Ryland Craze

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SOLD
Selling various kits from my stash. Too many models, not enough time!
This Bismarck kit is new, and in the original box: $300.00
In addition, I am selling the two (2) aftermarket Pontos Bismarck "Detail up sets" as follows: 23001F2 Version 2: $224;  & 21001F1 "Advanced Add-On: $150.
The Pontos aftermarket kits are mainly P/E & machined brass, but also a stained wooden deck, brass propellors.
 
If you have the space for this HUGE model (52.00"LOA), this package is regarded as the ultimate build of this model.
I'll make a *deal* if all three items are purchased together.
 
PM me if interested.
Ron

 

It has taken about a year, but chapter 3 is complete.  Time in the shop will be less for a while as the Admiral and I get going on the gardens etc.

I have a Blue Nose model I built In 1976 using cheap “model airplane” glue and spray paint. I built a plywood box for it and carried it around in our many moves while in the Army, exposed to all kinds of things. Other than dust since it’s now on top of a cabinet in my work shop, it doesn’t look much different than when I built it. 
 
I doubt my 10 models or the ones I build after them, and not counting that one, will be valued heirlooms by my kids. So I’ll just enjoy them while I’m here and not be concerned about their archival quality. However, so far I’ve experienced zero problems with the better quality CA and Acrylics I use now. A fun discussion but I have no expectations of a call from the Smithsonian 😁  

A thread full of opinions for sure!..... I couldn't resist, its been one of those days.🙂
 
Michael

i dont care what happens to my builds when im gone, infact if i did not post on the forums then apart from my wife and doggie, no one would know they even existed
to that end, checking the ebay, it is full of model ships that have been handed down to people that dont want then,  their fates are sealed and will end in landfill, i doubt many non museum pieces will exist after 100 years, as we all start to live in smaller and smaller properties
 
on the other hand, i love what i build and proud that i made it, not built for a time span other than my own
 
 

Ok, I've fixed the Artesania Latina link.
 
Also, I received a kit from them last week which I'll review in the next week or so.

A small diversion from ship building and planking.  Watched a video on YouTube of a guy building mini Japapese tool boxes. After getting a few screenshots of his process I decided to wing it and build one for myself.  Took an educated guess at his dimensions and started winging it. Not too shabby for a first attempt.  Photos follow: 
 

Box is some poplar I had in the stash. I sealed it with Danish oil.  The box ix 9" L x 4-3/8" W x 3-1/2" D

The engine was a bit fiddly but came together nicely I think.  

I sincerely thank the words of encouragement as I continue to struggle. I’m trying to take my time and really understand what I am doing on this one.  The bulwarks have pre-notched lines for planking and I’m not sure they help or hurt a novice like myself. Putting a plank on...work on the other sub-assemblies...repeat. I need more clamps...

Well,
I did it. I ordered the Model Machines saw. I figured the Hyuda was just a copy of a good saw and I would be replacing my junk with more stuff that I would be unsatisfied with early on or down the road. I don't think there is any comparison really to the horsepower (or fraction thereof) of the Jim Saw and the small DC motor and I really liked the idea of having someone right here on MSW that will, should it be needed, support his product. From what everyone has written, the Model Machines saw will be working still when my bones are dust. The other thing that threw me was that I was considering trying to build my own. Locally and as far away as Saudi Arabia I have been quoted 250.00 and upwards of 320.00 for just having the aluminum top milled! You can see the logic! I ended up ordering the micrometer stop, the extended rip fence, adjustable miter gauge extension, accessory pack and a 3 inch Martindale .03 slitting blade. Soon I will be able to use my existing saw as a anchor for my Winchelsea  Any changes you guys can think of? I wish I could have grabbed the sliding table but I still haven't told my wife about the saw. I gotta be real nice in the coming days  Before I forget, thank you for your input on this old subject. I truly appreciate it
Ron

I added floorboards to the inside of the hull.  I had a little trouble getting them aligned and parallel.  Afterward I thought of a way I could have done this better.  Isn't that always the way. 
 
I aligned them (or made them parallel) by eye, but I could have put small shims between them to keep the distance between floorboards the same.  First photo shows the floorboards.  Lighting in photo makes them look lighter than they actually are.
 
Then I started working on patterns for the bow and stern platforms.  I saw how the platforms have notches, and I knew basswood has a strong tendency to split.  To avoid this problem, I glued the planking strips to a 1/32 sheet piece of basswood crossgrain.  The planks run one direction, and the grain on the sheet runs 90 deg to them.  Afterward I sanded bith sides so the total thickness was about 1/32".  
 
