Blue Ensign

Thanks Dave, mine is the same, so that is a relief, just had a moment of doubt. The scale figure is 35mm = to a height of 5'6" which is appropriate. 4548 Still I needed to cut out the figure and the inboard plan to convince myself. Not too far out I'm relieved to say.🙂 B.E.

Well done Thunder, great job. 👏 B. E.

Thanks Dave, can you tell me what the height is midships between the deck and capping rail top on your model? I’ve been looking at the scale figure on the plan and the capping rail top on my Cheerful appears higher in relation to a 1:48 scale figure but I can’t figure out why. 🤔 B.E.

Looks a fine kit Steve, one thing you won’t need is the Union Flag at the main masthead. 😊 B.E.

Post 49 Margin for error? In accordance with the plan the Margin plank is fitted in three sections joined by scarph joints. The short sections between the stern frames were fitted first using 3/64" x 1/4" strip. There seems to be a little variation for the positioning of the scarphs between the supplied plan and the build instructions. The plan shows quite a short Bow section whereas Chuck has it extending aft past the second port in his build, which seems to me a more manageable arrangement. I am using 3/64" x 1/4" strip for the aft section of the margin, heat bent and with the scarph then cut with a No 11 scalpel. I have terminated this section just past the third port from aft. The more tricky bow section was cut from 3/64" sheet using a card template. 4133 With the Bow and stern sections temporarily in place a card template can be marked with the scarphs for the centre section which is then cut out from the 3/64" sheet. 4134 Took quite a bit of time faffing around with these sections. 4156 4159 On reflection I suppose I could have used a simpler form of scarph The final piece is the Waterway for which 1/32" (0.8mm) square stock is called for, rounded on the top edge. This seems incredibly small, at full scale a mere 1 1/2" 4534 Try as I might I couldn't get consistent widths cut from a 1/32" sheet, at the required lengths, so I took the easy way out and ordered some 1/32" square stock from Chuck. 4531 My main concern with fitting the Waterway was not to get glue over the painted Spirketing, so I used a fine smear of glue and had water available to immediately clean any excess. 4532 A growing collection of mini delights. This is a convenient point to drill the holes to take the bulwark eye and ring bolts, before the deck gets cluttered. 4508 Taking the positions from the plan a simple hole guide jig is used to mark the bulwark. In practice the upper gun tackle eye bolts are 7mm above the spirketing and 2mm in from the port edge. The Breeching rope ring bolts are 2mm above the spirketing and 2.5mm in from the port edge. 4528 Time now to think about the decking. B.E. 11/11/2018

Hi Dave, I admire you're resilience in scratching those gun carriages.👍 Re the Swivel posts; I think 3/16" square stuff is too heavy, but 1/8" looks about right, and fits on the capping rails as a timber head extension quite well. The 1:24 scale drawings of the swivel posts in The Cutter Alert book, has them at 6.36" which is a tad over 1/8" at our scale. I think I will go with 1/8" square stuff. Thanks Martin, I have decided to go with the Red version. No plagiarism on here Martin, just a mutual development of ideas to advance our obsession.☺️ Thank you Thomas, I do enjoy playing with the fittings, far more than the basic construction stuff. Cheers, B.E.

Very nice result Tomek, such a lot of fine detail in a model so small. Well done.🙂 B.E.

I would agree Steve the kit supplied blocks for the bijou carronades are over scale. I used 2mm versions from the now defunct JB Models, today I would use Syren versions. I think the rigging line sizes for the guns also needs looking at, there does need to be a visible difference between the side tackle lines and the breaching rope. 0.1mm dia line for the tackles is more than enough. Line isn’t the only issue when rigging these guns, getting tiny seizings is also problematic. I cheated on my build using fine wire and frapping to try and get a scale appearance. One thing I find with many kits is that the mast and yards are too heavy for the scale and could do with fining down somewhat. Regards, B.E.

