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clearway

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  1. clearway
    Coming along nicely and nice work on the windlass- i should really see about sourcing a couple of 6 pounder cannons for mine! Keith
  2. clearway
    Looking good- where i live we were almost back to early summer regards warmth and sunny days over the weekend- back to rain and wind again now so no more outside "messy" at the moment! Keith
  3. clearway
    Thanks for the likes and looking in everyone- wow what a glorious weekend weather wise- safe to say lots of outdoor D.I.Y. jobs crammed in while the temp was in the high teens centigrade so no shipyard time. This evening with darkness starting around 4pm and drizzly rain its back indoors! The bower anchors are now in place though still need to fabricate the anchor release mechanism (see sketch) Take care all Keith
  4. clearway
    They took the cast iron blooms heated them and then hammered them into ingots which took a lot of the brittleness out, as regards quality iron making was vastly improved by the Victorians - also with the introduction of coke instead of charcoal for smelting better grade iron was possible. Another factor to consider is the type of paint which they used (heavily saturated with lead) which made it very resilient. If weathering the bow plating i would maybe add a few "scratches and scrapes" and maybe dry brush some rusty shades to the fastenings and edges of the plates. Keith
  5. clearway
    I have a background in Engineering and also study the local iron and steel industry in West Cumberland along with Victorian industrial history- i imagine the iron strapping would have been wrought iron along with the plating. Henry Bessemers convertor for making steel came along a few years after the refits of Erebus and Terror (patented 1856 if memory serves right). Keith
  6. clearway
    Ahh brings back memories! I held the gudgeons in place and drilled a 0.68 hole into the stern which i then inserted a shortened ready blackened Peco track pin with a dab of superglue gel on the end- after i had done a couple of these to tack them in place i drilled and pinned the rest of the holes. I also added extra holes in the pintles on the rudder. As regards the boats i replaced the boat in the waist with one from Mantua and added others from Quaycraft model boats. Keith
  7. clearway
    we need to send Keith s down to the wrecks as he is closest- all our questions are lying there on the sea bed! Keith
  8. clearway
    Welcome to the lil Terror club fellow terrorite- i just left the hatch coamings square. Regards the deckhouses i removed the starboard one and re done it as per plans but left port one with "vented" door because i liked it (though it made me sweat a bit removing it)- maybe should be a bit narrower but it is your baby and if you like it stick with it. regards the timber between the deck and stern-a section will need removed where the rudder hole is. Keith
  9. clearway
    Thanks for the likes and looking in everyone- heavy rain and less daylight = shipyard time😉. Back with Terror and the main braces are finally rigged - that is it they are staying rigged this time! Also the tacks for the stay and jib sail are now rigged- just realised that is all the rigging finished bar any needed for the ships boats. Also made a start on the anchor chain- this is the caldercraft studded link chain mentioned right at start of log which was blackened chemically- still trying to decide whether to have anchor with stock in place or shipped and anchor stowed as per Mathews plans in his book🤔 Take care all Keith P.S. guy fawkes night here in u.k. so sounds like battle of Trafalgar at the moment!
