Blue Ensign

I admire your perseverance Mike, what a challenge, but one you're obviously up to.
Well done.
 
B.E.

Thanks BE - it's been a learning experience for sure.  I'm curious to see what things are like when I start work on my 1/350 Shimakaze - I bet the PE will look huge in comparison to what I've been used to on this 1/700 model.

I admire your perseverance Mike, what a challenge, but one you're obviously up to.
Well done.
 
B.E.

I admire your perseverance Mike, what a challenge, but one you're obviously up to.
Well done.
 
B.E.

Building a 22’ Yawl.
 
I was pleased to see that Chris had extended his range of ships boats to cover almost everything that the builder of 1:64 scale 18thc ships could want.
The only possible exception is a Longboat.
 

Yawl as built by James Hatch.
I was instantly drawn to the Yawl, a boat type I have not built, and this mini kit looked too good to pass.
 

9953(2)
Here’s the makings for this mini kit.
The first thing I notice is the inclusion of all Pearwood for the  keel parts and planking and the much reduced thickness of the timbers to better reflect scale. The build board and sacrificial bulkheads are of PDF.
 
The usual etched gratings and bottom boards are similar to the old cutter kit, but as with that kit I don’t think I will use the  rudder covers.
A set of Pearwood oars are provided in addition to the brass etched versions. These are very fine but provide a good template to build up the looms.
 
 
A little history about Yawls.
 
This boat type was developed at Deal on the Kent coast and was traditionally clinker built. The Yawl became part of the Navy boat establishment in 1701 but its form developed over the succeeding years.
 
In terms of naval use, both clinker and carvel planked versions were in operation at various periods and concurrently during the 18th century, but the Navy had a preference for carvel-built boats, and Yawls built in Naval Dockyards took this form.
 
The strength and lightness of clinker boats were often favoured by ship Captains, but the drawback to Clinker built boats was difficulty of repair compared with carvel-built boats, and the Navy only issued carvel versions to ships destined for foreign service.
 
The kit represents a carvel version as built in a naval yard rather than a private yard where clinker would prevail
 
For this build I am going to follow the carvel route.
 
Looking ahead I have a fancy to mast and rig my version.
 
First steps.
 
The first thing that is instantly apparent with this kit is the fragility of the parts, very soft hands will be required at least in the early stages of the assembly.
 

9965
Even so, in the process of fitting the forward bulkheads and filler pieces, I managed with the slightest touch to snap off the upper part of the stem which contains the rabbet.
This is not a criticism of the kit which by its scale nature requires fine parts.
 

9968
So, first stages comes to a shuddering halt whilst I wait for the Aliphatic resin to hopefully secure the now re-attached stem head.
 

9967
However, until the boat is secured on its board I will live in fear of the Pearwood keel snapping.
 
 
B.E.
20/01/21
 
 

Post Nine
 
 
 
Faffing and fiddling to the finish line
 
 
The rudder is completed with straps and the tiller and can now be set in place.
 

9919(2)
I used thin black card for the purposes of the straps.
 
 
I decided to make the oars using Boxwood as the brass etched versions lacked the looms, and you can’t get away from the two-dimensional aspect of brass etch.
 

9943(2)
The kit supplies two sweet little etched grappling hooks, I silver soldered the arms rather than use ca which would have been detrimental to the blackening process.
 
The boat hook was fitted in a Boxwood handle rather than use the etched version.
 
The grapnel as provided by the kit lacks the benefit of a ring, easily rectified, which is needed to attach the classic Fisherman's Bend hitch for small anchors, where the line needs to pass twice thro' the ring.
 
Steel gives a grapnel rope circ for ships boats as 3"-3½"
I used .30mm ø line for the purpose.
 

9944(2)
The completed set.
 

9927(2)
Wipe-on-poly is used to enhance the natural colour of the timbers, I decided not to use paint on the model.
 

9928(2)
It was necessary to use Light oak wood stain on the keel, which would still have been the case had I used the supplied Pearwood.
 

9930(2)

9932(2)
An enjoyable little interlude to occupy myself during the Bathroom re-fit which looks to continue for a few days more.
 

9949
A better appreciation of the relative size of this bijou build, I think it will be a cutter for a cutter and join Alert in her display case.
 
As I finish this project Chris has issued his replacement, enhanced, 18’ cutter.
Having a Pearwood keel is a good improvement and the use of thinner 0.6mm strip is more scale appropriate. The build sequence is also more logical and I like the inclusion of Pearwood oars, something else I feel is preferable.
 