Post 48 A test Carronade I am assembling one Carronade at this stage to use as a test item for Gunport fit etc; and develop my assembly technique. Cheerful was armed with ten 12 pounder carronades and two 4 pounder long guns. The carronades as supplied for the kit have a somewhat unusual appearance sitting on carriages with trucks, and with trunnions to secure the barrels. This is at a time when slide beds were more common for Carronades, fitted with iron retaining hoops below the barrel, and Breeching rings above the cascable. There were however many variations to how these guns were configured, and Chuck's carronades which are a thing of beauty, will do very nicely. 4313a This arrangement from the NMM is very close to Chuck's version, but with the addition of the Breeching Ring atop the cascable. I think a simple jig is essential for this process, in fact assembly jigs in general are an excellent idea, I used many such devices on my Pegasus build. 4313 Even with a jig these are tricky little things to set up right. I take the between axles measurements from the plan and transfer to the jig. Small strips of scrap Boxwood secure the axles in place, and the finished item looks remarkably like Chuck's little jig. 4325 The axles are rounded at each end to take the Trucks before fitting in the jig for the attachment of the transom on the front axle, and the Bolster on the rear axle. 4322 One point to note is that the Transom above the front axle is not vertical but should lean back slightly. 4316 I used some 0.7mm ø wire, chemically blackened to represent the iron connecting bar which ties the side brackets and supports the carriage bed. 4331 I added Truck keys using 0.4mmø brass tubing flattened at one end to retain the trucks on their axles. These were then chemically blackened after trimming. 0.45mm ø holes were drilled thro' the axles to take the key. I will finish this off at some point but for the present it will suffice, and I need to concentrate on the decking next. B.E 05/11/2018

Thank you Thomas, Martin, and Paul. 🙂 Post 47 Faffing with fittings part 3. The final deck fitting in this section is the Skylight. I have Chuck's little mini kit which I assembled . The version with the coaming around it doesn't appeal to me, something to do with proportion of the coamings in relation to the skylight I think. 4268 I seem to be in a constant state of indecision whether to paint or varnish the inboard fittings but I eventually decided to varnish the kit Skylight with the window frames painted using Admiralty Paints Light Ivory. I comforted myself with the thought that I can always arrange for another little skylight to wing its way across the pond if I don't like it. While waiting for a further timber supply to complete the margin planks I carried on and made a scratch version from Boxwood sheet. 4204 4201 The frame completed. 4265 I decided to paint this one red but leave the lights framing natural. 4207 There wasn't that much extra effort involved in scratching the Skylight compared to assembling the delicate little kit. 4278 4279 4285 The deck covering below the Skylight shows sufficiently to make the effort worthwhile. 4282 To my eye the scratch version has slightly more 'presence' on the deck compared to the kit version, sweet as it is, and no doubt true to scale. B.E. 02/11/2018

I just love everything about your model Thomas. B.E.

Those close-up shots so clearly show the purity of your work Jason, beautiful finish. B.E.

Thank you Nils, Jason, and Dave 🙂 @ Jason - My inclination is to leave the deck fittings natural, I rather like the look Bob achieved on his Cheerful build, but we shall see once the deck is down. @ Dave - Good result with your gratings Dave, always a tricky business cutting into gratings they are so delicate. Fortunately my gratings are not glued to the coamings so I will be able to remove them for 'surgery'. Now I've established a working hinge method I think I could improve on it, but it will involve getting my silver soldering kit out - a little exercise for a wet afternoon perhaps. Regards, B.E.

Post 46 Faffing with fittings part 2. I now turn my attention to the Companionway. This is an interesting little project particularly when choosing to try and make the doors open and the lid hinge back to reveal something of the interior. 3588 A jig was necessary to keep the sections square and in place during gluing. For construction I used 1/32" x 3/16" strips for the boarding, and 5/32" strips for the coamings. 3725 Internal framing was added to stiffen the construction. The rear half of the lid was glued in place and the forward half hinged to fold back. 3727 It proved a testy business to make tiny hinges that would both work and have at least a nod towards looking like the real thing. Of course all of this makes not one jot of real difference to the model, but I derive a small personal pleasure from it, even if just knowing it's there. ☺️ 3743 Completing the arrangement also required a ladder down to the lower deck. 3705 3706 3758 Mildly curious why the access doors are facing aft, most of the examples I've seen they are either facing forward or to Starboard. 3751 3752 I haven't made my mind up yet whether to paint or poly wipe so for the present I will leave it in its bare wood state. Either way it will need some final finishing before gluing into place. Onto the Skylight. B.E. 17/10/2018

Hi Martin, the answer is neither.☺️ The Flue was constructed using 0.6mm Boxwood strip, edge glued, and then covered with a very fine 0.1mm 'Lead' foil to represent a metal finish. I would have otherwise used thin brass, chemically blackened, but this method saved me some fiddly silver soldering. Thanks Dave, this feature is indeed shown on the contemporary cutter models and plans shown in The Naval Cutter Alert book by Peter Goodwin. I will include the cut outs on my model as I like to rig the anchor cables along the deck. Regards, B.E.

