DaveRow

Bowsprit Continued... More views about the Bowsprit. Dave R

Thanks for looking in fellas to the progress. Pat, I agree, be very careful of the Bowsprit - I have knocked it a few times before I glued it in place. I was considering extending my board and add a post either side about the end to protect it ! The fellas in the shipyard fitted the Bowsprit in place a few days ago. Following this, the Inner and Outer Gammoning, Bobstays and Shrouds were made and fitted in place. Side view of the longer(than AOTS) Bowsprit, some 10ft(50mm at 1:60 scale) with Jib Boom retraced. More by good luck, the bumpkin, shroud, cats_head junction worked out fairly well. Shroud thimble and hood fabrication: Bobstays underway: Cats-eyes for the spirit yard support: Close ups to follow..... Dave R

More Bowsprit Collar work: So I made up the Fore Stay and Fore Preventer Stay Collars with 7mm hearts. I have the Jib Boom retracted well back down the Bowsprit, with the 2 stay hearts over the Jib Boom. So bit of an error(ok a big one) here, need bigger hearts as they will look out of place(very high) when boom extended. I hand crafted new wider hearts so each will sit over the Jib Boom, which will allow it to slide through the heart cheeks, from the outer to retracted position. Test fitting a new heart. Stained and I'm pretty happy after a few hours work in making the special hearts. The Fore Stay and Fore Preventer Stay Collars fitted with hearts, ropes, seizing in place over the retracted Jib Boom. It gets pretty busy where all the collars go. I suppose it is about time I bite the bullet and permanently fix the Bowsprit to the bow, 2 x gammoning to hold and rope off the 2 x Shrouds, 2 x Bobstays. Dave R

BowSprit Collars Had the boys in the shipyard turn their talents to the collars on the Bowsprit. We tried a few types of collar joints at first to see how they would work to the scale and in the confined spaces on the Bowsprit. From left: splice joint; which at the rope size didn't come together too well, scrap this one. butt joint with seizing cover, join too bulky for my liking double loop join(with heart, & loop) takes up a lot of room on the Bowsprit A trial heart collar on the Bowsprit. Not quiet happy with the room the join takes up. The rope from Chuck works well, and wraps around very neat when serving. I decided to butt joint the rope ends for most of the collars. Each joint will be hidden by the Lashings. 2 x Bobstay Collars & 2 x Shroud Collars fitted loosly on the Bowsprit The supporting gadgets I use to hold blocks, rope etc. so I have hands free to do the important bits. Bobstay & Shrouds in place, taking shape. 2 x Bobstay served and in place, fixed to stem and ready for hearts. If you look carefully you will see the joint at the end, in the loop on the end. This will be covered by the lashings. More on next post. Dave R

Looking good Mr Shipcarpenter. Welcome to the Endeavour Build Group. If you haven't already, can I suggest go though and find the recent logs of Endeavours under build. Great builds to have a look at for ideas and details to confirm to your kit plans are up to scratch. So many differ. I agree with ca. shipwright, work out now how the masts are to be stepped now. Will be watching with interest your progress. Dave R

Must feel good getting the ports out of the way Dashi. Keep the shipwrights on their game. Dave R

Enjoy the weeks travelling. She will be waiting in the shipyard to be worked on again soon enough. Dave R

Taking Pictures, My photographer brother in-law told be about depth of field, to get more in focus. Two things you need to have: Tripod Camera to adjust the shutter Speed and Aperture I hope I explain it right and it makes sense. By increasing the Aperture(F), this increases the depth of field, allowing more of the subject area(main and background) into focus(included in the picture). Commonly called increasing the "F" Stop - you may of heard this term ? On the camera I use(Nikon D5000) I set the "Mode Dial" to the "A" for Aperture mode. So your going to manually adjust the Aperture and the camera automatically compensates(adjusts) the shutter speed. I use the "command dial" to increase the Aperture Number between F16 to F22(it actually decreases the aperture size). The larger the number the more depth(in focus). However there is downside.....(isn't there always) The higher the "F" stop the slower the shutter speed("S" for Speed), to let more light in through the small aperture hole. Therefore I set the camera on a tripod to steady the camera for the slow shutter speeds. The camera needs a tripod as the shutter speeds drop way down to like 1.3 seconds. Near impossible to holding a camera steady whilst the shutter stays open for that long. Apart from manually setting up the above. First is to Frame the Photo(zoom in/out) to include what you want in the picture, then focus(usually by pressing the shutter release halfway) on the main point/s you wish to highlight. My camera beeps when it finds the focus. Do we want to get into when a flash is needed ? I set my camera to Auto-Flash. Dave R

