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clearway

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Everything posted by clearway

  1. i would just leave her as merchant ship to be honest- at work at the moment so no access to reference material. mostly governed by size of gun being used really as victory has various sizes depending on cannon size. Keith
  2. ahhh the memories!!!! keep sanding until no ridges compadre- also for reference in Matthews book and blog are plan views of the "bumpers" which give the general shape towards bow and stern. Keith
  3. You maniac!😁😉😉 for the reef points i used some thin rigging thread from my stash and threaded it so far through then ran a couple of stitches around where both sides met the sail to hold them in place along with a drop of dilute P.V.A. to stop the thread unravelling - also unlike me dont forget the reef points on the spanker🙄. Keith
  4. ooo good thinking keith B! they did state in the same article they also found a 3 feet long oak stanchion with a locating peg cut into the bottom of it nearby and reckon they could have been carried south by the tides and ice to where they were found. However i am wondering would they make a support for the bridge out of 2 and a half inch pine- but the length sure as heck fits in as they reckon it was longer originally? ahhhh the mystery just keeps going. Keith
  5. further to my thoughts on the stanchion here is a quote from John Rae regarding what he found also (though not 100% certain it is off Erebus or Terror it seems likely). In his report to the Royal Geographical Society the following April, Rae recalled how on the afternoon of 21 August 1851 the search party had “proceeded but a short distance when a piece of pine-wood was picked up which excited much interest. “In appearance it resembled the butt end of a small flag-staff; was 5 feet 9 inches in length, and round except 12 inches at the lower end, which was a square of 2 ½ inches. It had a curious mark, resembling this (s c), apparently stamped on one side, and at 2 ½ feet distance from the step there was a bit of white line in the form of a loop nailed on it with two copper tacks. Both the line and the tacks bore the Government mark, the broad arrow being stamped on the latter.” Maybe the "white line" was to help people avoid walking into it on a darkened deck? Keith
  6. awesome buddy- just had a thought, how about using stitching to give the impression of the panels -won't look as authentic but from normal viewing distance might pass muster? Keith
  7. yet again another build that is awesome,,, you are not helping to dispel the myth that all modellers are a tad crazy and not wired right🤪. Keith
  8. Thanks for the likes, links and comments everyone, I now have the rope handrail on the bridge. Thinking about supporting the bridge near midships and when reading Matthews book concerning modifications made to the ships boats mention is made of making use of wooden supports that he suggests might have been used to support the canvas cover for the decks when wintering over, got me thinking "what if they were used for supporting the bridge instead as they would be about the same height"?🤔. Take care all Keith
  9. Nice- now you know why i chickened out and used occres poor samples! That will be some stitching exercise😱. Will deffo look awesome though (don't be pinching any wedding dresses for the silk😁) Keith
  10. Interesting double look concept- i have seen some railway modellers use a similar technique- one side of a freight vehicle in one livery and the other side with the same livery but altered insignia etc for a later time period (some british goods vehicles went through several changes of owner). Keith
  11. I glue the 2nd planking using evo-stick fast setting wood glue (thin bead on the plank then wiping excess with finger tip) and using dress makers pins to hold in place till dry (see early on in my terror log). regards trimming i glue all planks on first then trim back till a few mm from the hull then sand back with fine sand paper. Ignore occres planking runs - planks taper towards the bow and from deck level till the rudder post. for example if the frame at the bow is 10mm the frame at midships could be 20mm so you will need to taper from where the frames start to lessen towards the bow/ stern. hope this helps (from my endurance log) Keith
  12. for a first planking attempt not bad at all, If painting you should get away without 2nd planking, If adding a 2nd layer just add a layer of the cheapest 4 or 5mm x 1mm planking using the first layer to guide you. Keith
  13. Even though i was sanding outside a dust mask is definitely recommended! As regards the bumpers prime, then sand back then repeat- do the same with the paint proper and it will fill any blemishes which would negate having to plank them (also recommend this for the hull when painting- see my hms victory log) you will still see the odd line here and there which shows there is planking though will be more subtle. Keith
  14. Thanks Hake, not sure exactly how accurate we have all got it but we are in the right area (waits while parks canada releases a series of wreck photos showing all the details we have been driving ourselves nuts with)..... just had a thought, if they did put the compasses in the carpenters store while not in use they will all still be there..... Keith S get that diving expedition underway😁. Keith
  15. oooo i never thought of that Daniel i just used a lining pen to create a basic compass rose on a piece of stout paper left over when you use a paper punch, dimensions on mine are about same as yours, and yes Craig we have all drifted into a strange mental place🤪 Keith
  16. Psst kevin i highly recommend a dremel with the chuck extension lead/cable (best purchase i ever made and sooooooooooo sexy) you end up with a very light and handy to use ergonomic hand held sleeve with a chuck on the end while the dremel itself is held up either in a stand or hanging from a hook😜 Keith
  17. Thanks for the likes etc everyone, continuing on with the bridge redux and added more handrail stanchions on wooden supports abaft the bridge. Also removed the brass sunlight from near the capstan and added some 2mm brass tube for the safety valve steam pipe. Take care all and thanks for looking in Keith
  18. Nice Work Daniel, takes the model to a whole different look when installed methinks😁 Keith
  19. there is also a company called Always Hobbies (hobbies.co.uk) which sells various types of stripwood/ metal and Caldercraft fittings - it is where i got the walnut strip for my Terror build. Chris has mentioned Cornwall Model Boats and they are my main go to for a lot of things shippy Keith
  20. evening/ morning/ afternoon depending where you are😁, have finished making a pedestal for the azimuth compass, when looking at various pics i saw one on a brass tripod stand and thought that will do nice, Took Craigs idea and mounted the legs on an inverted box which sits over the post. Also made a new bridge with stanchions spaced closer and not with one down the centreline. Take care all Keith
  21. Thanks Keith, was just thinking that could have been the last view anyone from the western world would of seen of her and Erebus- gets you thinking. Keith
  22. Thanks for looking in, persistant rain today led to shipyard time. Back in more certain domain with the main sail sheets and tacks rigged before i finally glue the table and azimuth post in place (still need coiled though). Also fitted blackened brass rod to emulate supports for the bridge (might scrap this one and remake without a stanchion in the middle and others re spaced to suit). I read a bit about the wreck where the divers found a small stove in the sickbay in the bows with the flue sticking up through the foredeck and all the bulkheads removed, but suspect this was an impromptu addition so wont include it. Another thing to get sorted before i glue in the table etc is the vent for the safety valves Keith S mentioned in his last post on his log. Take care all Keith
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