  10. clearway
    Looks good when you get something that starts looking like Terror😁- the carpet monster will have eaten the window- ask it to return all my missing pieces of 1/35 armour etch if you catch it hake! Keith
  11. clearway
    Thanks for looking in and the likes- more white primer has been added to the hull and deckhouses, main reason at the moment is to highlight any seams/ pin marks / gaps that need filled or trimmed back. Will probably pick out the doors in a dark wood varnished finish as a break from all the white paint when the hull is finished. the deck has also received a light yellow wash. Take care all Keith
  12. clearway
    Yeah- having the same dilema here Daniel- i was going to have the two whale boats on the skids til the work on the bridge and azimuth compass post makes it look wrong with the boats up there- on the plans it does look like some boats were placed on deck beside near the wheel on the port side. Keith
  13. clearway
    welcome back fellow terrorite- nice work on the plating. Keith
  14. clearway
    well as a resident of west cumbria (home of scafel pike- pronounced scawfell locally) i can vouch the lake district is officially the wettest place in england (Seathwaite in Borrowdale to be precise) - best cumberland (and only really true) sausage is found between Keswick/ Whitehaven/ Workington and Waberthwaite near Ravenglass. Avoid Windermere it is too commercialised and highly recommend a trip on the La'al Ratty 8 mile long narrow gauge railway- oh and the filter really brought the greys together- looks awesome😁. and no i don't work for the lake district tourist board😜. Keith
  15. clearway
    Maybe give it a blue wash like the german sub to blend the colour differences together- but definitely looks like it has seen some work. Keith
  16. clearway
    Looking good Alan- the differences in colour on the eduard etch is left over from the acid where they "half etched" some parts to make them thinner - see this on a lot of their 1/35 armour upgrades. Keith
  17. clearway
    thanks for looking in- back with Endurance and the pinrails for the foremast are fastened onto the bulwarks, also started on the well deck mounted skylights. The topmasts have also been tapered- first the usual gradual taper- then for the last 20mm or so tapered at a more acute angle then the mast cap added (used photos from the book "south with endurance" for reference). Take care all Keith
  18. clearway
    Ahh i wondered what you were up to these days Obvious- i would double plank the hull but use 4 or 5mm wide planking strips like on my Terror build. Out of interest the part of England (originally Scotland till the 1100's) i live in was largely settled by the Norseman and we still talk a la'al birra ancient norse, "as fra Cumbria- oos it gaan" 😁 and all the place names are viking in origin- we still call our hills Fells and the mountains pikes (Englands highest mountain which is about 30-40 km from where i live is now called Scafel Pike but locally in West Cumbria we still pronounce it the old viking way which in english would be spelt Scawfell. you can see why the Norwegians liked our locality! Keith
  19. clearway
    all i can say is your experiment was a big success! I know the feeling though- sometimes it's the dread of the project that stalls you, and when you actually start it all falls into place. Keith
  20. clearway
    Thanks for looking in- little bit of progress in the yard with the hull given a misting of humbrol white primer to help see some of the detail and the deck primed and given a coat of tamiya deck tan (will use some AK interactive filter for light wood before varnishing). Also the plastic mast caps have been added to the lower masts - the tops arnt glued yet to allow some "tuning"- used superglue gel for these. the dowelling resting on the bulwarks is the topmasts which need tapered. Also a pack of the extra goodies i ordered from cornwall model boats😁-OMG the 2mm deadeyes are so smalllllllllllllll😬. Take care all Keith
  21. clearway
    Thanks Greg- Yep the heller kit has the belaying pins on the midship railings but that is it, the idea of cleats for the braces makes sense so will go with that😁.. and nice yacht - and nice to see accurate looking kit provided sails. Keith
  22. clearway
    that wood is going to look really awesome when varnished Greg- quick question as your plans/ instructions will be more concise- on the heller model there are no belaying pins on the bulwarks for the fore and mizzen mast, i know from photos that there were pin racks on the shrouds but not sure if on the bulwarks and did they fasten the braces to cleats? Keith
  23. clearway
    i use two pieces of "u" shaped brass wire glued into a piece of wood bent to the distance apart i want the deadeyes to be, then rig the shroud to the upper deadeye with the "spacer" attached to the shroud deadeye and channel deadeye- once the shroud is secured to the deadeye release and move along to next- i normally do the shrouds in pairs starboard to port (Hope all that makes sense). Keith
  24. clearway
    i am doing hellers 1/100 pourquoi pas and will be using 2mm and 3mm deadeyes so i can appreciate your pain there Phil- oh god they are small but at least mine doesnt have as many shrouds as yours! Keith
  25. clearway
    Thanks for the likes and comments and looking in everyone- this evening after a couple of days of pondering i unhooked the long suffering rigged/ unrigged main brace and made an outrigger from one of the brass eyes from the kit fittings with a piece of soft brass wire from my spares pile wrapped around it near the eye to form the two diagonal supports (one leading forward the other downwards. will need a coat of varnish and then hopefully i can finally get the brace rigged! Take care all. Keith

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