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clearway

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Everything posted by clearway

  1. Thanks for the likes and looking in, decided to have a try at the steering gear- as with Terror the 10 spoke ships wheel is from Caldercraft. So far have made the foremost bracket and rearmost though might btry to refine the latter a little more- two more brackets are needed- one just behind the foremost and one astride the rudder head. I think the wooden barrel for the steering chains needs thinned too. Take care all Keith
  2. Hi Jeff- yes the catheads are the baulks of timber for the anchor- the knee is the support timber underneath the cathead. Keith
  3. Thanks for looking in- been a while since i updated Endurance- the skylights on the foredeck are finished and have sourced an alternate windlass from Billings obtained via cornwall models boats (not 100% accurate but looks better than supplied version). Also added a coat of white to the funnel and engine room vents though still need to add some eyes for the funnel stays, and not sure i am going to use the supplied vents (likely use either billings or caldercraft to replace them). The hatch atop of the ritz was also altered to lower its profile a little. Thanks for the likes and comments so far- always appreciated. Keith
  4. Nice photo with lots of good detail - interestingly looks as you say like there are no shutters over the portholes- the deckhouse with the funnel resembles the heller kit though with what looks like the engine room vent going down to the deck on the starboard side. As you say though whatever we end up with it will definitely look like Pourquoi pas- and why not indeed😉 Keith
  5. interesting seeing the constructo deckhouses compared to the one in my heller log- i have just managed to get hold of the billings kit (still sealed in original packaging never opened) and that is following the constructo kits arrangement- methinks Pourquois had a few alterations in her life. Have seen pics of the forward wheelhouse without the bridge wings and pics with shelters on the ends of the bridge wings. Keith
  6. They are mounted on same as the main and stern deadeyes- check my log for endurance and there is a pic of my interpretation along with a pic link from hakezou- i had to use a slightly wider chainwhale to compensate for the thickness of the kits deadeyes. Keith
  7. Hi JBthe rigging guide will set you up for about any British warship you need to rig and was invaluable to sort out how the rig might actually have looked- Mattewhs book is great especially the deckhouse and other fittings- the T.V. series did give more inspiration though some details (davits, boat skids etc) were wrong. Keith
  8. Hi again JB- yes the planks that swing sharply upwards at the stern beside the rudder post- i water the ink down - if using top quality india ink (windsor & newton for example) 4 parts water to 1 part ink- fill a tub wityh the ink and add the rigging thread- give it a while to soak in while tamping it to drive out air bubbles- then the messy part- i run it between the two poles for the clothes line to dry out for an hour or two then reel it back onto the cardboard tube.... loads of mess and interesting if it knots!!!! Regards the bulwarks if using thin veneer it will form o.k. if done post fitting them - also means you can plank over any filling pieces you might need to add. Everything is in the log but best way would be to take it in bite size chunks as there are 21 pages worth! Though maybe worth going backwards through the log as i altered certain fixtures and fittings as and when me and my erstwhile colleague Keith S made observations or i more info came to light. Keith
  9. Hi JB - the tuck is where the planking on the hull curves around onto the transom unlike how occre have just run it onto a flat stern- i used the plans and measured the location of the holes for the sunlights using the stern and taff rail as reference points. Keith
  10. methinks your motorised props are becoming a signature hallmark😉- are you going to go with lighting on this one, also maybe take a dremel to the prop and thin the blades down towards the edge sa little would make a massive improvement aesthetically. Keith
  11. Nice to see you back with her- i would 2nd plank her with 4mm x 1mm planks which when tapered in the bow area will curve around the built up bows easier- as you are weathering her i would just use softwood strip. Keith
  12. You are more than welcome Daniel and well done- good luck on your next build -at least the info you need to upgrade the kit is still sailing around 😜 Keith
  13. Looks crisp and clean Keityh. I rig temporary fore stays while rigging the shrouds/ backstays to stop too much pulling out of line of the masts. Keith
  14. Thanks for looking in- just a little progress with more white paint added to deck fittings and the masts/ bowsprit progressing nicely. Take care Keith
  15. Fast forward a day and the the port side "altered" boat has been added to the midship davits. Thanks for looking in and take care all. Keith
  16. Thanks Keith- i can say the same about your build too😉. If anyone wants to know any boo boos i have made and if i was starting this kit again i would address the incorrect frame shaping either side of the two fullest frames amidships (should be a lot fuller) and really should be two backstays to the fore and main topmasts - still sticking with no royal fore/ backstays as none in any sketches / lithographs i have seen and sticking with no topgallant mast on the mizzen. I would also use smaller diameter deadeyes, and 3mm planking for the decking, and smaller sized gratings. Keith
  17. Thanks for the likes, comments and looking in as always - not been in my modelling den of sin much recently - been in reading mode🤓. Back with Terror and i have fitted the eyes to the shroud protector and hull for the ladder- i am going to have the ladder dismounted here and stash it on the "bumper" somewhere or maybe in the storage along with the spars etc in the waist? Also mention is often made of the altered ships boats found in the "boat place" so will use these for the boats in the davits at the mainmast -these are more of the resin quaycraft models. For the Iron davits in the waist i am going to have them removed but glue some eyes in place to imitate the mountings (Crozier had these removed before crossing the Atlantic). Take care all Keith
  18. Just more readily available -where i live the closest model shops sell mainly Humbrol products- the main thing is the primer really helps the acrylic adhere evenly- really any acrylic based primer would do. Keith
  19. i berated my intelligence and ancestry shall we say! The ratlines look great Keith especially considering the scale you are working to. Keith
  20. It's o.k. Keith -i was drilling some 0.6mm holes in some wood the other day and didn't realise i was holding it with my fingertip exactly where the drill bit "popped" through- not once but twice !!!!!! As you said time to put it down and retire for the night- mind you , you can number the parts in red afterwards 🤪 Keith
  21. Nice to see the deck fittings/ houses taking shape Greg- i always find priming with either white or blaacck acrylic primer from a rattle can (humbrol for me) really helps with the top finish. Keith
  22. nice to see you back with her Keith- sounds like trying to get nice weather in cumbria! Keith
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