David Lester

Doug, you won't have problems with it being strong enough. I made something similar for my Armed Virginia Sloop. It doesn't even have the brass support rods and it works perfectly. I'm going to build this one for my PdeN as well. David

Good Morning, Working on ratlines this morning, I think I've just discovered, by accident, a useful little technique. I don't know if I'm alone in this or not, but when I apply a dab of glue to the knots, I always have trouble getting a good result. No matter how dilute I make the glue or how carefully I try to apply it, I always seem to get glue on the line itself, or dabs that are too big. Sometimes it dries white and sometimes it dries a bit shiny. In the past, I've touched it up with flat black paint and the result is often a bit messy. I've finished the ratlines on the starboard side, and this morning I decided that I was unhappy with about three or four of them on each mast and decided to redo them. I applied rubbing alcohol with a small brush to the knots to loosen them. Of course, it's nearly impossible to do this without some dripping down and that's when I discovered that a very light brushing with the rubbing alcohol is just enough to take away any glued look, but nowhere near enough to loosen the knots. I when over both sets of ratlines and I've ended up with cleaner result than I've ever had before. (Of course, if after my cup of coffee I go back downstairs and discover all the ratlines laying on the bench, I'll be of a different opinion.) I don't believe that will be the case however, and I was happy to have stumbled onto this little remedy for my problem. David

Thanks everyone for all the input; it's very helpful. I've looked at pictures of the Lynx along with many others. It seems that on a real ship when that sail is not hoisted, the yard is not there either. But on some, but not all, models without sails the modeler includes the yard. I guess is depends on how the modeler sees it. If the intention is to represent a ship where its sails are not hoisted, then you would leave it off. If the intention is to represent a ship with its sails hoisted, but for the sake of clarity on the model the sails are "invisible" then you would include it. I'll give it some more thought, but increasingly I'm leaning toward just leaving it off completely. Thanks again, David

I'm beginning to believe that the rigging for this yard is actually simpler than I've been imagining. It's been suggested in my other post under rigging questions that such a yard would be raised and lowered with the sail already in place on it, which makes sense to me. I think I'll seize a block to the mast near the top and seize a line around the centre of the yard. I'll pass the line through the block and belay it to a point on the deck yet to be determined. If I'm reading the plan correctly, it appears that there is a second block seized lower on the mast and a second line seized near the end of the yard, passed through the block and then belayed at the deck as well. Although the plan doesn't show such a line, I may run one from the top of this yard to the end of the main gaff, which will put some tension on it, which may be necessary to for it to hold its position. The similar model in this photo shows such a line. Thanks again, David

Thanks for the suggestions Lou and Michael. I'm beginning to believe that the rigging for this yard is actually simpler than I've been imagining. I think I'll seize a block to the mast near the top and seize a line around the centre of the yard. I'll pass the line through the block and belay it to a point on the deck yet to be determined. If I'm reading the plan correctly, it appears that there is a second block seized lower on the mast and a second line seized near the end of the yard, passed through the block and then belayed at the deck as well. Although the plan doesn't show such a line, I may run one from the top of this yard to the end of the main gaff, which will put some tension on it, which may be necessary to for it to hold its position. The model in the example photo a couple of posts above does have such a line. Thanks again, David

Hi Gregory, Thanks for the quick reply, however I definitely don't believe that the plan is just showing perspective. The other yards are all depicted at 90 degrees while this one is shown at a steep angle. Also, in my web searching I can find pictures that suggest this position is correct for this type of ship, but they don't show how to rig it, which is my dilemma. I do have the Petersson fore and aft book, but the details are quite weak with respect to this yard. Here are a couple of examples of what I mean. Thanks again, David

Hello Everyone, I've also posted this question in my build log, but thought I'd place it here as well. I'm restoring an old damaged model of a Virginia Privateer, which I understand to be an example of an American topsail schooner. I have a copy of the original plans and have been able to decipher most of the details, but one bit has me unsure. It's a yard near the top of the main mast and it appears to be mounted in an almost vertical position. It's not something I've come across before and it's unclear to me from the plan how to attach and rig it. I do know that where it's marked "A" it's indicating blocks. There are four shown. The one in the lower right (which actually represents two - p/s) is unrelated, but I'm not sure how to rig the other three, which appear to attach the yard in two places and have two lines which belay somewhere on the deck. If anyone is able to explain, or perhaps illustrate how to do this rigging, I'd be most appreciative. Many thanks, David

