clearway
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lets face it everyone on here is also unhinged when you see what we put ourselves through, Vincent would probably go through the build logs and think "these guys are nuts"😁, Build coming along great by the way Phil! Keith -
Thanks for looking in, likes and comments everyone. Wow talk about a split weekend weather wise.... yesterday outside in lovely warm sunshine doing D.I.Y. , today started off dull cold and grey then high winds and torrential rain (still lashing down now), though workshop time resulted🙂. On Terror we now have the sheets on the jib sail rigged though the tack still needs rigged, the small anchor each side of the stern are now mounted and before i install the bridge and azimuth compass and post i added some barrels alongside the bulwarks. Take care all Keith
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Hi David, somewhere back in the Ether on this section you will find billings victory builds by shihawk and myself as well (still to finish mine)! read the instructions several times then read again, yes lay the deck planks one by one as on most builds to be honest though Vicky is a mammoth task especially if no prior experience with wooden shipbuilding. Keith
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excellent work and the stand is unusual and interesting , well done , it can be interesting to take an old or basic kit and use it as a baseboard for weathering/ scratchbuilding techniques. I managed to resist temptation to buy this or the U9 kit and thought good boy,,,,, then seen hellers 1/100 Pourquois pas on ebay and thought oooo can try some weathering and silkspan sail techniques on that so bought it. keith
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Looking good Daniel- see reply in my log as to how i do mine. Keith
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Hi Hake- there are various journals on rigging and belaying in general If you can find a copy and intend to continue building naval ships then James Lees Masting and Rigging The English Ship of War (3rd print version if possible) is highly recommended, and they reprinted Darcy Lever's young officers sheet anchor not so long back. Also lots of great build logs on here😉. As tregards the iron (paper) plates they will look fine once painted (don't use acrylic though as that will wrinkle the paper- use enamel- say Humbrol matt 33) .Don't forget you will need some wrapped around the stem as well. Keith Keith
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Hi Daniel- Doing good thanks- hows things your way? Been busy completing outdoor jobs before winter sets in so little workshop time😐, regards reefing points (telltales) i used a darning needle and a few inches of the 0.5 mm rigging thread, passed the thread through the sail with an overlong tail on one side, then used normal sewing thread just below where the reefpoint went through and passed half dozen stitches around it. Also when trimmed to length used some diluted P.V.A. to stiffen them and stop unravelling. Not very prototypical but we are talking 1/75 scale here. Keith
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Progressing nicely Hake- don't worry too much if slight discrepency in ice bumpers port and starboard as the bow area gets very busy later on. The panels are actually for sheaves to guide rigging through the bulwarks (its what i used for my sheets on the fore/main sails and the main yard braces. Keith
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I managed to get hold of the Heller Plastic 1/100 kit off a well known auction site, which should come this week hopefully- you are correct it looks like the constructo kit is now discontinued by look of things, along with the heller , billings 1/75 and zvezda (think this was just the heller one though). Plan on replacing the plastic masts and sails though on mine. Keith
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Well done Daniel- books you in for some remedial therapy😁 Keith
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looks o.k. to me- i think as these wern't very old at wars end less is more regards the weathering- on my armour kits i dry brush humbrol gun metal on to all sharp edges / handrails/ areas with regular footfall. Keith
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Nearly there Hake- to me it was like some sort of punishment given to victorian prisoners! I use various grades of sandpaper wrapped around a 4" offcut of 2" x 1" timber for sanding down things like hulls and those accursed bumpers😁. Does the occre kit now include the deckhouses at the stern - Keith S and myself along with others had to scratchbuild them? I used Humbrol "clear fix" to make my 'glass' in the illuminators- it was originally designed to make the windows in model airliners and glue clear canopies in place. I used the mantua kit for the larger boat then resin models from quaycraft model boats for the launches (i try to mention sources manufacturers for any extras i have bought in the log). Keep up the good work Keith
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Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
i use Ronseal acrylic matt varnish for mine- though i never actually apply varnish till all the fittings are pinned/ glued in place as otherwise you are relying on the varnish coat to act as a bond rather than any wood/metal. Keith -
can't be sure but i think someone else might have released a model of one these a few years back (italeria/ revell)? was going to buy it but changed my mind- might change it again as RGL is swinging me into getting the U9 kit which i nearly bought! Oh god i can't buy any more kits i have loads....... Keith
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I sometimes wonder what is wrong with us all on here😁 Excellent idea regards turning the kit into Britannic Kevin- i think we drive each other into further acts of crazy on here- long may it continue (goes back to my HMS Terror and considers my next bit of insanity🤪) Keith
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Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
It is a learning curve with ship kits- each problem you come across prepares you for next time, though different manufacturers have different "bugs" in their kits. The colour scheme is looking good Joe, and i would leave her natural wood between the rubbing strake and waterline. Keith -
started my victory in 2013 and keep going back to her after breaks of a couple of years, i have loads of builds done but 1st rate men o war are not for the faint hearted or beginners really (and mine is the less complicated billings kit)! Keith
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oh yes Keith- it was the captains choice to remove the cross jack and topsail off the mizzen mast and send them back to the naval yard that made Terror and Erebus barque rigged- also accounts of captains heightening/ lowering masts to alter trim when under sail for the first time based on previous experience/ knowledge. In matthews book he states how Crozier sent the iron waist davits back as he didn't think they would stand up to arctic conditions. As Keith S and myself keep saying " all the info we are needing is there on the seafloor - though resembles some of the restoration jobs some of you guys have started build logs with .... hmm looks over at Keith B 😉 Keith
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I agree Craig- just sometimes you see things and wonder if they hadn't altered stuff- it's almost as if the admiralty went out of their way to create confusion by mashing up updated fittings on drawings from before the latest drawings! And they provided updated draughts for the updates on their ships except for the re-fit we need (mind you it is the same with Beagle (can't remember the guys name offhand but he didn't seem to like producing complete drawings for his exploration ship re-fits). Keith
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looking a lot better than the occre sails Daniel- well done. Keith
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Thanks very muchly guys for the likes and comments- yep Craig that is why i went with iron stanchions- however at the sight where they discovered the long pine "piece" mentioned couple of posts ago, they also found a 3 foot longish piece of oak with a locating peg cut into the bottom and a 1 inch hole through the top which is screaming removable handrail stanchion.... Take care everyone Keith
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Thanks for looking in everyone, just a quicky tonight with the starboard davits installed (been having a lot of good weather for D.I.Y till today). Have decided will go with wooden supports for the bridge based on the fact that less iron makes sense if trying to heighten the compass away from masses of iron in the hull (should we have used wooden railing supports methinks!? take care all Keith
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