 
I have decided to rename this log as 18th c ships boats – 1:64 scale - Vanguard Models, as today I received another of Chris’s little gems, this time the 22’ Yawl.
 
 
 
This build will continue in this section.
 
 
B.E.
19/01/21

Post Eight


 
Sheer strakes, Gunwales and Washboards.


 
These terms can be a little confusing in relation to cutters.


 
David White- The Frigate Diana describes the upper strake as the Wash Strake and below this the Upper Strake. The Gun wale is shown as running inside the framing.


 
Peter Goodwin – The Cutter Alert describes the upper strake as the Gunwale (wash strake) and below this the sheer strake.


 
Brian Lavery – Arming and Fitting describes the upper strake as a thicker piece of timber known as the Gunwale, fitted with thole pins or rowlocks. After the mid-eighteenth century a removeable wash- strake was fitted on many boats, above the gunwale.


 
For the purposes of my build I will use the terms Gunwale and Wash strake.


 
Gunwale


9872
I used 0.7mm x 1.8mm ebony strip for the purpose, ca’d level with the top of the bulwark.
 
Wash-strake


 
These are likely to prove tricky to fit because there is little effectively to support them inboard.


9863(2)
The knees that fit to the thwarts should run up to the top of the Wash strake, which they don’t on my build unless they are fitted with the long end upwards which I did as I couldn’t face making replacements of these tiny items.

 

9864(2)
With this arrangement there will be support for the Wash-boards but before these are fitted it is necessary to consider the Rowlock positions.


 
The kit seems to indicate three sets of rowlocks serving the forward three thwarts. This would suggest that it is set up for double banked rowing, and the oar length would support this


There is a plan for an 18’ cutter in the Cutter Alert book showing this set up.


 
However, there are plans indicating offset rowlocks for 18’ cutters which would indicate a single bank arrangement.

There is a plan for an 18’ cutter in the Frigate Diana book (David White) which has this arrangement.


 
I am using 1.7mm x 0.7mm Boxwood strip for the wash strakes.

The strakes need to be heat bent to fit atop the bulwark without tension which will greatly assist a successful result.


 
The kit blurb suggests gluing strips of wood along the bulwark leaving 1mm gaps for the Rowlocks.


9880
My approach is to fit the strake as a whole which has the advantage of maintaining a better round to follow the hull.

I used spots of ca on the brackets and the strip to secure the strake.


9879(2)
A micro-saw is then used to cut the rowlocks. I use an Airwaves etched stainless steel saw blade that has incredibly fine teeth and fits into a Swann Morten scalpel blade.
Anything coarser would inevitably break the glue bond or the wood strip.


9887(2)
This finishes the basic construction, but the macro’s I took show up areas requiring further cleaning up before the final finish is applied.


 
B.E.

17/01/21

 
 

Great progress Glenn, I admire the standard of your workmanship.

I too had thoughts about the positioning of the seats of ease, but came to the conclusion that folk of the 18th/19th centuries were far less sensitive about matters lavatorial.😃


 
B.E.

Building a 22’ Yawl.
 
I was pleased to see that Chris had extended his range of ships boats to cover almost everything that the builder of 1:64 scale 18thc ships could want.
The only possible exception is a Longboat.
 

Yawl as built by James Hatch.
I was instantly drawn to the Yawl, a boat type I have not built, and this mini kit looked too good to pass.
 

9953(2)
Here’s the makings for this mini kit.
The first thing I notice is the inclusion of all Pearwood for the  keel parts and planking and the much reduced thickness of the timbers to better reflect scale. The build board and sacrificial bulkheads are of PDF.
 
The usual etched gratings and bottom boards are similar to the old cutter kit, but as with that kit I don’t think I will use the  rudder covers.
A set of Pearwood oars are provided in addition to the brass etched versions. These are very fine but provide a good template to build up the looms.
 
 
A little history about Yawls.
 
This boat type was developed at Deal on the Kent coast and was traditionally clinker built. The Yawl became part of the Navy boat establishment in 1701 but its form developed over the succeeding years.
 
In terms of naval use, both clinker and carvel planked versions were in operation at various periods and concurrently during the 18th century, but the Navy had a preference for carvel-built boats, and Yawls built in Naval Dockyards took this form.
 
The strength and lightness of clinker boats were often favoured by ship Captains, but the drawback to Clinker built boats was difficulty of repair compared with carvel-built boats, and the Navy only issued carvel versions to ships destined for foreign service.
 
