Louie da fly
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Everything posted by Louie da fly
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Yes, I could have explained it in my previous post, but it was more fun to keep them in suspenders for awhile . . . Steven- 30 replies
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Very impressive! It wasn't till I saw that photo that the 1:25 scale sank in . . . Where do you find the room for all these models? Steven
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I don't know about other ships, but I do know that the main wale on the Lomellina (sank 1516, probably built 1503) was exactly in line with the main deck. But my understanding is that wales were effectively just thicker, heavier strakes, so other strakes would be placed in line with them. Steven
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They'd better be! Much more work in this model than $200 worth! Oh, no. Woodrat beats me hands down. From 1600 B.C.E. Mycenaean galley to 1440 C.E. carrack/nao - that's over 3000 years - still more if we include his 18th century Gros Ventre. But I think I can claim the widest chronological gap for two builds going on simultaneously. Steven
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Interesting. In New Zealand, the Maori dug-out war canoe is called a Waka, and the building process (including the ceremonial and religious aspect) was very similar to that of the Hawaiians - see John Allen's fascinating build at
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- Waa Kaulua
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You've done a beautiful job with this model. You can be justly proud of your results. Steven
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Thanks everybody for the likes, and Javelin for the comment. Brand-new No. 11 blade in a craft knife. Steven
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Change of plan. The decks are to be made of card, and apart from areas where they are open underneath, each will be supported by a layer of sheet wood, as thick as the distance between the decks. And the windows/portholes/whatever between decks will be cut into card and glued onto the sides of these layers of wood. The edges of the layers painted black, to suggest empty space behind the openings. Though I'm thankful to Grandpa Phil for suggesting clear primer, I decided to go with white enamel instead, so all the "white" bits will match in colour. I did a test piece first: The enamel (Revell tiny tin) turned out to do the same job of stiffening as the primer probably does - nice clean cuts. Reverse side with the openings marked out in pencil: And the "face" side: Here are the first two pieces: And all the components: Hull painted black, and the edges of the "tweendecks" structures painted white where they can be seen (except at the break of the forecastle - I'm going to try gluing card onto that face and see how that turns out. Note that the forecastle and poop actually weren't that high - the extra height was made up by bulwarks, but I've oversimplified the build (also I hadn't realised about the bulwarks till too late ). A little tidying up needing to be done, but overall I'm pretty happy with how it's going now. Oh, and the funnels (started with dowel and shaved it down to oval shape). Paint drying. Once that's complete I'll paint the characteristic black "hoops" at the top. Steven
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Titanic by Tsm209 - 1/100
Louie da fly replied to Tsm209's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
And here's another one - The Britannic under construction in 1914
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Titanic by Tsm209 - 1/100
Louie da fly replied to Tsm209's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
This site - https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=the olympic %2C titanic and britannic fan site - contains some Titanic pics I hadn't seen before. Regarding the shape of the stern, the one below is, I think, particularly instructive. Steven
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Nice to see you back again, hlipplaa. Steven
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Very good idea with the brass pin. I've certainly come across the same problem with things breaking off, and I ended up pinning items like this in place. Steven
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Sounds good. This kind of information is usually confined to archaeologists - to see it in a model would be of great value. Steven
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Yeah, I thought of that, but there would probably be gluing problems (I haven't used plastic sheet before) so I think card would probably be more suitable. Here are the hull and deck and intermediate (tweendecks) structures so far. The decks themselves I made from thin sheets of walnut but unfortunately they have "cupped" and I had to resign myself to heat straightening them. Then I remembered I'd been given some very thin sheets of (maple?) from cigar boxes. Nice and flat, so I'll be using them instead. Steven
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Nice idea, mate. This would work with plastic ones, too - so no probs with clamps getting glued to the ship (well, not if you use PVA glue, anyway).
- 24 replies
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- Ships boat
- Ships of Pavel Nikitin
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Looking good. I'm glad your bending technique is working for you. I started out that way but I kept getting burnt fingers from holding the wood in the path of the hot air - now I use a different method - I soak the piece of wood and then bend it over the barrel of a cheap soldering iron. You can get very good results that way (and don't burn your fingers - unless you happen to touch the soldering iron by mistake). BTW I don't know if they're available in the UK but in Oz you can get tiny clothes pegs from craft shops. I even managed to luck upon a set of plastic ones (much less chance of the peg sticking to the frame). Oh, and you asked for help with terminology - what the general public calls "ribs" are technically known as frames. Not sure about the correct name for the bench rails - are they the timbers that support the ends of the seats (known as thwarts, by the way, though in a large oared vessel such as a galley they are known as benches. No idea why the difference.) Anyway, this is coming along very nicely. Keep up the good work. And I liked your "save" for the frame that didn't line up with the others. Steven
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Nice work on the reef points and bolt ropes. Regarding Vikings using reef points -there's no proof either way; the earliest pictorial evidence I've seen for reef points is from the seal of the English town of Hastings from the 13th century. There's a fuller discussion in Woodrat's "Elusive Hulc" build log (post # 165 onwards) - well worth a look. However, Viking picture stones show a fascinating array of ropes attached to sails - the current theory is apparently that they were used to try to keep the homespun wool sails from stretching - https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Type-C-D-Viking-Age-stone-from-Hejnum-Riddare-The-clearest-example-that-the-dragon_fig5_287096117 Not suggesting you try to emulate this, but what a fascinating subject for speculation. As far as I know nobody's yet tried to model a ship with this rigging. I'd be fascinated to see somebody do it. Steven
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Thanks for the suggestion, but the main thing is that in future builds I keep in mind the effect of the wales' location on the planking so I don't make the same mistake again. Too late for this model - there's no way I'd be prepared to undo all I've done and start again. This is a "for future reference" issue. Steven
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Am I right in thinking you gave a talk on ship modelling to the assembled multitudes? (I've been trying to get some of the Ballarat modellers over to the Dark Side. So far not a sausage). Steven
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Did you meet Leigh from Ballarat's modelling club? He went along. Didn't come along to our next meeting - some story about feeling tired and emotional after the modelling exhibition. Steven
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