hornet
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Everything posted by hornet
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Have a read of the post from Paul Garcia on this link from another modelling forum. It made me think about the marketing practices of MicroMark. The follow up comments on the thread are also very interesting. http://www.network54.com/Forum/47211/thread/1354040989/Micro-mark+rivet+decals+in+the+U.K
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Brian, do you have messenger enabled. From my end it says the massage has been sent but not read by you. I've never had a problem sending a message before. Not sure what the problem is otherwise -
From what I have read on this site and on links provided by members over recent weeks, it seems a pity MSW can't ban certain tool companies just like some model ship companies are banned. It seems as if much of what is sold by micromark is either dodgy, dangerous or ripped off from another reputable tool company. I will certainly never buy a micromark product no matter how big a bargain it is.
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You may also want to shape and glue a couple of pieces of ply under the front and rear of the main deck ( part 21). There is quite a lot of flex in it where it butts up to bulkhead 8 at the stern end and bulkhead 3 at the bow end. I have also sent you a PM with a few pics and some other ideas I have used in my build so far.
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My preferred support when planking is single malt whisky.
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Blackening Very Small Pieces
hornet replied to FredSC's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I have just used Birchwood Casey to blacken the photo etched dead eye straps for my HM Supply. I gave them a rub back with some fine emery paper first then soaked them briefly in the lid of a plastic take away container. They came out fine. Much easier than painting. Thanks for reminding me David!!!! I also soaked in white vinegar after rubbing them back - before soaking in Birchwood Casey -
Hi Bryan. I am somewhat ahead of you on the same build. Am about to start work on the masts and yards. Have done a fair bit of bashing of the kit though. My only comment at this stage is that the supplied timber for the second layer of planking is quite brittlle, rough and splintery, particularly on the edges. You will probably need to go through the whole lot and disregard some of them. Luckily Caldercraft provides more than enough to complete the job. I also found a very good example of this ship in the online exhibit from the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney. It is worth a look if you are considering any bashing. Use the Museum search facility - enter HM Armed Brig Supply - 24 hi res pics.
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Interesting thread. Whatever you use - other than some sort of filler material - would need to be able to be pulled through a drawplate such as the one produced by Jim Byrnes, otherwise scale would become an issue. I prefer to stick with bamboo myself.
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I usually collect a small container (I use old 35mm film canisters) of wood dust from whatever wood I am using at the time. This is mixed with a small quantity of PVA glue to form a paste. This can be used to fill small 'tack' holes. I also bought a cheap set of palette knives (used in oil painting) these are good for applying the paste to the hull. Agree with Druxey though, invest in some planking screws or search this site for some home made ones. There are a number of ideas around.
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I sympathise with you about the walnut planks provided by Caldercraft. The rest of the kit components and the plans are good but I found the walnut planking on my Caldercraft Supply to be of poor quality as well. I have the Caldercraft Endeavour and Bounty on the shelf and the walnut strips provided for them are no better. You say you are drilling out the gunports. I am wondering if you are using too large a drill bit for this, and that is why the planking is splitting. I would experiment on a piece of scrap with a very fine bit such as a 1.0 or 0.8 mm. Drill about a 1 mm inside the final dimensions of the gunports and finish off by sanding.
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Not sure quite what you mean Joshua, but clamping the wood in a vice then wrapping your sandpaper around a wood block should allow you, with slow and steady passes, to achieve the angle you require. You could also consider scribing a line and sanding to that to ensure you get the desired angle.
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Hi Michael. Check out the discussion about waxing rigging line on this thread. Hope it helps you. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7480-wax-for-rigging-lines/page-2?hl=waxing
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Made up this simple rack for holding clamps when drying painted parts. Pics are self explanatory.
