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Everything posted by clearway
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Hi again JB- yes the planks that swing sharply upwards at the stern beside the rudder post- i water the ink down - if using top quality india ink (windsor & newton for example) 4 parts water to 1 part ink- fill a tub wityh the ink and add the rigging thread- give it a while to soak in while tamping it to drive out air bubbles- then the messy part- i run it between the two poles for the clothes line to dry out for an hour or two then reel it back onto the cardboard tube.... loads of mess and interesting if it knots!!!! Regards the bulwarks if using thin veneer it will form o.k. if done post fitting them - also means you can plank over any filling pieces you might need to add. Everything is in the log but best way would be to take it in bite size chunks as there are 21 pages worth! Though maybe worth going backwards through the log as i altered certain fixtures and fittings as and when me and my erstwhile colleague Keith S made observations or i more info came to light. Keith
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Hi JB - the tuck is where the planking on the hull curves around onto the transom unlike how occre have just run it onto a flat stern- i used the plans and measured the location of the holes for the sunlights using the stern and taff rail as reference points. Keith
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You are more than welcome Daniel and well done- good luck on your next build -at least the info you need to upgrade the kit is still sailing around 😜 Keith
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Looks crisp and clean Keityh. I rig temporary fore stays while rigging the shrouds/ backstays to stop too much pulling out of line of the masts. Keith
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Thanks for looking in- just a little progress with more white paint added to deck fittings and the masts/ bowsprit progressing nicely. Take care Keith
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- Pourquois Pas
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Fast forward a day and the the port side "altered" boat has been added to the midship davits. Thanks for looking in and take care all. Keith
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Thanks Keith- i can say the same about your build too😉. If anyone wants to know any boo boos i have made and if i was starting this kit again i would address the incorrect frame shaping either side of the two fullest frames amidships (should be a lot fuller) and really should be two backstays to the fore and main topmasts - still sticking with no royal fore/ backstays as none in any sketches / lithographs i have seen and sticking with no topgallant mast on the mizzen. I would also use smaller diameter deadeyes, and 3mm planking for the decking, and smaller sized gratings. Keith
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Thanks for the likes, comments and looking in as always - not been in my modelling den of sin much recently - been in reading mode🤓. Back with Terror and i have fitted the eyes to the shroud protector and hull for the ladder- i am going to have the ladder dismounted here and stash it on the "bumper" somewhere or maybe in the storage along with the spars etc in the waist? Also mention is often made of the altered ships boats found in the "boat place" so will use these for the boats in the davits at the mainmast -these are more of the resin quaycraft models. For the Iron davits in the waist i am going to have them removed but glue some eyes in place to imitate the mountings (Crozier had these removed before crossing the Atlantic). Take care all Keith
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i berated my intelligence and ancestry shall we say! The ratlines look great Keith especially considering the scale you are working to. Keith
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It's o.k. Keith -i was drilling some 0.6mm holes in some wood the other day and didn't realise i was holding it with my fingertip exactly where the drill bit "popped" through- not once but twice !!!!!! As you said time to put it down and retire for the night- mind you , you can number the parts in red afterwards 🤪 Keith
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nice to see you back with her Keith- sounds like trying to get nice weather in cumbria! Keith
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Thanks Keith, there was also a company run by Nick Tonkin called "The Model Dockyard" who carried a good range and didn't mind you calling with advise on fittings etc- sadly retired last year though. I have to admit though it was a nightmare having to rig up through the davit - if you varnish something after drilling make sure you clear the holes out properly!!!! the wood effect was created by first priming with humbrol matt black from a rattle can, then a coat of matt desert yellow then then a wash of humbrol matt 26 khaki followed by wash for light wood from AK interactive followed by a couple of coats of matt acrylic varnish. Keith
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After nearly two solid weeks of heavy rain here in Cumbria and Dumfries and Galloway over the border i think i might fit davits and boats to the house! In the shipyard we have the first boat on the davits though not belayed yet- this is one of the Quaycraft resin models i ordered back in 2020 from Cornwall Model Boats. The falls rig through a hooked double block on the boat and two sheaves near the end of the davit arm. Take care all and thanks for the likes and looking in. Keith
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Hi Daniel- certainly straightened them out, though where as Keith S was thinking CA i would use watered down P.V.A as "superglue" tends to make the thread brittle- but certainly looks a lot better. Keith
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I spent a bit of time contemplating this and thought "if i had put the rearmost skid beams further towards the mizzen mast there are two convenient rope ladders to access the bridge" on the other hand when doing the companionway ladder could they have used it to access the bridge when not needing it? This lil old ship just keeps you guessing !!!!😁 Keith
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Pull up a chair Keith- though the build might follow the speed of continental drift but the bar is well stocked😁. The paint is Humbrol or tamiya spray acrylic depending on colour - the wash on the decks was applied using a paintbrush. Regards the chainplates they are similar on Endurance nearly down to the waterline. Keith
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- Pourquois Pas
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Hi Ian- it is to 1/100 scale- my version is an old Heller kit but Zvezda rereleased it a couple of years ago under their banner. Keith
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