clearway
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Everything posted by clearway
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thanks for the comments and views everyone- got the main topyard painted and varnished and rigged the main yard lifts - soooo glad i didn't glue that rail infront of mainmast in place yet! also rigged the halliards to the main mast breast stays- not sure if i got it right with the mainyard lifts but billings just had them belayed to the pin rail! take care all and have fun. Keith
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i have re-masted a 1/98 mantua victory so can appreciate how tiny some of this stuff is😵- well done. Keith
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Thanks for comments likes and taking a look all. the main topyard is now finished and ready for paint and varnish- as with mainyard will leave stuns'l booms till later. also a shot of work so far also for Emmet a shot of my scratchbuilt model of the coal fired grab dredger Clearway- she remained with her coal fired steam engine until mothballed in 1993- was sold for scrap in 1998. need to finish the crane gantry so might be a build log in scratchbuilt ships in the future😉- also really need to sort out my mancave!!!!! take care all Keith
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Hi Emmet you will find a way that suits you- if you look in the completed build gallery you will see my cutty sark, mary ann, norden and fd10 yawl (all billings) Keith
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they should do emmet- i get as close to the tip of the cutters as possible push down on the wood around the head as the wood will dive a little then grip the head and pull 180 degrees in the opposite direction to original nailing if that makes sense- you will need to fill and sand back some afterwards- or you could get a punch and drive the nails deeper, but filling will still be needed. thanks for the positive comment mark (they do help😁) keep going as practice makes it easier- this is my first man'o'war kit as most of the models i have built have been 19th century schooners, clippers or steam ships (tugs, dredgers etc) as well as fishing boats. Keith
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looks good so far and no probs with pics as far as i can see🧐 take care keith
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it comes with practice Emmet- it is hairy pulling the pins, the side cutters i use have blades around 10mm long. gieb8688 asked for some bowshots to show run of main stays- the mainstay (lower one) passes through the marines catwalk through holes in the knightheads, a hole in the stem then back up to the heart- the preventer stay (upper rope) passes through the catwalk as well then goes round the bowsprit then back up to the heart. hope this helps take care all keith
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god speed and good luck- this new generation of modellers don't know how lucky they are- no laser cutting and photoetch upgrades for us back in the day! Keith
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Safe journey Emmet- the brass pins are around 10mm long (the type you see supplied with a lot of model boat kits), i remove the with a pair of side cutters- not really suitable if a natural wood finish is required though. just a lil progress today with the main yard jeer blocks rigged though not tied off yet. Take care all and thanks for looking in. Keith
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Thanks for looking in all- bit more progress- got the main yard truss pendants rigged and the stop cleats in place on the main topyard (will trim the bamboo treenails flush when glue dried). Thinking 200 moves ahead i didn't actually glue the rail in front of the mainmast in permanently yet as i knew i would need access there. Sometimes pays to just sit infront of the model you are building and mentally skip to future possible headaches! As an aside for you steam buffs out there the family went to the Keighley and worth valley railway spring gala on march 7th which was our last day out before the lockdown- take care all Keith
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i know it isn't ships, but been playing around with weathering again- the wagon on the left was weathered using humbrol rust wash which then had some removed using a cotton bud in a rolling motion and the covered van was given a base coat of black primer, then a coat of red brown after which the woodwork was given a wash of humbrol satin 133 bauxite and the underframe a wash of humbrol matt 67 tank grey. keith
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you could always leave a couple of gunport lids closed at the bow as when the anchors are rigged it wont be as noticable? cereal boxes make an ideal source for card - i use it all the time🧐 Keith
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Ty for the positive comment Peter- i have resorted to scratch building, buying in extra fittings and delving into my odds n sods stash left over from previous builds! If you go back to page two and work forwards i have made a note of where i have bought in extra fittings + manufacturer who makes them. Ty all for looking in. Keith
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thanks again for having a look and comments- progressing slow but sure- got the main yard attached (just via the sling at the moment), and rigged the t'gallant lifts though not tied off/ belayed yet- never thought i was ever going to get to this stage! take care all and keep up the good work everyone. Keith
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the wooden fittings in the middle of the main yard are thimbles for trusses - see pic regards trusses for yards on ships like victory. hope that helps, and yes been doing this for around 35 years! Keith
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Hi Emmet, the thread is 1mm diameter- the two fittings in the middle are actually wooden eyes that the trusses pass through to hold the yard to the mast- the blocks on the end of the yard are 5mm and 6mm- the larger blocks you see on the mizzen are 5mm and the smaller 3mm. the mainyard is 400mm long. Keith
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Thanks again for the kind words, likes and taking a peek. Emmett i trim the planks as needed afer removing from the water and then using thumb and fingers tease them to shape then pin and glue them to the hull using either P.V.A. or woodworking adhesive- i dont take the pins/ nails out for at least 24 hours, but if using brass nails to fasten the planks will leave them in for a few days before pulling them (hope that makes sense). Back to the beast and rigged the t'gallant cluelines and sheets, tidied some of the rigging and painted the mainyard while starting to attach some of the blocks and truss lines- put it on the laptop to show how long the main/ fore yards are (stuns'l booms not in place yet). take care all Keith
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maybe depends on the humidity levels where it is used- u.k. climate different to african/ aussie climate as an example.
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well done emmet🥳
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Hi Emmet- as regards bending wood i soak mine for at least 3 hours in a bath of warm water before bending (they use steam on the planks on the real ships) Keith
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I am using the acrylic varnish on my victory (exactly same stuff as you) and also use it on my military/ railway wagon kits with no problems- some models 10+ years with no adverse effects. To thin it you can add it to a lil ole tapwater and stir well! it is a lot quicker drying and a lot less unpleasant to use indoors. Keith
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just slow and steady does it- i start on the bottom at the stern and work forward and upwards- the coppering doesn't always follow the planking- is there a diagram on the destructions showing the run of the tiles? Keith
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coppering is funnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn😬🤪
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Ty for the likes and comments guys- Mike i had thought of that after seeing it in your log🙂- Emmet i have had to buy or use extra strips of wood for things like the gunwales which billings didn't include- also took off cuts of timber (hawthorn) from my friend who was cutting bushes back and seasoned and cut to size. I think either cornwall model boats or the model dockyard in the u.k. do an etched replacement stern for the smaller scale models of victory.There is a pic of the 1/98 mantua kit i re-masted for a friend earlier in my blog and that would fit your space limitations. Keith
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ty for the nice words Mike- thought the name rang a bell (not going totally gaga yet)!- i enjoyed the build of yours even though it wasn't billings. Left the mizzen alone for a day and finished the basic main yard and progressed with main tops'l yard. also finished the caldercraft anchors i bought to replace the billings ply ones. the stuns'l boom irons arn't 100% accurate, but a lot better than billings proposed. the booms arnt fastened in yet to ease painting the yard- as an aside if building the billings victory ignore around 60% of the rigging instructions and use longridge/ lees as a reference 🧐 take care all and keep up the good work everyone. Keith
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