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Silver soldering - Copper vs Brass
hornet replied to rtropp's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I have a torch similar to Bob's. I have been using a product called Harris Staybrite Silver Solder - liquid flux and wire solder. I have successfully soldered copper strips, brass wire and tube together to make gudgeons and pintels and a variety of other brackets. I am not an experienced solderer by any means but I haven't had a failure yet. The whole lot came as a set at my local electronics store and was only around $50.
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Tips and Tricks for Airbrushing
hornet replied to JPett's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Richard, I use about the same air pressure for the polyurethane/turps mix as I do for the acrylic (20 - 25 psi). Both are very 'watery' so apply similarly. I think it is just a matter of experimentation on a scrap piece of timber or something similar until you are happy with the way the poly mix is going on. I have just used a can of spray poly in the past but I have found that the dilution method using poly/turps in a single action airbrush gave a better result because the volume at which the mix is delivered is less. You just need to apply more coats. I think they dry more quickly too. In fact I have since bought a better quality badger single action airbrush to replace my super cheapie. Haven't used it yet but will soon be experimenting -
Blacken Brass
hornet replied to sailor jim's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
For larger areas this may have some merit. However for smaller one I think that blackening is the way to go. I use Admiralty Matt Metal Black (acrylic) on components which fail to blacken using Birchwood Casey - Take a look at Danny's cannon in the link on my last post in this thread. As he says, painting is unlikely to produce as good a result as blackening. -
Blacken Brass
hornet replied to sailor jim's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Have a look at this thread Sailor Jim http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9781-blackening-brass-problem/ -
I started out on the apple2+ in the early 80's. Also used machines called Microbee's that loaded program's via a standard audio cassette tape. These had an amazing 16 kb of memory. I cut my teeth on BASIC and well remember playing with config and batch files Mark. Never used 8" disks but still have some 51/2 " lying around somewhere. I think the old Apple II is now a collectors item. We dumped many, many of them back in the late '80s. I well remember my first HD. It was 20 mg and at the time was very, very cool!
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Tips and Tricks for Airbrushing
hornet replied to JPett's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I use Popsicle sticks, available cheaply in large packs, for the same purpose. The fact that they are wood and they absorb the paint in a similar way as model components helps me with fine tuning.- 39 replies
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Agree with above advice but would also suggest you add another 'filler' block on either side of the keel on the bow end. Given the condition of the keel at this point, I think it will make planking a lot easier. Just make sure you add it before commencing fairing in the bulkheads. The following YouTube clip may also give you some help with the fairing in process.
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Using the "Chopper"
hornet replied to jdiven's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Homer, I'm glad I bought one. It is sharp (as long as you replace the blades regularly) and it is good for repetitive light jobs such as cutting deck planking. Just don't expect it to cut thicker timber, it isn't designed for it. -
Using the "Chopper"
hornet replied to jdiven's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I have had one for about 12 months. It is good for cutting planks up to 1mm thick. Any thicker and I find that the blade tends to flex away from the timber being cut in such a way that it is impossible to get a square cut. I found it great for getting good, square deck planks but other than that it wasn't much 'chop' -
Brian, was it the quickset variety? It is pretty thin but sets very quickly.
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Tips and Tricks for Airbrushing
hornet replied to JPett's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Richard, if you are going to use an oil based varnish you might want to consider getting yourself a cheap single action airbrush to apply it. I bought a very cheap one for $17 an I apply a 50/50 mix of satin polyurethane and low odour turpentine. I find the cheap single action is fine for this job and it is easier to clean out an oil based product from it than it is from my more expensive double action sparmax DH103.- 39 replies
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I try to keep my use of CA glue to an absolute minimum and use only the gel variety (except when fixing copper plates) I have found that quick set PVA glue such as selleys Aquadhere Quickset ( not sure if that available outside Australia) dries enough to hold almost any wood in place in about 2 - 3 minutes. When glueing planks around a bend such as a bow, I use a small amount of CA gel on the end of the plank to give an instant bond and apply Quickset PVA to the rest of the plank. One 500 ml bottle of this PVA Quickset normally lasts me for at least 2 builds.
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