Hello Everyone, A little more rigging progress to report. I've finished the standing rigging and have just started on the ratlines. In an attempt to better control the tendency of the shrouds to pull inward, I'm trying the technique of tying every fourth ratline first. I've also drawn vertical lines on the paper guide where the two outer shrouds lie. It seems to be working quite well. By coincidence, the lined notepaper that I'm using is spaced exactly the same as the plans. The lines are on 6mm intervals, as are the plans. I do have a rigging question that I hope someone can help me with. I'll also post this question under the rigging forum. The plans show a yard at the top of the main mast and I have never run across one just like this before. I assume it's unique to this kind of vessel -American topsail schooner. It's nearly vertical and it's very difficult to decipher from the plan how to attach it and how to rig it. I do know that where the plan indicates "A" that it's referring to a block, but apart from that it's pretty unclear what to do. There are four blocks "A" indicated. I know that the one in the lower right is unrelated (and it's actually a pair - marked "p/s") but the other three appear to be part of the rigging for this yard. Is anybody able to explain or even better illustrate what the setup is? I'd be most appreciative. I think I've figured out most of the other bits, but this one has me stumped. Many thanks. Thanks again, David

And then there's always my way - "measure once, cuss twice." David

Good Morning Everyone, Thank you for likes and comments. Before starting the standing rigging, the last thing I did was address the trailboards. The port side one was missing altogether and the starboard side was badly damaged. It was painted on cardstock and was delaminating. I was hoping to save it, but it's pretty bad, so I painted two new ones. This kind of painting is not my forte, but I think they're similar to the original, so that will be ok. There is also a similar decoration for the stern, which isn't in bad shape, so I have returned it to its position. The upper left is the damaged original, the upper right is for the stern and the two lower ones on my new ones. There is some kind of grommet on the original, which I have imitated with a blackened brass ring and a hole drilled through into the hull. I then started the rigging. I have the standing rigging on the bowsprit done and am starting in on the foremast standing rigging. You can see my copy of the original plans in the background. The original is a blueprint. When Bill sent it to me, I had a copy made at Staples. I wasn't sure how well it would turn out, but it came very well. These plans are very difficult to decipher, but all the information is there. It just takes a bit of patience and determination to extract it. I'm using black line for the lanyards on the deadeyes for a couple of reasons. The first is, the original had black line and I'm trying to stay as true to it as I can, and the second is because the deadeyes themselves are black and are of very poor quality. I know that many deadeyes are poorly drilled, but these ones are especially bad with very inconsistent placement of the holes. It's almost impossible to get a decent looking job. The black line will minimize the imperfections, whereas a light contrasting colour would emphasize them. That's all for this morning. David

Hi Don, Boy, that stern filler block is an interesting bit. It seems like a good way to get the round profile though. It essentially serves as a form, then when it's served its purpose, you simply carve it out. Looks like it's balsa; I bet you're glad you resisted any urge you might have had to use some old oak that was laying around. David

That's looking pretty good Doug. I'm surprised at how finely detailed those gunport hinges are. They're really nice. As for your missing one, I know I'd never manage to successfully cut anything from thin brass. I'd be inclined to make one from card stock, roughly the same thickness as the originals. Considering it's just one, I think it will hold up just fine. David

Hi Derek, I'm not familiar with Washi tape, but going by your picture, it looks very much like Tamiya, which is what I use. If it's worked well for you before, then likely as you say it's just a matter of more burnishing once it's applied. Quite by accident I found the ideal burnishing tool. It's a pick from an old set of nut cracker and picks. I thought it might be useful as a pick, but it's too blunt to be of much use, but the back side is somewhat spoon-like and it works beautifully as a burnishing tool. The last time I bought Tamiya tape, the guy at the store asked me if I used the special dispenser for it. The tone of his question implied that I should answer 'yes' if I wanted to retain any degree of credibility, so I said 'yes', even though I don't actually have one. He said that if the tape is laying around it will pick up dirt on its edges and it will affect the outcome. I've never had a problem with this, but I suppose it's possible. Did you see the post today by Nic from Blue Jacket? He was dealing with the same problem as you on the hull of a model he's working on. David

