JSGerson

Once satisfied, a piece of decal paper was taped over the hole left by a trial cutout because this is where the name was going to print. Once printed, I let the paper sit for a while to insure the ink was properly dry. Then two light coats of decal spray was added and let dry. The decal was then trimmed very close to the lettering.

Instead of applying the decal directly to the model, I elected to make a nameplate, a plaque as it were, out of 1/64” Holly and applied the decal to that. A coat of Micro Sol, a decal solvent, was added to ensure adhesion to the wood as well reduce or eliminate the decal edge.  

Stern Nameplate

This is a slight detour from the head rails due to a discussion on the forum by sport29652 (Eric) on his difficulties of applying lettering to create the ship’s name on his Rattlesnake, I realized that I had the same problem: How does one get the name on the model? Eric tried dry transfer (rub on) lettering with satisfactory results, but whether he was satisfied or not, I don’t know. His work surface was larger than mine because I had added some horizontal molding across the transom. Getting lettering straight with proper kerning (spacing), justification, not to mention choosing proper font and sizing is no easy task on a plain, white, flat surface, like paper. Doing this on a wood surface, restricted space and on a model boat is not easy. In my case, I had to rule it out due to the small confined space on my model.

A second choice was vinyl lettering. It gives the illusion of raise lettering. The problem here is that the choice of size and fonts is very restricted especially with very small letters. My lettering needed to be about 2mm.

I took a third route: homemade decals. The range of fonts is huge and size is not a problem, plus the computer can adjust spacing, justification, and kerning. All one has to do is print it to the proper size on decal paper, spray the decal coating on, let dry, and apply.

Here is how I did it. I chose a font that approximated the font used by Model Shipways. Mamoli had a metal part with the stern windows, name, and carvings. Harold Hahn’s drawings didn't show any name. I typed in the name in Word, doubled the kerning to add space between the letters, and gave it a slight curve baseline. This was printed on paper and check for size. 

Thanks. On a change of subjects, did you add the "RATTLESNAKE" name to the stern and if so how? If not are you planning to, and how?

Once the molding was made, the backside of the rail was sanded until the stem end tapered as shown on Hahn’s drawing. I didn’t want to make the tapered end too thin because I was afraid it would become too fragile; so only about .01” was removed. A notch was added where the rails meet the deck and everything was then glued into place.

Based on the Hahn plans I made the molding cut narrower and shallower than what the Practicum showed. I believe Practicum’s were larger was because of the way I did it versus the Xacto knife method Bob Hunt used.

The rails have a molding a little different than the cheeks. This subtle difference required that my pseudo router rig be modified. The ball bit was changed to a trapezoidal bit because a square cut was required on each edge. Because the isn’t any mechanism on the rotary tool stand or the X-Y table to minutely adjust the height of the cutting bit, the fixed wedge was changed to a sliding wedge to make those adjustments by moving the work surface vertically a relatively short distance. Using the fixed wedge setup and moving the X-Y table would not have worked to do this because a restrictor pin was required. The pin restricted the depth the bit could cut horizontally into the wood. The X-Y table adjusted the pin relative to the bit without affecting the height of the bit. Hopefully the diagram and photo below will make this clear.

The stretched view was then printed and compared with the original reduced plan to ensure the height sizes matched. Remember, I only stretched the image horizontally; the vertical dimensions did not change. In my case, I had to reduce the printed image a little bit. Between the scanning and printing the overall size of the image was not maintained. Two final prints (one for each side) were made for templates which were then rubber cemented onto a piece of ¾” x 1/16” boxwood. The boxwood piece was not part of the original wood package but was sent to me from HobbyMill when I was making the two interior bulkheads some time back. The Practicum stated to use 1/16” stock, but did not specify where it came from.

Back to the Head Rails

When viewed from the side, the head rail forms a sweeping arc from the bow to the tip of the stem. From the top it is straight and tapers toward the stem. None of the plans from Harold Hahn, Mamoli, or Model Shipways shows the head’s true full scale shape. All of them either show a top down view or an elevation (side) view. The rail is foreshortened in the elevation view. The Practicum tries to address this by having you reduce Mr. Hahn’s plan 90% instead of the 72% or 75% as before in order to increase the size so the template would properly fit.