The kit represents a carvel version as built in a naval yard rather than a private yard where clinker would prevail
 
For this build I am going to follow the carvel route.
 
Looking ahead I have a fancy to mast and rig my version.
 
First steps.
 
The first thing that is instantly apparent with this kit is the fragility of the parts, very soft hands will be required at least in the early stages of the assembly.
 

9965
Even so, in the process of fitting the forward bulkheads and filler pieces, I managed with the slightest touch to snap off the upper part of the stem which contains the rabbet.
This is not a criticism of the kit which by its scale nature requires fine parts.
 

9968
So, first stages comes to a shuddering halt whilst I wait for the Aliphatic resin to hopefully secure the now re-attached stem head.
 

9967
However, until the boat is secured on its board I will live in fear of the Pearwood keel snapping.
 
 
B.E.
20/01/21
 
 

Building a 22’ Yawl.
 
I was pleased to see that Chris had extended his range of ships boats to cover almost everything that the builder of 1:64 scale 18thc ships could want.
The only possible exception is a Longboat.
 

Yawl as built by James Hatch.
I was instantly drawn to the Yawl, a boat type I have not built, and this mini kit looked too good to pass.
 

9953(2)
Here’s the makings for this mini kit.
The first thing I notice is the inclusion of all Pearwood for the  keel parts and planking and the much reduced thickness of the timbers to better reflect scale. The build board and sacrificial bulkheads are of PDF.
 
The usual etched gratings and bottom boards are similar to the old cutter kit, but as with that kit I don’t think I will use the  rudder covers.
A set of Pearwood oars are provided in addition to the brass etched versions. These are very fine but provide a good template to build up the looms.
 
 
A little history about Yawls.
 
This boat type was developed at Deal on the Kent coast and was traditionally clinker built. The Yawl became part of the Navy boat establishment in 1701 but its form developed over the succeeding years.
 
In terms of naval use, both clinker and carvel planked versions were in operation at various periods and concurrently during the 18th century, but the Navy had a preference for carvel-built boats, and Yawls built in Naval Dockyards took this form.
 
The strength and lightness of clinker boats were often favoured by ship Captains, but the drawback to Clinker built boats was difficulty of repair compared with carvel-built boats, and the Navy only issued carvel versions to ships destined for foreign service.
 
The kit represents a carvel version as built in a naval yard rather than a private yard where clinker would prevail
 
For this build I am going to follow the carvel route.
 
Looking ahead I have a fancy to mast and rig my version.
 
First steps.
 
The first thing that is instantly apparent with this kit is the fragility of the parts, very soft hands will be required at least in the early stages of the assembly.
 

9965
Even so, in the process of fitting the forward bulkheads and filler pieces, I managed with the slightest touch to snap off the upper part of the stem which contains the rabbet.
This is not a criticism of the kit which by its scale nature requires fine parts.
 

9968
So, first stages comes to a shuddering halt whilst I wait for the Aliphatic resin to hopefully secure the now re-attached stem head.
 

9967
However, until the boat is secured on its board I will live in fear of the Pearwood keel snapping.
 
 
B.E.
20/01/21
 
 

Hi Tim,
 
The etched saw blades seem to be  available from  a few sources on the net if you google them.
I got mine from here 
https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/AEM008
 
There is also a youtube review comparing the airwaves with Tamiya, I've not tried the Tamiya version
 
 
I find them most useful for cross grain cutting on thin timber strips.
 
B.E.

An 18ft cutter- a little filler between projects.
 
 
One can always find a use for a ships boat and this 1:64 scale offering by Chris Watton of Vanguard models, fits the bill.
 

As I’m in-between builds I thought this bijou kit would fill a few hours, and according to Mrs W stop me over fixating on the Bathroom conversion due to start next Monday.
 
I am well served with ships boats in my shipyard.
 

This 1:48 scale Model shipways offering of a Longboat.
A fine little kit in my opinion, along with the Pinnace kit at 1:24.
 
 
And this scratched 1:64 scale Boxwood version.
 

055
This was made for my Pegasus build using down sized plans from the Model shipways 1:48 scale Longboat kit.
 
 
There are differences between Longboats and cutters, in terms of size and form, a major difference being that cutters were often Lapstraked rather than carvel built.
 
I think Chris originally designed it as an accessory for his Speedy/Flirt kits, so I’ve included it in the 1751-1800 era section, but this style of boat would suit many eras.
 
