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kirill4

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  1. kirill4
    Thanks Marc, It is not yet completed ... need good final push /kick to me to complete - remaining flags,anchors ,swivel guns ,braces lower sails and think how to manage stands... some minor things remains but I feel no power to fix them :))) looks like much easy to press buttons on pc :))) next project most probably english elizabethian galleon - want to make some conversion of airfix GH ... will try to transform it to the size and shape of "Revenge" or "Elizabeth Jonas" galleon ... I think this kit is the most accurate kit represents elizabethian galleon , almost exactly reproducing famous Baker 's picture of galleon
  2. kirill4
    consider pictures I posted above there some thoughts regarding correct position of main stay ( probabbly fore stay as well) :)))
  3. kirill4
    Good day Bill, It looks nice! more correctly than kit offers :))) just for information and inspiration some fotos of Mayflower II , GH and Dufken replica I found in the book and @ flickr @ resource
  4. kirill4
    it looks good and accurate, is it like N170 knot from the page posted above? if I not mistaken,for big,heavy anchor often used knot N169 from the same illustration as example VICTORY anchor
  5. kirill4
    Thank You very much Tomasz for your attention to my project and remarks
  6. kirill4
    Good day Dear Bill, Please consider my remarks as... just remarks of outsider vewer 😄... not like demands that You must do it in this way only and no step aside allowed ! In no way I expected my remarks will "...adding the stress and anxiety over wanting to make sure every line, block and piece or of the authentic size, color, and scale....." Funny thing, that from my point of vew , this part of assembling model which consists of collecting information and searching how things should looks like and how they work, this is the relaxing enjoyment😁😁 Rigging diagrams from the kit which You posted, looks quite accurate and correct in general, however some things shown probably wrong or excessively simplified and schematic for such big scale... please check this knights placed near the bases of the masts - they supposed for main sails or mizzen sail tie halliyards but not for the main topsail braces as shown in the kit coming back to this lines n6 and n7 as per kit rigging manual , there is no scence at all to arrange them by this way , this is enigma for me, why kit shows it like this? Looks like kit designer missed something in this part of rigging :)))
  7. kirill4
    Bosco72, I didn't reach this stage on my model yet \ I saw anchor hitch knot need to be made ...and planned to try to do it as shown in Mondfeld or Landstrem "Vasa" book. May be will do it on this week...
  8. kirill4
    replica rigging plan
  9. kirill4
    I think it will not be wrong if You make it the same lenght as top mast height
  10. kirill4
    Tomasz, By my opinion, there are a few ways to make rigging: *to build exactly as suggested in your kit *to build as existing relica *to build as suggested in the books Andrson and Mondfeld- regarding proper rigging arrangements but maybe not exactly as your model kit suggested *to build as Mayflower II rigging *to build as Aker siggested| developed by eugen.t in his reconstruction to avoid repeating all the same information again please check recently posted drawings in nearby treads of GH and Mayflower buildings as we discussed rigging variants just a few days ago... from my point of vew there is most interesting rigging plan for GH made by eugen.t based on Aker reconstruction... Golden Hind-T5A1.pdf
  11. kirill4
    Please check and read nearest treads about our friends building the same model as You are busy with :)))
  12. kirill4
    Good day , Dear Tomasz, Your model looks very nice... however I would reccomend to read this GREAT book written world famous author(in ship model making and history receach) which will help You a lot! https://cloud.mail.ru/public/JU7C/bVhk9VrXn There You will find description od every rigging line You will need to arrange on Your galleon model ... All The Best!!! Kirill
  13. kirill4
    Dear Bill, I'm very sorry :))) but have some thoughts...after watching Your model fotos... May be there is sence, to avoid making mistakes, to spend approx 20 min. to read Anderson book? https://cloud.mail.ru/public/JU7C/bVhk9VrXn https://cloud.mail.ru/public/Aua2/rJZNnLbhj https://cloud.mail.ru/public/3Wmx/iJuDBUo6v https://cloud.mail.ru/public/MpaE/CZdnEmv6e just read relevant page about each of rigging lines before You will start making any rigging lines.? .. of couse if it is matter /important for You, to make rigging more or less in right way and study 17 century rigging practice? if not , and You want just assemble this kit - please continue by Your own taste :))) and kit instructions ... it will be good as well!!! Of couse first of all it is your model ! and You have to get pleasure during working with your model! All The Best!!! Kirill standing rigging thickness.xls
  14. kirill4
    this kind of knob more suitable for ordinary , let' s say , standing parts of running rigging...in case You want to secure cable standing part of tackle running rigging to the ring bolt on the deck , for example...