Hi Derek, What kind of tape are you using? David

I just took my measurements right off the plans. I think the differences are virtually undetectable. I don't have other resources, so I've just assumed that there are similar differences on the real ship which are also undetectable. It didn't occur to me to do anything else. I don't think you will be disappointed with the result if you simply follow the plans. Some of the gunports are tight against bulkheads as it is, so it might be more trouble than it's worth trying to re-space them. For what it's worth, that's my thought on the subject. David

Hi JD, I also find these coils devilishly hard to make look half decent. The lightweight line just doesn't have the heft it needs to hang naturally. My method is similar to yours in that I use a jig to make the coil. I pretty much follow J Brent's method which he shows in the video below, but it has been only with many failed attempts that I can get even close to an acceptable result. While I don't think your coils actually look all that bad, one suggestion I might make is to make your coils a little longer, so that they're more elongated and less round, and make the loop that goes over the pin a little shorter. Let the top portion of the coil rest against, or even on, the pin rail rather than hang below it. When I belay the actual line to the pin, I only give it one turn around the pin rather than several, which leaves quite a bit more space for the coil to be attached separately. I secure it with a small dab of CA glue. (J Brent gives it quite a few turns, but I think it works better to leave as much room as possible.) I don't generally use CA glue on rigging, but this is one place where it seems to work well. I then make the coil the way J Brent does, bringing a small loop from back to front, which will be the loop that goes over the top of the pin. There will be a bit of trial and error here, spacing the nails on the jig, getting the right length for the coil. I also experiment with the number of turns around the nails, usually four or five. (I think a coil that is a bit too heavy, rather than one that is a bit too light is more forgiving in its appearance and gives a little more material to play around with, once it's in position.) I carefully lift the coil off the nails with tweezers, before having applied any glue and then apply a very small dab of CA glue on the back side of the coil at the top. I make sure that it's a very small amount to ensure that it doesn't wick through to the front, because it will discolour the line. I don't tend to use any diluted white glue on the coil, especially on the front because it seems that no matter how dilute I make it, it still discolours the line. I make sure the glue has set well before hanging the coil. I then put a small dab of CA glue on the rail, in front of the pin, place the loop over the pin and press the coil against the rail, maybe even pushing the coil under the rail in an attempt to get it to appear to be hanging straight down rather than sticking straight out which they tend to want to do. I leave long ends on the coil. Once it's secure on the pin, I cut the back one off short so that it can't be seen and cut the front one off long, about the same length as the coil. Here are some of the coils on my Constitution. The other thing, of course, is to not worry about it too much. Every ship that I have ever visited has coils hanging in a lot messier and haphazard fashion than most modelers would tolerate. Not sure if that's of help or not, and I'm not trying to suggest that I have the definitive approach (or result), but I do share your frustration with this aspect of any build. David

Good Morning Everyone, A quick update - I almost have the hull finished and will soon be ready to add the masts. I've painted the hull and I'm pretty happy with the colours. I didn't think I was happy with the Humbrol copper at first, but I've decided it's just fine. As per usual, I still have a bit of paint touch up yet to do. I've returned all of the details to deck, except for belaying pins. I had to make new fife rails and pin rails, as the old ones virtually crumbled. A couple of the channels had broken off, so I removed all four which make sanding and repainting a lot easier. I have them returned to the hull now as well, but I won't re-attach the chainplates until I have discovered their correct location once the shrouds are in place. Here's where I've repaired the major damage on the hull. Deck details are now completed. All of my colour choices are the same as the original, whether they're correct or not. The rigging will be a bit of a challenge. I do have the original plans, but as is often the case they aren't always very clear. I made extensive notes before removing the old rigging, but I don't believe it was necessarily always correct. So I will be relying on four things - the original plans, my notes from the old rigging, Petersson's book on fore-and-aft rigging and even Bob Hunt's practicum for the Pride of Baltimore II. I think that's enough to let me come up with a passable result, hope so anyway. David

Hi Dave, That all looks really beautiful. I don't think Mamoli had any idea how well their "Constitution" cross section could actually turn out when skillfully turned into something else completely. David