When I bought this kit I didn’t really have anything specific in mind but it could be used as a boat for Alert, or equally for a  large fishing boat, depending how it is dressed.
 
The mini kit comes with Pearwood planking, brass etched and Pearwood fittings.
 

9645
Not much to it is there, but that doesn’t mean it will be easy.
 

9639
The frames slot into a building board and over this the hull is planked.
 

9643(2)
One of the bow planking patterns that require bevelling before fitting. These are tiny pieces to hold, I used a Tool maker’s clamp.
 

9650(2)
If you don’t have one they are a worthwhile addition to your toolbox.
 
 
So with the jig/frames set up I need to decide whether to go off piste and Lapstrake her in Boxwood, or use the nice little Pearwood strips provided, and follow the carvel route.
 
 
B.E.
02/01/2021

18th century bling - a fine job Rusty.
 
B.E.

Hi Tim,
 
The etched saw blades seem to be  available from  a few sources on the net if you google them.
I got mine from here 
https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/AEM008
 
There is also a youtube review comparing the airwaves with Tamiya, I've not tried the Tamiya version
 
 
I find them most useful for cross grain cutting on thin timber strips.
 
B.E.

Hi Tim,
 
The etched saw blades seem to be  available from  a few sources on the net if you google them.
I got mine from here 
https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/AEM008
 
There is also a youtube review comparing the airwaves with Tamiya, I've not tried the Tamiya version
 
 
I find them most useful for cross grain cutting on thin timber strips.
 
B.E.

I’m continuing to do mini-projects in no particular order - following the ‘why don’t I do that next’ plan. So:
 
Mounting the rudder

 
When I first looked at the Pintles and Gudgeons mini-kit I wondered what do you do with those. Turns out it’s another brilliant design and a simple way for attaching the rudder. Simple in concept anyway.
 

 
The first step was to paint the gudgeons Ironwood Black then dust them and the straps with weathering powder, because you know you can never do enough weather powdering. Attaching to the rudder itself was straight forward, I left the pintles long initially then trimmed it back after some test fitting.
 

 
Then came the more challenging part, attaching the gudgeons to the hull in the right place to fit the rudder and in line. After some careful measuring and marking I used a piece of brass wire to make sure they were aligned. There isn’t any forgiveness here, everything has to be in the right place.
 
I encountered a problem, I couldn’t get the glue to adhere to the hull, after several frustrating attempts I determined that glue sticking to wood with too many coats of WOP doesn’t work - I simply had let it get it too thick on the stern post. I roughed up the wood with some 220 grit, and after that no problem. I of course knew this, but sometimes in the thick of it you just want the wood to shut up and do what you tell it to do - the wood laughs. I also shouldn’t do these things at night, or maybe not at night after drinking scotch, or maybe just not after drinking scotch.
 

 
Anyway. The straps and bolts are added. I liked how drilling holes as marked on the strap, inserting wire a little long to glue it in and then cutting it near flush made for nice bolts after touching with Ironwood Black (a little touch up there to do on the hull too, oops).
 

 

 
And there you have it, my ship can now be steered should it find itself adrift in the ocean somewhere. I still think I’m going to remake the tiller, we’ll see, it’s just hanging there loose for the photo. So with that done the rudder is removed and put on the shelf to be permanently installed later, bye rudder.
 
The Catheads

 
Then, since it can be steered I figured I better be able to anchor it, so do the catheads next. That meant it was time to play with the mill again and pretend I know what I’m doing. Following the monograph I constructed the catheads in two parts. First the upright, which to fit tight against the bulwark had to be notched for the spirketting and again for the waterway. I cut both notches with the mill. While it takes the unskilled like me a bit of work and trial effort to get the measurements right, the mill cut nice and clean once I had it correct (actually it cut nice and clean when I had it wrong too). I bought a car engine feeler gauge, took it apart and used the thinest one to set a good zero for between the bit and the wood for the X,Y,Z axis. This proved pretty handy in getting a consistent starting point for the cuts.
 

 
It was fortunate I read the monograph first (not that fortunate as I always do). Before starting on the catheads, the forward pin rail has to be made and installed. That has to be sized carefully so that the cathead doesn’t impede the flow of the anchor rope through the hawse hole or restrict the gun tackle for the forward chase port, there isn’t that much room between the two. I had to do a little fine tuning on the pin rail not related to the cathead as shown here.
 