Cheers Guys for the 'likes' and comments. Post 45 Faffing with fittings. A while ago I decided that the Holly decking planks I had originally ordered were just too pale for my taste, so I ordered replacement Boxwood strips. Pity I forgot to include a sheet of 3/64 thick stuff in the order to cut out the bow area of the Margin planks. I have put a further supplementary order for some 3/64" Boxwood sheet and strip, but in the meantime I will have a go at the gratings. Chuck's little gratings kits work a treat, and result in a nicely curved fine grating that reflects the shape of the originals. Starting with the Bread Room scuttle I continued to complete the set of three. Gratings are one thing, the coamings and head ledges entirely another. These are scratch built from 3/32" sheet. The only size reference for the height of the coamings is on the plan I worked on a 6mm depth from the false deck. The Head ledges I made slightly higher to allow for forming the round. 4436 As suggested by Chuck I formed the frame around the grating to get a good fit. Once formed I inserted 1/16" strip around the inside to support the grating. This also has the effect of stiffening up the fame and reduces the risk of pulling it out of square. 4437 Even so during final finishing I glued a grating sized block to my jig board to hold the framing in place. 4446 Sanding the Head Ledges. 3584(2) The finished coamings sit 5mm above the false deck. 3554 Same procedure for the Fore Hatch. Galley Flue scuttle I cut the base from some 3/32" Castello sheet. From the plans I calculated a base 12 x 16mm. For the coamings I cut a 3.5mm width strip from a 1/16th thick sheet. I cut the hole for the flue out and boarded around it with some thin Boxwood planking. 3571 The Flue pipe was then added. 3579 3580 3584 3585 Next up the Companionway and the Skylight. B.E. 13/10/2018 ps. Thank you Chuck, received my 3/64" Boxwood sheet, and 1/4" wide strips for the margin planks this morning, - six days order to door, excellent service.👍

I so admire those who can create carvings, but my attempts on Pegasus ended in abject failure. The figures are so small and I simply couldn’t get down to size using either wood or fimo. By any stretch of imagination what resulted hardly represented classical figures of Greek mythology. I was saved by a Preiser set of 1:87 scale ‘Adam and Eve’ figures which I was able to convert into passable representations of Perseus(complete with Medusa’s head,) the Princess Andromeda, and Athena and Poseidon, all associated with the Gorgon legend. The decoration is of course all conjecture and even the decoration shown on the Admiralty plans is probably just artistic licence, I doubt the Navy Board would sanction such expense for a humble sixth rate. Still I look forward to admiring the work of those with more resolve than me.😊 B. E.

Beautifully constructed cabin Bob, and those overhead shots show her off the great advantage. 👍 B.E.

I like what you're doing Martin, and it will all come good in the end. I am a bit surprised that you couldn't find anything to simulate the window glass, Railway and Aircraft modellers tend to use these products regularly, but success in their application is another story.🙄 To my eye unglazed windows can look a bit dead, and even opaque ones look better than nothing. Wishing you joy in your post pre-retirement year.☺️ B.E.

Post 44 A milestone of sorts. The basic hull is now complete, which is not to say that I won't be fussing and fiddling with the paintwork for some time yet. 3149(2) I'm a lot happier now with how she's looking than a few weeks ago. 3161(2) On the other hand my assistant seems far more sniffy about progress. 3108 3109 3110 3113 3115 3121 Can't quite make my mind up whether to paint the fashion pieces black or leave them natural. 3122 3124 So after some ten months I can set the hull aside and start looking at the deck fittings. B.E. 07/10/2018

Thanks Jason and Dave, Those stern ports are a mystery, cutters were amongst the fastest vessels afloat and the need for stern guns doesn't seem great, but those models fitted with them do seem to have a continuous platform across the stern over the rudder head. I presume that any adjustment made to the windlass position is already reflected in the layout we have, I've certainly no intention of fiddling about with it at this stage 🙂 Yes I was referring to the hand winch Dave, - it fits between the jeer bitts 😉 I've plenty of time to fret about the gun positions, before I have to make a decision, but seeing something that doesn't really seem to fit is annoying. Perhaps I'll think about siting one on the Starboard side forward port only. Regarding the ships boat I think they were generally stowed on board unless action was imminent when they would be towed to allow more space to work the guns and reduce damage risk to the boat. I've looked at all the contemporary cutter models I could find online, some show the boat stowed on the port side of the deck which is a practical option; the deck space on the centre line of Cheerful would only allow for a boat of 10' 6" length. My own view is that a 14' - 18' cutter would be appropriate. I do rather fancy having a cutter on the cutter, we shall see 🤔 3093 I have obtained some swivels from RB Models in Poland, they are 20mm long which is spot on for scale for a 3' swivel gun. Cheers, B.E.