Laminating two pieces of basswood with wood grain 90 deg to each other reduces its tendency to split.  It all but eliminates the problem.  This is a common solution to the problem when building model airplanes with balsa.  Balsa splits easily also.  The 2nd photo below shows what this looks like.
 

The next step is to add molding strips below the side friezes.  I tried to round the 1/32" square strips on the two outside edges, and I painted them white before gluing to hull.  After gluing to hull, I ended up sanding them slightly less than 1/32" so they matched up with the cap rail better.  I added a little molding under the frieze on the bow stem.  All this required quite a bit of touchup paint.

I had little trouble gluing on friezes along the side.  I decided to use cement glue.  I didn't like the idea of spray adhesive on such small strips of paper.  It worked out fine.  I suspect almost any type of glue could be used.
 
The stern frieze was more difficult.  It took several tries to get a pattern, and then a couple of tries to get the real one to fit.  I'm very glad the kit included two copies of the stern frieze.  
 
Here's some pictues.  For whatever reason, photo doesn't show the frieze continuing on to the tip of the bow, but it does.  

It's been a while since I added some photos, but I've been slowly working and making progress.  These pictures show the cap rail after it's finished and painted.  I don't think I got it quite as narrow as I should have, but I was starting to hit the inside frames and there's not a lot left on the outside of the hull.  
 

Blocks move easily in both directions. A free-turning block makes the work easier because the friction is low. Deadeyes, on the other hand, aren't intended to move freely. Friction is a good thing in a deadeye. Deadeyes, having no moving parts, are also somewhat easier to manufacture than blocks and they are stronger because they distribute their load more. Blocks carry their entire load on the sheave axle. Deadeyes are adjusted when first "setting up" rigging or when taking up the stretch in new standing rigging after it "settles in," but aren't otherwise generally intended to be adjusted periodically. The lee shrouds will be slack and the windward shrouds tight when the ship is under sail. They change places every time the ship is tacked. Nothing is done to the deadeye lanyards when that occurs.

I had replied earlier but it seems to have not been saved...
Thanks for your comments Garthog, they are appreciated.  As you know I also enjoy photography, at least I did before Covid and will again after.  In this case though all my photos are done, with a little help on arranging the lighting, by my iPhone 12 Pro along with some basic Lightroom editing.  The iPhone almost matches my DSLRs in quality and is always handy as I work.

Thank you for your comments. Yes, you've shared your approach a couple of times on your log and mentioned your concern over lathes on my log before, though this is the first time you've included your photo here. I will endeavor to provide a detailed response so that we might put it to rest, at least here.
 
I've successfully used the hand drill on my 9 prior models without incident, doing no more than holding it in one hand and the sandpaper in the other. No roller blades bearings, stands or tail stocks were needed to quite successfully make masts and spars of any length. I'm not sure how many I've turned of varying sizes on my 9 prior models but its a lot. I'm sure the handheld method is one done by many people, in fact I think @Chuck mentions this approach in the monograph we both follow in building Cheerful.
 
I've posted the photos of the main mast and bowsprit I turned on the lathe. To this point that's all I've used it for of any consequence, I'm not as far as you on the build and have yet to apply it to spars and booms. You could check out @DelF excellent log on his build of Speedy, he's been quite successful using it for all his work - at 1:64th scale. I am quite pleased with the smooth, well-shaped, identical to plan pieces my mast and bowsprit turned out to be.  I have none of the scratches you mention as my final step is to run a very fine sanding stick up and down the piece solely to smooth it and of course the WOP and paint do the rest.
 
To further try to answer your specific question, and perhaps better answer a good one asked by @BobG, I experienced a great deal of wobble when I first put the main mast in the 3 jawed chuck, however I determined I'd just set it poorly in placing the 4 sided stock into the 3 jaws of the chuck. I adjusted and reset it better and found I had little to no wobble at all. What little there was was easily eliminated by holding the far end lightly (so as not to burn my fingers) as I applied the sand paper with the other as I described in my post. I'm fairly confident that the main mast is the biggest, literally, challenge and the smaller spars and booms will go easier - as surely I've seen in Derek's posts on Speedy. I initially thought I might need a tail stock but of course the mast and even bowsprit are longer than this inexpensive tool's base, and it turned out I didn't need it at all and haven't looked back. I might add I think the lower revs may have also helped.
 
In the little experience I've had I've found the quite stable base, the constant revolutions of dial set variable speed, the low and centered weight of the lathe overall, the well designed hold of the 3 jaw chuck accessory (a mandatory addition I think), and a purpose built motor to be a smoother, easier, steadier approach than the re-purposed hand drill I've used in the past. You seem quite content with your quite elaborate home made stand and I'm glad it works for you. For me the bearing in the middle would be problematic in the way in the approach I use to create the taper as I traverse the whole piece to keep it all evenly tapered, shuttling the sand paper up and down as needed to get the required diameters. I need access to the whole piece at once.
 