 

 
Next up is getting the correct angle on the upper piece of the cathead, hint, it’s not 90 degrees. There needs to be some upward angle to it, while also accounting for the bit of lean of the upright on the bulwarks. After some experimenting I determined 85 degrees was best (or 95 degrees depending on how you look at it). Since the Byrnes gauges don’t do notch anything less than 15 I set the angle on the sander for a smooth edge using a digital protractor. Then to get a good feel for it I set the top piece on for a look. I decided this made a great ship's crane and installed it just like shown here. Well, it did cross my mind for a second. When I know I’m going to need multiple equal sized pieces, plus several more for testing I cut a properly sized long length and cut everything from it, hence the long piece shown.
 

 
Then its back to the mill to cut the sheaves into the top piece. This is so incredibly easier and better than doing it by hand with a blade as I’ve always had to do in the past. Just cut the slots a 1.5 mm deep and drill all the way through on both ends. I added flush-cut 24 gauge wire to either side later but it doesn’t go all the way through and is just for simulation.
 

 
This little Veritas triangle, a new tool, has been coming in handy a lot for deck work, here to make sure the cathead is perpendicular to the deck.
 

 

 
Some filing at the leading edge, paint, a couple of cleats, and I have catheads. No anchors yet so the ship is still drifting, but at least they have someplace to attach one, or maybe attach Fred, their fellow crewman who drank all the grog, and just let him hang there a while. BTW, they are straight, the photo is a warped perspective due to the angle. 
 
The Seats of Ease
I struggled with the concept of this a bit. These seats are such a prominent feature of the deck. I have this vision of two crew members availing themselves of the seats, just a few feet from the helmsman. There is no cover on them (I almost added one) so I wonder, given the prevailing wind on a sailing ship is generally from either rear quarter, if the helmsman - often the captain on a ship this size - was constantly bombarded by the smell. So I almost turned them into lockers and let the crew poop over the rail. In the end I decided to stay true to Chuck’s design and accepted they’d be a topic for conversation once the ship was finished. So I began to build my two onboard outhouses with apologies to the helmsman…courtesy flush dude (which would be a bucket of water I suppose).
 

 
It seems simple, just glue together three pieces of wood, the top, one side, and the front. The thing is, again, there are a lot of angles and curves involved - plus you are making two and the two have to be both identical, level and even in  height with the spirketting since that forms the outboard side, and the width of the inboard stern frames. Here’s hoping I installed all of those equal on both sides so long ago. I started by cutting card templates (as Chuck suggests) - its kinda essential here to get the right fit. I’m sure there is a geometric name for the shape of the top, let’s just say it doesn’t remotely resemble a rectangle. I also cut a long strip 9mm wide from 1\32 sheet so that the front and sides for both seats came from the same piece of wood.
 

 
This photo is from later in the instruction. I first did the sides since everything else is based on them. The challenge is cutting the curve of the counter on the bottom, having both end up the same height and level, be the same length coming forward, and the leading edge perpendicular to the deck…no problem…who doesn’t love geometry.
 

 
And what do you know on the first try both sides are level…or maybe not on the first try…
 

 
After cutting the fronts - with the outboard side beveled to fit snug to the bulwarks, it was on to the top. There is no substitute for card templates here. I marked the measurements, tested it and remarked until I had the varied lengths on the four sides required for it to fit, the angle of the hypotenuse or something like that. I used the cross cutting table on my Byrnes saw to get precise cuts on two of the sides, there is likely some way to do it with the saw, but I opted to cut the remaining two sides with my heavy steel rule and #11 blade. It’s possible I didn’t get all this right on the first try, card stock or not.
 

 
With the pieces cut and only the sides glued in I test fitted everything, and found it’s all level and equal sized, how’d that happen.
 

 
The last step before mounting and painting is the ease part of the seat, cutting the hole, which after all the work to get two fitted tops I didn’t want to screw up. So I went slow with a small pilot hole, then a bigger one, then a round needle file, then a larger file marked with a sharpie to finish at a 4mm hole, and finally an ultra fine sanding stick to smooth it out.
 

 
I added two large cleats and 4 smaller ones then painted it by brush with thin coats of my favorite RED (again some iPhone camera distortion on the angles). The cleats come from Syren, available in multiple sizes. I had to remove the laser char (it would show through the red paint) and shape them a bit. I used the stem of a standard eyelet to pin them to the bulwark so they can take rope tension later. I also added the horse, created from 24 gauge wire. I used the eyelet portion, cutting off the stem flush to the circle, to accent the horse either side, painted it Ironwood Black and weathered it to finish off the stern - except the knees and boom crutches which are up next…maybe…
 
Pin rails and cleats

 
I finished up this phase by adding the bulwark pin rails along with the rest of the cleats noted on the plans. Turned out to be a pretty tight fit for the cleat nearest the ladder. I’m glad I checked that, I had to give it a little extra turn to allow the ladder and gun tackle to fit with room for the future lines shown on the rigging plan. It’s generally a good idea to take a look around at what might happen or be added later to make sure nothing gets in the way of something else. That was evident here and especially evident with the catheads.
 
