mtdoramike

Hey John, looking good so far. I didn't realize Modelspace offered a Constitution kit by installments.

mike

I was able to get the railings fabricated and installed on the boiler deck as well as the second deck and promenade deck.

This is my belief, when buying a kit of a ship, buy what YOU want to build because the second hand market for them is quite bad. Most second hand kits wind up selling for 25-50% of their retail value and only the most sought after kit realizing the 50% mark. So the seller has most likely made several attempts at selling it with little interest, which is why the cost is what it is. 

I have built around 40 ship model kits in the past 25 years from various kit manufactures and have yet to find a kit with poor instructions. Now I have found in most foreign kits (like CC) points out the interpretation of a few words here and there might be lacking, but for the most part if you read quite a few steps ahead, my rule of thumb was three - four steps ahead and then I could figure out what they were trying to say. Latina and OcCre come closest to step by step instructions that I have found with both written and colored photographs of each step. But as far as plans go, non can compete with Model Shipways especially some of Ben Lankford plans, to me they seem to be the most accurate and easy to understand.

My best resource when I started my first model, back before I owned a computer, was my local Library. The Library had quite the resource material and even a how to book on rigging tall wooden warships from the 1600's to the 1800's. I wished I could have kept that book, but I had to return it. I think I checked out the book at least 10 times. They also had both movies of Mutiny On The Bounty on VHS format, I was building the HMS Bounty at the time and found both movies to be invaluable.  

I would say yes, it could be a first model, IF you are persistent enough to follow through, no matter what the obstacle could be. I have seen models started with all the good intentions in the world of finishing them some by beginners, some by accomplished modelers who just lost interest for various reasons (I'm working on two of those such models now). I believe any kit model with the excellent plans in most all of them to the some good, some great instructions could be a first model, especially with the resources you have in front of you like this website and forums with a wealth of information at your fingertips. So if you do start this kit and don't finish it, it will all be on you, not the kit, not the materials, not the lack of this or that, not the (I see this all the time) POOR INSTRUCTIONS.

If you learn to build off of the plans rather than relying on the instructions, you will find like I did, the instructions some if not most of the time can be quite the hinderance. To me, instructions are only an aid to assist you, but not build the model for you. Ingenuity is the main facture here more so than the instructions. So if you get the kit, good luck on the build and I have faith in you that you can do it.   

Oliver, are you interested in buying this particular kit, if so then I think it would be a great deal for you and the wood would be a small expense compared to the original cost of the kit.

CC, he's asking 60 euro, but it still equals about $68.42 in US currency, so still a heck of a deal for someone.

I agree, what should always be in a used kit for me is the parts bags or containers and most important of all is the plans. Without the plans, you will have a box of wood and metal and that's about it, you can hope the manufacture offers detailed plans that you can buy, but don't hang your hat on it. 

mike

I got a little more work done on the Queen, I have installed most of the lights, but I have a few left that I will try and install in the two upper cabins.

I have a 90 degree drive that I purchased to go into a radio control boat, but decided to go another way with it. So no need for it now. 

$30.00 shipped to lower 48 states. 

Beautiful job on those Pandora's. I too built a Constructo HMS Pandora about 10-12 years ago, I sold it to a fellow living in Canada. I opted to change out those cheezy metal windows and stern plate and scratch built my own, which I thought looked a bit better. 

This thread is spot on CC, I'm glad to see someone take the time to educate people on this issue. I did take note about the shag carpet and avocado appliances though, I like both hahahahaha. This reminds me of clients who would want me to build a ship model for them, they would start off wanting a museum quality piece until I explained to them the cost and time involved in such a request versus a very good display or décor piece. They would always opt for the display or décor piece, they will look basically the same, it's just one is built from a kit or kit bashed to cut down on time and cost versus a scratch built project. 

Due to not being able to get the batteries for my old cordless dremels, I owned three of them with different bits in them so I wouldn't have to stop and change out all the time. The newer ones with the Lion batteries concerned me so I phased out my old cordless dremels for corded models. It's a little bit more of a pain having the cords in the way quite often, but it works for me. 