My 3 in 1 home copier/scanner/printer cannot do reductions or enlargements so that option was out. Even if I could, I wouldn't do it this way. Yes, you may get the proper length, but now the height would be larger as well.

While I was still employed (up until this time last year) and still had access to my company’s copier, I made a number of piece-meal legal size copies of the reduced version of Han’s plans so that I could cut them up to make templates without ruining the original reduction version. Using one of those copies I scanned the bow section into the computer. On the scanned image I drew a line (red) on the rail in the top view. This was the true length of the rail. This line was copied, rotated till it was horizontal and placed on a second copy of the scanned image. The second scanned image was then stretched horizontally until the elevated view length of the rail matched the horizontal red line. Now I had a true length of the rail without any vertical distortion to be used as a template. You can see how much longer the rail is when compared to the green reference lines.

In pre-computer days, I made a lot of forms for use in my office, I drew every line by hand and lettered all the text with dry-transfers (rub-on). Multiple copies were then made on the Xerox machine. I know from experience how difficult it can be to get the proper kerning (spacing between lettering), letter angles, as well as proper line justification on nice flat smooth paper. To do this on a wood surface, in a cramped space that curve, on a model boat to boot, is no easy task. My hat is off to you.

In my case, I think I might try making a decal. Because I included two molding strips that go across the transom, the lettering would have to go in between them. Applying dry transfers here would be very difficult if not impossible. First I would plan to print the name on a piece of paper to check for size, placement, font selection, etc. and then create the decal. The results are yet to be determined.

I don't mind a bit, in fact I encourage it.

I may be working on a tricky part now, the head rails, but as I think I mentioned before, I am very apprehensive when it comes time to work on the masts, yards, and rigging. So I am following a lot of people, including you Martin, on this part of the model construction. I have the luxury of time being unemployed/retired (depending whom I'm talking to) to work  pursue my hobby more than an hour a day. So take your time Martin just so long as you document it, so I can learn from it. 8-)

Jon

Hawse Port Reinforcement Boards

This is a real simple item to construct. Using the last of my wood package’s 1/32” x 3/16” boxwood (I hope I don’t need anymore) two pieces were cut to size per side. One end of each piece was “rounded” and dry fitted for any alignments. They were then glued one on top of the other directly above the wale and against the stem. A 3/32” hole was drilled right through the hull and bulwarks near the outer end of the shorter board piece. A coat of Poly-wipe was then applied.

I did a quick search on the internet and although you can get vinyl lettering down to 2 or 3mm choices of font and color are limited. Ill be curious to see how you do.

Now that you mention it, I've got the same lettering problem myself. On my previous boat the Evergreen, I made my nameplate using a homemade decal.. By typing the name of the boat in whatever style/font and color I wanted (except white, you can't print white) on the computer, I could then print it in full scale size on decal paper which I got at my local hobby shop. Then I applied the decal coating (usually from a spray can) and let dry. It was then applied like you would any decal.

But if you wanted raised lettering, that's a boat of a different color. One modeler I read about somewhere used vinyl lettering (as opposed to rub-on).Due to the scale, the letters appeared raised. The first trick is to find the right style/font, size, and color. The second, is the task of applying to the model with precision otherwise it will look awful. 

Flattery will get you everywhere!

Jon 

If you look closely at Hahn's plan, you can see remnants of the carving design on the lower cheek (I couldn't on the upper). What I interpreted was some of the same carvings that were on the transom hence my "fancy" carving. My apologies for calling the fox a wolf. Who could tell from my carving? I could have called it a dog!

The two pieces that made up the lower cheek were constructed in the same manner as the upper cheek except the carving on the stem piece was different. In addition the wolf carvings and the masthead, made at the time the transom carving was done, were installed as well.

Thank you for the response. I will certainly look into get my hands on the book. I look forward to your photos.