As I noted I’ve been turning pages in the monograph and doing what I felt like doing next - at this phase, at least so far nothing has to be sequential, though that will change soon. Thanks everyone for the likes and for stopping by. I better go check to make sure the crew didn’t actually drown Fred.
 

You're  making good progress Eric , this is not an easy build, but there is a deal of satisfaction to be had from its completion.
The Pinnace kit makes a great looking model and I think you will  be pleased with the end result.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Post Nine
 
 
 
Faffing and fiddling to the finish line
 
 
The rudder is completed with straps and the tiller and can now be set in place.
 

9919(2)
I used thin black card for the purposes of the straps.
 
 
I decided to make the oars using Boxwood as the brass etched versions lacked the looms, and you can’t get away from the two-dimensional aspect of brass etch.
 

9943(2)
The kit supplies two sweet little etched grappling hooks, I silver soldered the arms rather than use ca which would have been detrimental to the blackening process.
 
The boat hook was fitted in a Boxwood handle rather than use the etched version.
 
The grapnel as provided by the kit lacks the benefit of a ring, easily rectified, which is needed to attach the classic Fisherman's Bend hitch for small anchors, where the line needs to pass twice thro' the ring.
 
Steel gives a grapnel rope circ for ships boats as 3"-3½"
I used .30mm ø line for the purpose.
 

9944(2)
The completed set.
 

9927(2)
Wipe-on-poly is used to enhance the natural colour of the timbers, I decided not to use paint on the model.
 

9928(2)
It was necessary to use Light oak wood stain on the keel, which would still have been the case had I used the supplied Pearwood.
 

9930(2)

9932(2)
An enjoyable little interlude to occupy myself during the Bathroom re-fit which looks to continue for a few days more.
 

9949
A better appreciation of the relative size of this bijou build, I think it will be a cutter for a cutter and join Alert in her display case.
 
As I finish this project Chris has issued his replacement, enhanced, 18’ cutter.
Having a Pearwood keel is a good improvement and the use of thinner 0.6mm strip is more scale appropriate. The build sequence is also more logical and I like the inclusion of Pearwood oars, something else I feel is preferable.
 
 
I have decided to rename this log as 18th c ships boats – 1:64 scale - Vanguard Models, as today I received another of Chris’s little gems, this time the 22’ Yawl.
 
 
 
This build will continue in this section.
 
 
B.E.
19/01/21

Hi Chris,
The new cutter looks a big improvement on the original, I like the inclusion of the Pearwood keel, and thinner planking, also the inclusion of the wooden oars.
 
Fitting the wash strake as part of the normal planking before the Rowlocks are cut is a much better approach.
 
The text at Instruction 28 needs amending from anchor to Rowlock.
 
I look forward to making your Yawl mini kit which should be arriving today.
 
 
Cheers,
 
 
B.E.

Hi Chris,
The new cutter looks a big improvement on the original, I like the inclusion of the Pearwood keel, and thinner planking, also the inclusion of the wooden oars.
 
Fitting the wash strake as part of the normal planking before the Rowlocks are cut is a much better approach.
 
The text at Instruction 28 needs amending from anchor to Rowlock.
 
I look forward to making your Yawl mini kit which should be arriving today.
 
 
Cheers,
 
 
B.E.

Post Nine
 
 
 
Faffing and fiddling to the finish line
 
 
The rudder is completed with straps and the tiller and can now be set in place.
 

9919(2)
I used thin black card for the purposes of the straps.
 
 
I decided to make the oars using Boxwood as the brass etched versions lacked the looms, and you can’t get away from the two-dimensional aspect of brass etch.
 

9943(2)
The kit supplies two sweet little etched grappling hooks, I silver soldered the arms rather than use ca which would have been detrimental to the blackening process.
 
The boat hook was fitted in a Boxwood handle rather than use the etched version.
 
The grapnel as provided by the kit lacks the benefit of a ring, easily rectified, which is needed to attach the classic Fisherman's Bend hitch for small anchors, where the line needs to pass twice thro' the ring.
 
