clearway
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Everything posted by clearway
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looks o.k. to me- i think as these wern't very old at wars end less is more regards the weathering- on my armour kits i dry brush humbrol gun metal on to all sharp edges / handrails/ areas with regular footfall. Keith -
Nearly there Hake- to me it was like some sort of punishment given to victorian prisoners! I use various grades of sandpaper wrapped around a 4" offcut of 2" x 1" timber for sanding down things like hulls and those accursed bumpers😁. Does the occre kit now include the deckhouses at the stern - Keith S and myself along with others had to scratchbuild them? I used Humbrol "clear fix" to make my 'glass' in the illuminators- it was originally designed to make the windows in model airliners and glue clear canopies in place. I used the mantua kit for the larger boat then resin models from quaycraft model boats for the launches (i try to mention sources manufacturers for any extras i have bought in the log). Keep up the good work Keith
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Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
i use Ronseal acrylic matt varnish for mine- though i never actually apply varnish till all the fittings are pinned/ glued in place as otherwise you are relying on the varnish coat to act as a bond rather than any wood/metal. Keith -
can't be sure but i think someone else might have released a model of one these a few years back (italeria/ revell)? was going to buy it but changed my mind- might change it again as RGL is swinging me into getting the U9 kit which i nearly bought! Oh god i can't buy any more kits i have loads....... Keith
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I sometimes wonder what is wrong with us all on here😁 Excellent idea regards turning the kit into Britannic Kevin- i think we drive each other into further acts of crazy on here- long may it continue (goes back to my HMS Terror and considers my next bit of insanity🤪) Keith
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Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
It is a learning curve with ship kits- each problem you come across prepares you for next time, though different manufacturers have different "bugs" in their kits. The colour scheme is looking good Joe, and i would leave her natural wood between the rubbing strake and waterline. Keith -
started my victory in 2013 and keep going back to her after breaks of a couple of years, i have loads of builds done but 1st rate men o war are not for the faint hearted or beginners really (and mine is the less complicated billings kit)! Keith
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oh yes Keith- it was the captains choice to remove the cross jack and topsail off the mizzen mast and send them back to the naval yard that made Terror and Erebus barque rigged- also accounts of captains heightening/ lowering masts to alter trim when under sail for the first time based on previous experience/ knowledge. In matthews book he states how Crozier sent the iron waist davits back as he didn't think they would stand up to arctic conditions. As Keith S and myself keep saying " all the info we are needing is there on the seafloor - though resembles some of the restoration jobs some of you guys have started build logs with .... hmm looks over at Keith B 😉 Keith
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I agree Craig- just sometimes you see things and wonder if they hadn't altered stuff- it's almost as if the admiralty went out of their way to create confusion by mashing up updated fittings on drawings from before the latest drawings! And they provided updated draughts for the updates on their ships except for the re-fit we need (mind you it is the same with Beagle (can't remember the guys name offhand but he didn't seem to like producing complete drawings for his exploration ship re-fits). Keith
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looking a lot better than the occre sails Daniel- well done. Keith
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Thanks very muchly guys for the likes and comments- yep Craig that is why i went with iron stanchions- however at the sight where they discovered the long pine "piece" mentioned couple of posts ago, they also found a 3 foot longish piece of oak with a locating peg cut into the bottom and a 1 inch hole through the top which is screaming removable handrail stanchion.... Take care everyone Keith
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Thanks for looking in everyone, just a quicky tonight with the starboard davits installed (been having a lot of good weather for D.I.Y till today). Have decided will go with wooden supports for the bridge based on the fact that less iron makes sense if trying to heighten the compass away from masses of iron in the hull (should we have used wooden railing supports methinks!? take care all Keith
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Hey Keith hows it going m8y? the video i watched is by Tom Lauria, i just searched "making silkspan sales" on google. The other Keith
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wow m8y will be worth it in the end- i can't use a sewing machine to save my life - usually get mother in law to do panels for me and i hand sew the seams, but she is now in her late 70s so its a bit much for her eyesight these days. I would have had to handstitch all the panel lines hence the chickening out. However watched a u tube video of some one making silkspan (model aircraft tissue if looking for it in u.k.) and thought "if only i had watched this several months ago"!!!!!! Keith
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Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
na Joe the indecision and where to go scenario gets to most who decide to move away from standard kit instructions- if modelling pre 1800 go with white for below waterline or copper sheeting, if a baltic or other cold water ship black will suffice as no shipworm 😜. One of the other terror builds has done the black prow/ stern with varnished wood hull so check his build out but i would stick with stain all around if not painting. Keith -
Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
there are plenty of pics of coasting schooners around online to give inspiration, just adding barrels and other clutter to the decks and adding more realistic ships boats in the waist and off stern davits can work wonders, Also check out some of the schooner builds in build logs to see how they have made the masts etc. Again also highly recommend plank on frame models by harold underhill (volume 1 covers hull and volume 2 covers masts/ yards/ rigging), I agree with Chris , the cannons just dont look right as no room for loading/recoil. Keith -
Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
i would just leave her as merchant ship to be honest- at work at the moment so no access to reference material. mostly governed by size of gun being used really as victory has various sizes depending on cannon size. Keith -
ahhh the memories!!!! keep sanding until no ridges compadre- also for reference in Matthews book and blog are plan views of the "bumpers" which give the general shape towards bow and stern. Keith
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You maniac!😁😉😉 for the reef points i used some thin rigging thread from my stash and threaded it so far through then ran a couple of stitches around where both sides met the sail to hold them in place along with a drop of dilute P.V.A. to stop the thread unravelling - also unlike me dont forget the reef points on the spanker🙄. Keith
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ooo good thinking keith B! they did state in the same article they also found a 3 feet long oak stanchion with a locating peg cut into the bottom of it nearby and reckon they could have been carried south by the tides and ice to where they were found. However i am wondering would they make a support for the bridge out of 2 and a half inch pine- but the length sure as heck fits in as they reckon it was longer originally? ahhhh the mystery just keeps going. Keith
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further to my thoughts on the stanchion here is a quote from John Rae regarding what he found also (though not 100% certain it is off Erebus or Terror it seems likely). In his report to the Royal Geographical Society the following April, Rae recalled how on the afternoon of 21 August 1851 the search party had “proceeded but a short distance when a piece of pine-wood was picked up which excited much interest. “In appearance it resembled the butt end of a small flag-staff; was 5 feet 9 inches in length, and round except 12 inches at the lower end, which was a square of 2 ½ inches. It had a curious mark, resembling this (s c), apparently stamped on one side, and at 2 ½ feet distance from the step there was a bit of white line in the form of a loop nailed on it with two copper tacks. Both the line and the tacks bore the Government mark, the broad arrow being stamped on the latter.” Maybe the "white line" was to help people avoid walking into it on a darkened deck? Keith
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awesome buddy- just had a thought, how about using stitching to give the impression of the panels -won't look as authentic but from normal viewing distance might pass muster? Keith
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