Thanks Dave, I read the discussion on Chuck's log about the seemingly awkward position of the Bow chaser long guns. Some contemporary models do show guns in that position, and there is a written note on the Cheerful plans concerning moving the windlass a little aft to accommodate the working of the guns, which gives credence to the use of those ports for bow chasers. There are several other puzzlements I have around the layout and fittings of Cheerful. As I mentioned in my previous post - why have stern chaser ports when the guns can't use them? No apparent provision for half pounder swivel guns, which I'm sure she would have. I think I will add four of these. Where would the ships boat be stowed - there is not enough room between the Jeer Bitts and the pumps for a centre line position even for a modest 16' cutter. There are always more questions than answers in the world of period ship modelling.🙄 Regards, B.E.

Thanks for looking in guys and for the 'likes' Post 43 Cap rails 2955 With the inboard painting of the bulwarks completed (at least for the moment) I turn my attention to the Capping rails. 2960 Starting with the tafferal rail I shaped to size from a card template, and cut out from some 1/16" sheet. 2962 The moulding strip was made in the same manner as the other mouldings, and some curve imparted to follow the line of the tafferal. 2978 Applying heat to form the curve removes a lot of the stress of holding in place during gluing. 2972 The completed rail in place. Turning to the rails along the bulwarks a card template was made and glued to a 1/16" boxwood sheet for cutting out. That in turn provided a template for the other side. Before gluing the rails to the bulwarks a final check on the level of the bulwark tops so the rail will sit flat. I decided to cut the rails in complete length each side rather than split them into sections, and I allowed myself a margin for error, but which also involved extra sanding down to finish. Some toll taken on the inboard painting. 2993(2) To reduce the width down to finished size I used a combination of scalpel blades and sanding sticks. 3054 The Hawse plates and the final upper moulding strips at the bow were added. 3063 I decided to drill the holes for the Bowsprit and anchor cables before I added the edging moulding to the cap rail. The hole is not at present the full size and final enlargement will be done later. 3049 3052 Final action of this section, to add the fancy moulding along the cap rail edge. B.E. 05/10/2018.

Congratulations Jack, that is a very fine model, well done. 🙂 B.E.

Cheers Guys, @ Dowmer - Well I had planked it but fortunately they were only short lengths, and pva is quite easily removed with the careful application of water. @ Martin - No tenons, and a little over size for this scale, but it does make for a decent weight. @ Lou - I borrowed them from the Galley, we use two weight systems over here and they are representatives of both imperial and metric systems. 🙂 @ Ferit - Thank you Ferit, Chuck has excelled with this model altho' there are always questions around boats of this era.😉 Post 42 Port lids - an interesting exercise. As a small diversion I turn my attention to the stern port lids. 2730 The first very necessary job is to make a card template onto which the plank lines can be marked. 2728 Three boards are glued together onto which the template is transferred - then cut out and fine sanded to fit. Gunport lids of Warships of this period consisted of two layers of board. An inboard vertical layer fitted within the port area, and a horizontal layer which fitted into the port rabbet. 2907 This the approach I have taken, as shown on these reject lids. During the initial versions I noticed that the port side lid looked a tad smaller than the Starboard side. Much as I tried to ignore this it was sufficiently noticeable to irk my eye, and I couldn't let it go. 2881 Rectifying the matter entailed enlarging the rabbet on the port side, very carefully using a scalpel and micro chisel. A case of some earlier error coming back to haunt me. It took me three goes to get the lids right with the board lines matching those of the transom, and that fitted snugly within the rabbet. 2914 Fairly content with the end result. For the lid straps and hinges I used Chuck's little kit rather than thin brass strip which would entail a spot of silver soldering and blackening, an even more fiddly job that may have no better result. 2879 A bit of a test for my tired old eyes. To represent the bolt heads on the straps I use a spot of pva on a needle point. They were then painted with Admiralty Metal black paint. The 28 gauge wire indicated for the hull mount seemed very flimsy to me and I scouted around for something a little more robust, and slightly more authentic. An alternative came in the form of brass etched hammock crane arms left over from my Pegasus build. 2917 0.7mm ø brass tubing was ca'd into the ring and filed flush and a short length of the 28 gauge wire ca'd into the tube. 2918 This gave a solid right angle onto which to hang the strap rings. 2938 This is quite a strong arrangement but in fitting the lids to the transom the tiny tube sections attached to the laser board straps gave way several times much to my irritation. 2937 What started as small diversion turned out to be a time consuming and somewhat frustrating exercise in fiddliness, at least there are only two lids and not a full set along the broadside. Whilst on the subject of stern ports, I have puzzled just what are they for on Cheerful ? They are positioned far too high for any normal carriage gun to use. On some cutter models I have seen there is a platform, which in the case of Cheerful would also cover the area between the seats of ease, allowing a gun to be sited at the correct level. This is the arrangement shown on the deck plan of The Naval Cutter Alert by Peter Goodwin, described as 'platform deck over counter'. Time to move on.... B.E. 01/10/2018