Steel gives a grapnel rope circ for ships boats as 3"-3½"
I used .30mm ø line for the purpose.
 

9944(2)
The completed set.
 

9927(2)
Wipe-on-poly is used to enhance the natural colour of the timbers, I decided not to use paint on the model.
 

9928(2)
It was necessary to use Light oak wood stain on the keel, which would still have been the case had I used the supplied Pearwood.
 

9930(2)

9932(2)
An enjoyable little interlude to occupy myself during the Bathroom re-fit which looks to continue for a few days more.
 

9949
A better appreciation of the relative size of this bijou build, I think it will be a cutter for a cutter and join Alert in her display case.
 
As I finish this project Chris has issued his replacement, enhanced, 18’ cutter.
Having a Pearwood keel is a good improvement and the use of thinner 0.6mm strip is more scale appropriate. The build sequence is also more logical and I like the inclusion of Pearwood oars, something else I feel is preferable.
 
 
I have decided to rename this log as 18th c ships boats – 1:64 scale - Vanguard Models, as today I received another of Chris’s little gems, this time the 22’ Yawl.
 
 
 
This build will continue in this section.
 
 
B.E.
19/01/21

Post Nine
 
 
 
Faffing and fiddling to the finish line
 
 
The rudder is completed with straps and the tiller and can now be set in place.
 

9919(2)
I used thin black card for the purposes of the straps.
 
 
I decided to make the oars using Boxwood as the brass etched versions lacked the looms, and you can’t get away from the two-dimensional aspect of brass etch.
 

9943(2)
The kit supplies two sweet little etched grappling hooks, I silver soldered the arms rather than use ca which would have been detrimental to the blackening process.
 
The boat hook was fitted in a Boxwood handle rather than use the etched version.
 
The grapnel as provided by the kit lacks the benefit of a ring, easily rectified, which is needed to attach the classic Fisherman's Bend hitch for small anchors, where the line needs to pass twice thro' the ring.
 
Steel gives a grapnel rope circ for ships boats as 3"-3½"
I used .30mm ø line for the purpose.
 

9944(2)
The completed set.
 

9927(2)
Wipe-on-poly is used to enhance the natural colour of the timbers, I decided not to use paint on the model.
 

9928(2)
It was necessary to use Light oak wood stain on the keel, which would still have been the case had I used the supplied Pearwood.
 

9930(2)

9932(2)
An enjoyable little interlude to occupy myself during the Bathroom re-fit which looks to continue for a few days more.
 

9949
A better appreciation of the relative size of this bijou build, I think it will be a cutter for a cutter and join Alert in her display case.
 
As I finish this project Chris has issued his replacement, enhanced, 18’ cutter.
Having a Pearwood keel is a good improvement and the use of thinner 0.6mm strip is more scale appropriate. The build sequence is also more logical and I like the inclusion of Pearwood oars, something else I feel is preferable.
 
 
I have decided to rename this log as 18th c ships boats – 1:64 scale - Vanguard Models, as today I received another of Chris’s little gems, this time the 22’ Yawl.
 
 
 
This build will continue in this section.
 
 
B.E.
19/01/21

Post Nine
 
 
 
Faffing and fiddling to the finish line
 
 
The rudder is completed with straps and the tiller and can now be set in place.
 

9919(2)
I used thin black card for the purposes of the straps.
 
 
I decided to make the oars using Boxwood as the brass etched versions lacked the looms, and you can’t get away from the two-dimensional aspect of brass etch.
 

9943(2)
The kit supplies two sweet little etched grappling hooks, I silver soldered the arms rather than use ca which would have been detrimental to the blackening process.
 
The boat hook was fitted in a Boxwood handle rather than use the etched version.
 
The grapnel as provided by the kit lacks the benefit of a ring, easily rectified, which is needed to attach the classic Fisherman's Bend hitch for small anchors, where the line needs to pass twice thro' the ring.
 
Steel gives a grapnel rope circ for ships boats as 3"-3½"
I used .30mm ø line for the purpose.
 

9944(2)
The completed set.
 

9927(2)
Wipe-on-poly is used to enhance the natural colour of the timbers, I decided not to use paint on the model.
 

9928(2)
It was necessary to use Light oak wood stain on the keel, which would still have been the case had I used the supplied Pearwood.
 

9930(2)

9932(2)
An enjoyable little interlude to occupy myself during the Bathroom re-fit which looks to continue for a few days more.
 