  15. kirill4
    Good day, Dear Bosco72, As far as I know ahchor cable siezed to the anchor with special knot , please tell us why did You choose this kind of anchor cable attachment? picture from this book... just as example , this knot used during centures to secure anchor's cable...
  16. kirill4
    traditionaly, there is certain sequince in fitting rigging settled trough centuries :))) and this is probably most convenient way in rigging: first standing - *side tackles pendants and main stay tackles pendant *shrouds *stays *backstays their loops on the mast head have to be placed one above another second stage fitting running rigging, on the model I think there is not such strict secquince as in fitting of standing rigging, running rigging could be done in much convenient way... but logicaly it could be done from bottom to top of the masts fore>main>mizzen *spritsail *rigging main sail *topsail *topgallant sail,etc. braces and bowlines could be finaly fitted in last turn ,when all sails will be at place...
  17. kirill4
    depends on available resources... best results will be by making all ness-ry sizes yourself using rope making machine...on the market we could find many differnt kinds of such devices from very primitive construction and cheap price to high tech very expansive machines ...funny things that final results will be almost the same doesn't matter which kind of rope making device were used :)))
  18. kirill4
    Actually standing rigging is not black...may be dark brown ,as natural hemp tarred looks like? Running rigging same material but not tarred - should be kind of light ochre-brown color? But You will need much more different sizes of treads for making good looking rigging, obviously two is not safficient!:) roughly say , You be need about 10-12 different sizes of the ropes... and by my opinion ,that treads from the kit ... better don't to use them :((( they have too much "fur" ,on the model they will not looks nice and just will spoil perfectly assembled and painted hull...if possible need try to find treads with smooth surface...
  19. kirill4
    Class!!! Thank You!!!
  20. kirill4
    backing to lowering topmast we could look at the drowing from Ab Hoving book again - there is special mechanism designed for that
  21. kirill4
    Yes,correct... topmast need to be remained moveable... it is often lowering down on real vessel of that period, if weather getting worst and serious storm is coming topmast could be lowered down... Of couse if construction of topmast allowed to do this...at least in 17th century it was common practice as I know....early galleon of 16 century most probably didn't have such option due to there was different type of connection between mast and topmast, kind of permanent connection...
  22. kirill4
    I would reccomend first to complete standing rigging, and than to start running rigging ,not vise versa it will be easy for installation... treads which You use have too much "fur" ,it seems strange on the pictures...don't You consider to make some treatment or even start to use another kind of treads, without fur? I know Gutermann treads " tera " serie quite good in this respect...
  23. kirill4
    Peterson shown us how to rigg shrouds in exploded vew..,however first pair shown fitted at place, around masthead... please note first burton pendants need to be fitted,than shrouds... Did You fitt that pendants for side tackles? there are some pictures from Ab Hoving book... it is about Dutch shipbuilding ,but in principal rigging the same as used in Mayflower case
  24. kirill4
    Oh! I understood!:))) If You would follow assembly instructions it should be OK!:)... they are very simplified and not supposed shrouds loops creating at all... but if followed second picture from Peterson book( which tells us how it should be), in that case You did it a little bit wrong... You made loops around topmast ,which need to be kept " moveable" ,but shrouds loops need to be arranged around main masthead instead of...please check second picture You posted carefully:))) there are some pictures from Ab Hoving book ,and Winter book
  25. kirill4
    Good day BACKER, Top mast should have possibilities to be lowered down fast ...depehd on weather conditions... but wnen we will make securing shroud loops like that , it will be very difficult to lowering down topsails

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