Congratulations Mike, I think you've done a great job. You're braver than I would be tackling sails, but you got a very nice result. I especially like the idea of a wire in the hem to shape the sail. The hardest part with a restoration is decided how much to leave as is and how much to re-do. I think you've found that balance beautifully. David

Mike, I can't say for sure what kind of wood the hull is made from. I believe that current solid hull models are usually basswood, so I think it's probably safe to assume that this one is too. The wood has to be soft enough to carve easily, reduce the thickness of the bulwarks and cut in gunports. The colour of the hull in the picture in my previous post is no indication, because what you can see is where I have removed the copper paint and the surface is somewhat stained. David

Hi Doug, It's looking great. I think this might be a very satisfying model to work on - It looks like it presents plenty of challenges but with a pretty big payoff. David

Hello All, Continuing along, I've turned my attention to refinishing the hull. I added the fife rails and pin rails to the deck, but decided that before I return any more of the deck details, I needed to get the hull done. It desperately needed repainting, but I was finding it impossible to get a decent job going over the old paint, so I stripped it all off. It went against the grain to do that and I know serious antique restorers would run me out of town, but I decided it was necessary to get a decent job. The original is not painted exactly as the plan indicates, but I've decided to paint it the way it was done to try to get some integrity to the original. It's black above the wales, then a wide swath of yellow and then copper paint below the waterline. Here I'm working on the yellow - a couple more coats needed as well as some minor touch up at the bow. As I mentioned in an earlier post, this Model Master Insignia Yellow is almost exactly the same as the original. The hull has been beautifully carved and is very smooth. I've also been working on the cannons and carriages. The cannons are brass, so I just shone them up a bit (but not too much). Even though I prefer them blackened, I'm going to leave them as is because that's the way they were done. The carriages are cast metal and the old paint was coming off in places. I stripped them all down and repainted them the same colours as the originals. I don't know if they're historically correct or not, but I'm trying as much as possible not to second guess the original modeler's vision. So I guess that's enough excitement for one Saturday night. If you'd told me 40 years ago that one day I'd be quite content spending a Saturday night painting a model ship's hull yellow followed by Midsomer Murders on Netflix, I'll say you were crazy, yet here I am nevertheless! David

Good Morning, A little progress to report and thank you for comments and "likes." I've focused on repairing the broken bow and painting the bulwarks. Here I've glued the two broken pieces back on. I'm glad that they weren't missing. It would have been possible to recreate them, but having them saved a lot of work. A little further along in the process - some replacement wood and filler. The new rail in place. I still have to add the triangular piece of grating, but it's going to wait until I'm quite a bit further along. It's very fragile stuff. How much to repaint, and how much to leave alone has been a question I've been grappling with since the outset. My first inclination was to try to leave as much original as possible, but I'm beginning to realize that almost everything needs to be repainted. Here I've done the bulwarks. I've used Model Master Insignia Red, which I think is a great colour and it matches the original almost perfectly. There were actually two different reds used originally. The bulwarks is slightly different than the deck furniture. I suspect I'm worrying about it more than the original builder did, for all I know he probably just dug around in his basement and used whatever he could find. I'm really fond of Model Master paints, their flat finish in particular. Unlike some other brands, it isn't dead flat; it has a low sheen to it that I think makes it the ideal finish. On Tuesday, I made the big drive to Dailey Hobbies, (about 40 min. drive) and stocked up on the basics plus the red and some yellow for the hull. I found Model Master Insignia Yellow, also a flat finish and it is a perfect match for the yellow on the hull. I couldn't find a Model Master copper colour. I did find some Humbrol copper enamel, but when I got it home, I didn't care for the colour very much. A spray metallic copper might be something I can find in a hardware store, so I'll take a look today. The cannons were not rigged on this model. I guess I could rig them, but the carriage are cast metal so it's not easy to do. Nevertheless, the original builder added small eyebolts at each gun port - you can see them in the first photo. I removed them all in order to paint and I'm inclined to leave them off. Until next time. David

Great to have those false timbers finished. I think you'll find that the biggest challenge of this build is now behind you. David

I can't believe you've started another one already! This should really be a fun build and the ship is such a beautiful one too. I'm looking forward to following. David