9949
A better appreciation of the relative size of this bijou build, I think it will be a cutter for a cutter and join Alert in her display case.
 
As I finish this project Chris has issued his replacement, enhanced, 18’ cutter.
Having a Pearwood keel is a good improvement and the use of thinner 0.6mm strip is more scale appropriate. The build sequence is also more logical and I like the inclusion of Pearwood oars, something else I feel is preferable.
 
 
I have decided to rename this log as 18th c ships boats – 1:64 scale - Vanguard Models, as today I received another of Chris’s little gems, this time the 22’ Yawl.
 
 
 
This build will continue in this section.
 
 
B.E.
19/01/21

Post Nine
 
 
 
Faffing and fiddling to the finish line
 
 
The rudder is completed with straps and the tiller and can now be set in place.
 

9919(2)
I used thin black card for the purposes of the straps.
 
 
I decided to make the oars using Boxwood as the brass etched versions lacked the looms, and you can’t get away from the two-dimensional aspect of brass etch.
 

9943(2)
The kit supplies two sweet little etched grappling hooks, I silver soldered the arms rather than use ca which would have been detrimental to the blackening process.
 
The boat hook was fitted in a Boxwood handle rather than use the etched version.
 
The grapnel as provided by the kit lacks the benefit of a ring, easily rectified, which is needed to attach the classic Fisherman's Bend hitch for small anchors, where the line needs to pass twice thro' the ring.
 
Steel gives a grapnel rope circ for ships boats as 3"-3½"
I used .30mm ø line for the purpose.
 

9944(2)
The completed set.
 

9927(2)
Wipe-on-poly is used to enhance the natural colour of the timbers, I decided not to use paint on the model.
 

9928(2)
It was necessary to use Light oak wood stain on the keel, which would still have been the case had I used the supplied Pearwood.
 

9930(2)

9932(2)
An enjoyable little interlude to occupy myself during the Bathroom re-fit which looks to continue for a few days more.
 

9949
A better appreciation of the relative size of this bijou build, I think it will be a cutter for a cutter and join Alert in her display case.
 
As I finish this project Chris has issued his replacement, enhanced, 18’ cutter.
Having a Pearwood keel is a good improvement and the use of thinner 0.6mm strip is more scale appropriate. The build sequence is also more logical and I like the inclusion of Pearwood oars, something else I feel is preferable.
 
 
I have decided to rename this log as 18th c ships boats – 1:64 scale - Vanguard Models, as today I received another of Chris’s little gems, this time the 22’ Yawl.
 
 
 
This build will continue in this section.
 
 
B.E.
19/01/21

Post Nine
 
 
 
Faffing and fiddling to the finish line
 
 
The rudder is completed with straps and the tiller and can now be set in place.
 

9919(2)
I used thin black card for the purposes of the straps.
 
 
I decided to make the oars using Boxwood as the brass etched versions lacked the looms, and you can’t get away from the two-dimensional aspect of brass etch.
 

9943(2)
The kit supplies two sweet little etched grappling hooks, I silver soldered the arms rather than use ca which would have been detrimental to the blackening process.
 
The boat hook was fitted in a Boxwood handle rather than use the etched version.
 
The grapnel as provided by the kit lacks the benefit of a ring, easily rectified, which is needed to attach the classic Fisherman's Bend hitch for small anchors, where the line needs to pass twice thro' the ring.
 
Steel gives a grapnel rope circ for ships boats as 3"-3½"
I used .30mm ø line for the purpose.
 

9944(2)
The completed set.
 

9927(2)
Wipe-on-poly is used to enhance the natural colour of the timbers, I decided not to use paint on the model.
 

9928(2)
It was necessary to use Light oak wood stain on the keel, which would still have been the case had I used the supplied Pearwood.
 

9930(2)

9932(2)
An enjoyable little interlude to occupy myself during the Bathroom re-fit which looks to continue for a few days more.
 

9949
A better appreciation of the relative size of this bijou build, I think it will be a cutter for a cutter and join Alert in her display case.
 
As I finish this project Chris has issued his replacement, enhanced, 18’ cutter.
Having a Pearwood keel is a good improvement and the use of thinner 0.6mm strip is more scale appropriate. The build sequence is also more logical and I like the inclusion of Pearwood oars, something else I feel is preferable.
 
 
I have decided to rename this log as 18th c ships boats – 1:64 scale - Vanguard Models, as today I received another of Chris’s little gems, this time the 22’ Yawl.
 
 
 
This build will continue in this section.
 
 
B.E.
19/01/21