Jon

It's easy when you're a life long bachelor, forced into retirement (I got laid off just as I turned 66. I had planned to work till I was 67), no commitments, no dependents ( if you don't count the cat), and all the time in the world to do what ever. Actually I only put in a few hours a day, sometimes none, and others I just contemplating the sequence of actions needed to perform a particular task with no actual physical work done. Some might call that day dreaming!

I've accomplished more in the last 12 months due to the "retirement" than I did in the four years prior. Yeah, I've been at it about 5 years. Looking at what needs to be accomplished for the masts, yards, and rigging I'm guessing another 2 years and that no including finishing the hull. At the rate I'm going, I figure I've got one more boat in me to complete and that's the Conny. After that I'll probably be half blind, feeble, no patience, and yelling at kids "get off the lawn."

The upper stem cheek was fabricated the same way as the wale cheek using a card stock template rubber cemented to the 1/8” x ½” boxwood I purchased from HobbyMill. Using my “router” setup, two grooves were cut about 1/3 the length of the lower portion of the cheek so as to continue the grooves on the stem cheek. Most of the remaining area was carved with a chevron design as shown by the Practicum. The Hahn plans don’t show a good image of what it really is supposed to look like. The tip of the stem cheek is formed into a scroll to match the stem shape. 

I am getting to the point soon were I will be building my Mamoli Rattlesnake longboat for my model. Although I am following Bob Hunt's Practicum as my "bible" as this is my first plank on bulkhead boat in 30 years. I never did finish that one. I plan to deviate from the Practicum and not use the boat shell provided in the kit. I purchased the Model Shipways 108mm boat kit MS0107. It just seemed like fun thing to do. I am not all that familiar with the "methods advocated by the late Ewart Freeston in his book Model Open Boats " or "W E May's book The Boats of Men-of-War ."

What kit manufacture did you use?

Did you use the boat supplied by the kit, or did you scratch build? The Mamoli's boat is a rough carved shell. I don't know what Model Shipways supplied, but suspect layers to be glued together like the kit I purchased.

What has me a bit confused is that you stated "The plans of the Rattlesnake show a correctly proportioned longboat, but the lifts do not give the same result and there’s absolutely nothing that can be done to rectify the errors. The hull is too narrow, particularly towards the stern, and she lacks sufficient body for a longboat." If the kit plans were correct, where you stating that the boat parts were not?

Anything that you can guide me along would be greatly appreciated

Glad to have shared the idea.

The only other tiny shapes I have are the cone and tapered cylinder. Now if I can only find actual itty bitty router bits to do corners and fancy edges, we could really do some fancy stuff!

The idea was to make a router-like set-up without using a router bit. As shown in the diagrams below, if I set up the piece to be cut directly on the drill table, the bit doesn’t bite into the wood. The shaft blocks the bit from touching the wood. However, if the work surface is tilted then the bit can cut the wood. Additionally, by moving the work surface left or right using the x-y table, the bit can be adjusted up and down relative to the work surface due to the wedge. The wood is then ”routed” by hand. With a little experimenting and practice it seemed to work.

NOTE: I have a new pocket camera (Cannon SX160 IS) with a terrific built-in macro capability. Now I can show you my screw ups in excruciating detail!

I made a new rig to create the moldings. Using one of my globe “dental drill bits” that I bought from Livesay’s when I was carving the transom ornaments a while back, in my rotary tool, the tool was inserted it into the rotary tool “drill press.“

New week. - The upper wale cheeks were first made out of card stock then transferred to the 3/32” x ¼” boxwood.

Thanks for the carving tip. I'm going to attempt another technique I made up first and will let you know its results.

Glad I could provide those photos of Pasi's build. I have all of them that he posted should you need them.

As a side note, I bought a new computer Saturday because of the problems I reported earlier. I didn't want to sink money into an older computer. But as it turned out on Sunday, I finally got the computer working properly and returned the new one Monday. As much as I would have like to have a new computer, that's $1,000 I didn't have to spend. Maybe next year.