Beautiful work on the Connie. I built this kit years ago and it is one of the most accurate models of the Connie that I have found. I really like your planking graph, but I would have had that hull planked before you could have finished that graph:)

WOW, absolutely gorgeous.  

I have built close to 40 ship model kits from various manufactures, various scales, various prices points and various skill levels and I have not yet found a NON-buildable ship model kit, if there were, the company would have folded a long time ago. The problem with most foreign made kits are the broken English that is used to translate. But I have found if you can half read plans and use the instructions as mainly a guide, you will fair a lot better at building any ship model. I must also stress RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH because without the research it will make a complex build that much harder. I will spend hours (more likely a hundred or more) hours researching the intended build. If I can't find info on the target ship model, I will use one quite similar to the one I'm building.

One of the best starter kits that I have seen is the Model Shipways Bluenose. No hard angles to the hull. The instructions are some of the best I have seen and they even show you how to plank and not only the hull, but also the deck as well. Now when I mention research, when I built a model of the HMS Bounty, I found VHS tapes of both versions of Mutiny on the Bounty and watched them both probably 10-15 times each just to get ideas and a feel for the model I was building at the time.      

I agree whole heartedly and I will also add here, get yourself a pair of planking pliers to start you off on a good footing. Planking pliers will crimp the plank in several spots helping to make those seemingly impossible bends. Once you have started becoming better at planking usually your third model, you can lose those planking pliers and go to the traditional method of soak, steam, bend and break your planks.   

I have been getting a wee bit of work done on the Queen the last few days. Still waiting on  few parts such as single and double rudder arms 3/16" to control the rudders (3) of them with the rudder servo. I mounted the first deck on with some mounting blocks glued to the deck so that I could screw down the deck from the sides with three screws per side so that way the client will be able to remove the whole decking assembly to access the hull interior if need be.    

Magnificent, This model is not an easy build, so my hat is off to you. I have built three Constitution kits and the model Shipways kit to me is the best hands down. On the three I built, I would contact the Constitution museum gift shop and order several pieces of wood that they had replaced on the Connie during some of her repairs. I would use this wood to make several pieces on the ship.

The drive system that Tony was working looked like a nightmare to continue with, so I decided to make it a little easier on myself and not try and re-invent the wheel here. So I ordered a 90 degree geared drive system from Cornwall. I will check it out and see how it works, if I don't like it, then I will go back to the rubber "O" ring and pulley system, which is what is recommended from Dumas.

I got the decking laid down, stained and seal with resin. I got a lighting kit in the mail I'm going to check out as well. I also have all the paddle wheel sprockets all sealed as well. 

Like I said in another thread, unfortunately I'm a sucker for unfinished models. The only thing that is keep peace in the household is that I promised my wife that both the Creole Queen and the Barrel Back would be sold by the time I finished them and actually I have deals on both from the same client, who purchased the 1954 Chris Craft Commander from me a while back.

Here is another wayward orphan that I picked up that some good intentional soul I'm sure bought on a whim with all the good intentions in the world of finishing it and just never did due to I'm sure like most for various reasons. I'm told this poor soul passed away before completing it. By looking at the discolored blue prints I would have to say that had to have been many years ago.

Now to the project model, a 1940 Chris Craft Barrel Back which has been on my to do list for ever. So I couldn't turn it down. The planking, which had been 75% complete was questionable at best, I had to completely rip off one side of the planking and start over, which I did. The rest of the build looked good.     

Yeah me too.

I can't really call this a build log because I didn't start the build, I received this partially built Creole Queen from a friend over on the east Coast of Florida. The original owner and builder had health issues and had to move away and could no longer finish the Creole Queen. I had not to long ago retired from ship and boat building, but being a sucker for a unfinished boat project, I just had to take on the project and due to the original builder being famed builder Tony Lombardo, that was like icing on the cake for me.

Here are a few pics of her as I received it. I started out by staining .5mmx8mm limewood strips with red mahogany stain and applying them to the decks. This was not allowed for on the kit, but I hate painted decks on boats, that to me is like a cop out. Next, I will look at drilling and installing the three rudders and rudder assist fin which goes up towards the middle of the hull, which assists in turning the boat.