OMG, WOW, WT.... Great work there Greg. The level of detail is reeeealy up there. Dave R

Bumping around the Bow in the Shipyard Some time ago I bought a Serving Machine from Domanoff's Workshop. After assembling it, I was unsure how it would go using it. It is the manual version, mounted on a block of pine so it doesn't move about so much. After some adjustments, it served it purpose(bit of a pun their) guiet well. I got the hang of tensioning the serving twine and letting it wind around the main rope. I finally got to put it to use by making the bumpkin shrouds and tackle. These are the first attempts for the double strops at the end of the bumpkins. I initially used the larger 5.5mm cats eye blocks first, which after making the whole 4 sets of shrouds, were way to big. I pulled them off and used 4mm cats eye blocks and remade the lot. This rope work is a craft by itself I reckon. I enjoy doing it, and can see it is going to take many long ours to complete the whole rig - in for the long haul(just hope my eyes last that long) Bow with Anchors, Cats Heads and Bumpkins. Dave R

Hi Pat, The 2 x Cathead I found at: Cornwall Model Boats CB2326 Cathead 'Crown' (2) 1 £0.73 Come in Pkt of 2. I saw them when I bought the extra Anchors. The shipping cost from UK isn't too bad either > £2.20 for a small packet. Lot more from USA. Dave R

Like the roughtree rail layout Dashi. Nice touch on the stern rails, flush. I made my stern like the Replica, stepped at the corners. Also it lifted the rail slightly higher over the bashed stern on my Endeavour. I completely redesigned it from the Corel plans. Dave R

Anchor Tackle: Made the lifting tackle for the Anchors; attached to the Cats, ready for placement to the bow. I hand fabricated the hooks and used black card around the block to replicate a metal strap around it. I'll have to chase up some gold paint to touch up the end decals. My crude red highlights are not up to scratch. Dave R

Your a Master Fixer Upper Pat. Dave R

Anchor Update # 3 ? Finally after some re-work of the ring Puddening, we''ll ship these anchors aboard after the painters wrap things up. Update: 10 July 2016: Painted: I applied a coat of clear over the whole anchor for protection. Dave R

I might try the next Anchor Ring with 0.25mm or close too this. It seemed a bit too thick. Hi Pat, Version #2 Updated this post with thinner twin/rope for the wrapping. I paid more attention to the wrapping > neater. Dave R

Back in the Shipyard - Anchor Update. The 4 anchors have had the ring added to each. I used 1mm brass rod to fashion the 4 rings(8mm dia), welded closed on the shaft end. First attempt of the wrapping, "Puddening" - where I used 3 lengths of rope wound at an angle about the ring. Difficult to keep it close and tight about the ring. 1st "black" wrapping "seizing" added as well. 3 "black" seizings added. I even managed to use some fine sewing twine around each each seizing to hold the 4 wraps close. If you zoom in you may just wee it. First Anchor with Ring and Puddening finished. The first rope(diameter) for the wrapping may be too big ? Supposed to be 0.4mm(3" circumference actual.) 3 more to do. Finish paintwork. Dave R

OMG Dashi, You must have trouble sleeping at night over the tiller design, and fixes cook instructed during the voyage. I'll stick with a conventional "as left the dock" version, ready to be tested on the high seas. However I do like the effort you go to. Dave R

Hi Mike, Your going fine. A few errors along the way, however Rome wasn't built in a day. I spend hours at times not producing a thing, just working out how to do something little, that may have a huge impact on something else. I constructed my Endeavour stern best I could at the time. It is different to others I know. One thing I did a long time ago was to photocopy to scale the deck and side views from the AOTS book. I have copies of these on the wall and loose to take dimensions from(lots of dimensions to check, double check, and so on). The Corel plans(mine are gathering dust) are no way near the AOTS details. For me(Shipyard), it has been 26 months and nearly completed the hull and fixtures. Enjoy, I do. Dave R