In short, hand drill by itself, home made holders for one like yours, or lathe are all acceptable ways and all work to one degree or another. I'm pleased with my $198 Proxxon DB 250 lathe. I prefer it to holding my drill and find it does a great job with none of the problems you listed. Should I shatter a thin spar, I'll load up another one until I get the practiced touch to do it right.
 
I hope this answers your questions.

Guns and life rafts added 

Hi All
 
I registered here a few years ago and I will be honest I fell into the habit of starting and then moving on to other plastic models ( Discovered the old Airfix, now Dapol locomotives and built some of them) 
 
I built the AL  Hermione and it took me 2 years and it is HUGE.  My wife wants shot of it as it takes up half the shelving space in the bedroom.  I did the AL Swift which is a fabulous kit and I am really happy with it.  Not too big and looks really good.
 
I am doing Le Reynard at the moment and into the rigging stage.  Just deciding if to do it with sails or not. 
 
I find my biggest problem on all my ship builds is joining the planking to the bow of the ships. I bend the planks enough, but butting them up to the prow just looks a right mess and I end up filling the gaps with wood filler. Practice/Practice/Practice
 
Hope everyone is staying safe and well.
 
Cheers 
dave 

Just an FYI
 
Some of you may have noticed that some of the eye bolts on the bulwarks for the gun tackles are in fact secured to a hanging knee.  Rather than being secured into the bulwarks.   SO.....for chapter six,   when we are installing the guns, we will also need to install some of the hanging knees.  In order to do this I must prepare the laser cut parts for the deck beams and knees so that you guys can add them.  I am working on that now.
 

 
While waiting for these parts,  I must also point out an error I made for the number of hanging knees and lodging knees on the Qdeck.  Those many years ago I added hanging knees and lodging knees to all deck beams in the great cabin.  This is not correct based on the contemporary model for the Winnie and other primary sources.   Its a wonderful thing to have such a detailed example with the Winnie contemporary model.  It actually shows all lodging knees.....
 
So I have redrawn and corrected the knee and beam placements.   You wont have to print this and could easily use this PDF as a guide for placement of all the knees.   See this PDF attached.   Its a nice handy reference guide with all knees identified and labeled which will correspond to the laser cut parts when I get them done.  I have also added this to the downloads page.
 
beams and knees.pdf
 
Remember these knees are optional.....if you plank the qdeck like this below you wont see any of the knees.....so these laser cut parts will be made available separately along with the deck beams....
 
This way those who dont want to add them can save a few bucks.   Also note the sides of the deck beams painted red....but not all of them.  In the partitioned cabins they remain bright. 
 

Thanks so much Tom.
 
I have progress to report, but not what I said it would be. I didn't like how I was doing the port lids, so I switched to the ladders and then some other things. The ladder kits are great and make up nicely. After mounting them, I did the bulwark cleats and staghorns. Having done those, I decided to do the bulwark eyebolts for the cannon tackle. I left out those that will be drilled and mounted through the knees. Having done those eyebolts, I then decided to make up and add the deck ringbolts, which the plans show in two different sizes, as well as the eyebolts at the main mast partners. 
 
After completing that work, I began work on the head by painting the black areas in preparation for doing the actual head work. Sooner or later, I will get back to the lids.
 
Bob

Good evening everyone.
 
So many new builders starting off it's hard to keep up. It's a fantastic project. Good luck everyone!
 
I went for a rustic brick finish on the base for the stove.
 

 
I've started the deck planking. It feels like a really big step. When its done the majority of the "construction" bits  - the plywood - that need to be concealed will be concealed. 
The "tabs" are tricky and nowhere near perfect but they are as good as I could have hoped for and I'm  pleased.
 

 

 
I can't make up my mind about painting the comings. On balance i think I prefer them natural (too late to change my mind now anyway) though it may not be historically accurate and it is undeniably a lot of bare wood.

 
For the margin planks I tried edge bending  (It's asking a bit much I found), cutting from a single piece and cutting three pieces to make up the curve - so as to follow the grain. I went with the last.
 

 

 

Some fireships were, indeed, old clapped-out vessels. Others, like the Comet pictured above, were purpose built as fireships. And yes, they were decorated as other warships were. Clive (post #2) is correct.

Hi Joseph and welcome to Model Ship World.  It is nice to see another Virginian on this site.  The Hampton Roads Ship Model Society is close to you.  Check out their website by clicking on this link: HRSMS Website