Jack12477
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Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
DeHavilland Mosquito FB Mk VI by Danstream - Tamiya - 1/48 scale - PLASTIC
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Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
Spindle chair by kgstakes - 1/12th scale
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The Mossy Shipyard by Bryan Woods - 1:1
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US Constellation 1798 by Jack12477 - Artesania Latina - 1:85
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1958 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa by CDW - Hasegawa - 1:24 scale - PLASTIC
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Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
DeHavilland Mosquito FB Mk VI by Danstream - Tamiya - 1/48 scale - PLASTIC
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Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - OcCre - 1:32
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HMAS Sydney IV by RGL - FINISHED - Academy - 1/350 - RESIN
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Correction: after reviewing my collection the Surface Dogs come with 4 dogs per set which is sufficient. But the Wonder Dog and Hold-Down only have 1 item per set, in practice two are needed so I recommend two sets of the Wonder Dog and Hold-Down. -
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US Constellation 1798 by Jack12477 - Artesania Latina - 1:85
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Thanks Gary. Yes the miniature worktable and accessories are great, well worth the purchase and useful on 1:1 projects as well . I would recommend getting two sets of Surface Dogs and two sets of Wonder Dogs. When I bought mine I quickly realized I needed two sets of each.
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US Constellation 1798 by Jack12477 - Artesania Latina - 1:85
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US Constellation 1798 by Jack12477 - Artesania Latina - 1:85
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Did I ruin my brush?
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
Did I ruin my brush?
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Ryland Craze reacted to a post in a topic:
Did I ruin my brush?
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Did I ruin my brush?
Jack12477 replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Make sure you clean the brush with soap/water/solvent as best you can before you wire brush it. The wire brush is used to remove any remaining paint build-up from the bristles and to straighten them. -
Did I ruin my brush?
Jack12477 replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
My son is a professional painter, when he cleans his brushes he also uses a wire brush to get the paint out of the bristles, brush from the handle straight towards the brush tip. Use the small brass brushes. The wire brush does not damage the bristles. You can also use Artists soap, it's like a saddle soap. See example below
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Beautiful! Fantastic color / photos
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Congratulations to everyone ! 🥳
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Yea, but that's cool ! 😎 Beautiful results Craig, very impressive 👏
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Thanks Alan ! Yes these miniature tools are proving to be very useful. Especially the 1:12 work table with the miniature clamps, stops, etc.
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And "the snail" continues along. Next up was the 3 decks (trestle trees) for each mast, Fore, Main and Mizzen. Once I figured out the drawing "codes", i.e., 219-220-221, 245-246-247, 269-270-271, on the same picture really meant, Fore, Main, Mizzen, I was able to cut all the parts to length, glue the subassembles together, square the ends of each subassembly with my Veritas Miniature Shooting Plan and Shooting board, and finally glue all the subassemblies together. After insuring everything was square I photocopied the deck templates to use to scribe the curvature and mask the holes for the upper rigging. Then I installed the balusters and railings. I also added the ring and supports to the lower part of the foremast, still have to construct the Main and Mizzen. Photos below: Squaring the subassemblies, assembling deck and squaring the ends Completed decks for Fore, Main and Mizzen Masts with railings The Veritas miniature work surface and Shooting Plane and Shooting Board (right hand plane) To be continued (with interruptions for yard work, raised bed vegetable planting, et al )
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Man, does that shine !
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Amazing model ! Fantastic detail ! Especially that California license plate. Nice touch.
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I'm curious Eric. How do you "sculpt" your rock faces/outcroppings? Carve by hand ? Use rubber molds like those available from Woodland Scenics? Will you be covering this in more detail in subsequent posts?
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Looking really good Eric! And I do remember the paper towels in runny plaster, very very messy. The plaster cloth is a great n improvement.
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I sort of deduced that from their appearance in your photos. They did look like L-girders. When I built mine I was surprised at how strong they were in terms of how much weight they can carry, yet be light enough to move the table around when needed. Your discussion of the history is most interesting.
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When I built my N scale layout, I used the L-girder design for the framework (you could screw everything, into the inverted leg of the L from below, such as the 1x3 cross members). For the top we used 3/8 inch plywood or sometimes 1/4 inch, glued to 3/4 (5/8 ??) Inch thick Homasote then the cork roadbed was tacked to the Homasote. Build a simple L-Girder
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