In the Shipyard - Anchor Update. Following on from post #431 I received the new anchors I ordered end of last week. What I ended up using(with modifications) for the 4 Anchors are: These are very similar to the style as depicted in the AOTS. Main difference being the flukes are not set back at the ends, thought I could live with this, however now that I am writing this piece, will modify the ends to a spike. I suppose the anchors had a spike to "dig" into the bottom. For the 2 Sheet/Best Bower Anchors: Caldercraft # 87049 Modified: 5mm off the shaft to give a 67mm shaft(13' 2") 71mm wide stock (14' 4") Fluke overall 45mm(4' 5") close enough For the Small Bower Anchor: Caldercraft # 87049 Modified: 7mm off the shaft to give a 65mm shaft(12' 10") 69mm wide stock (14' 0") Fluke overall 45mm(4' 4") close enough Stream Anchor: Caldercraft # 87021 Modified: 5mm off the shaft to give a 48mm shaft(9' 3") 52mm wide stock (10' 3") I filed the end of the flukes to reduce the overall width to 34mm, should of been 32mm but close enough(3" 1") So the lengths(n' n") are same as in the AOTS. The stock lengths are the Shaft Length plus 4"(half the ring diameter of 8"). These are slightly wider by 2mm. I forgot to trim them back, which I may still do(drop saw them off) Where did I derive this from ? Steel's - Anchor Rigging Section The length of the stock is the length of the shank and half the diameter of the ring. The depth and thickness in the middle is as many inches as the stock is feet in length. The ends to be kept square, half the depth or thickness in the middle. The upper-side next the ring is always kept straight, as is the lower-side half the depth on each side the middle; and thence it tapers to each end in the above proportion. It is necessary to leave an opening in the middle of one inch and a half, between the two pieces, that the hoops may be driven nearer the middle, in case the stock should shrink. Stocks rough fitted to the Shafts: Stock ends held whilst glue dries(just used CA) Gluing the stock half ends and onto the shaft. I had small 0.5mm spacers either side of the shaft to keep a gap between the 2 stock halves. ~1.2 inch gap(ref. above) Packing the stock rebates 2 of the shafts needed packing to the stocks, as the rebates were cut deep. Steel's description of the fixing of the stocks: "STOCK is composed of two long pieces of oak tapering from the middle, fastened together with iron hoops and tree-nails, and fixed on the shank transversely to the arms. " Tree-Nails and Hoops I added 4 small nails about the centre of the stocks/shaft, 2 per side, facing opp. The other 3 holes per end I used pin off-cuts driven through. Aim was to simulate the tree-nails. One(1) stock has the 4 "hoops" on it. The ends hoops are ex. 1mm wide square brass tubing and the middle 2 hoops ex. black card wrapped about. Nearly finished Started undercoat with satin black. May go for a gloss black final coat ? The rings are yet to go on, along with the Puddening. I am wanting to keep the stocks with the timber finish, with clear over them. When I was looking at the photos I noticed a huge ? minor ? mistake. The Small Bower Anchor stock is too wide. Should be more the same width as the 2 Sheet/Best Anchor stocks. Bla bla bla. May get away with it as it is. Not the energy to fix it at the moment. Well the shipyard is closing down for the weekend. All deck hands, shipwrights on shore leave. The Brother in-laws 60th in Newcastle-NSW. Dave R

Nice finishing touch there Ron with the case. Hope the house comes together for you and the family. Dave R

Thanks Dashi, I have made the 6 rear tackle sets for the carriage guns over this weekend. Good practice on the small blocks before the larger tasks ahead. Dave R

Double Rum rations yes, well deserved. And same for me Pat.! The rigging station is working out really well. I keep adding little extras along the way per each type of block/tackle I make. Mass production of similar tackle sets is quiet fast now. Last Friday I added a sliding tray to the bottom for the small bits'n pieces, clips etc. Your Main Yard was something else. Dave R

The Rigging Center is getting busier. Mounted the rope I received from Chuck recently on the top rail, ready for more serious rigging(to come). I made several spools from largish cardboard tubing, added ends and some dividers, wound the various sizes of 6m rope lengths onto the spools. Dave R

Adding the Gun Tackle and Breech cable to Cannons I decided for now to attach the Breech cable to each of the 6 cannons. All the 2 pairs of tackles completed: 6 left hand and 6 right hand. Mock up, how the cannon with tackle and breech cable will now look in place. The "pull rope"(that's what I call it), is set beside the cannon frame either side(if that makes sense) "In the box" tucked away. I have had enough for now, of small tedious eye blinking magnification work. Put all the parts aside for a later fixing session. Dave R