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Ronald-V

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About Ronald-V

  • Birthday 10/22/1983

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  1. Lovely work on your ship, and what a nice workplace!
  2. Yeah know what you mean...we all go through fases in a build
  3. Thank you! And thanks everyone for the likes, really appreciate it.
  4. Little inbetween update: I wanted to give a little update to show what I'm working on, so the post wouldn't become too long. The work isn't going very fast at the moment, but I'm making steady progress. I am now busy attaching the rails on both sides. First I wanted to tackle the seam above the front gun port. I had a considerable seam here and I filled it with a piece of scrap wood. Then I ran a knife through it to give the impression that it is a gunport lid. From this point I had to soak the front rails and attach them to the hull to get the shape in (without glue of course). First of all I removed all char from the laser. This by means of sanding stick, files etc. If you decide to remove the char beforehand... be very careful, you can bump into it in a careless moment and it breaks... Then finally apply some color to the hull. So that the rails will finish the lines nicely and you don't have to paint very precisely along a rail... ideal! For this I used "Admiralty Red Ochre" and "Tamiya Medium blue XF-18". I thought these colors went very well together (inspired by the HMS Jason from Beef Wellington here on the forum). I used a little masking tape where possible. This to make it a bit easier for myself with the painting. After removing the char from the rails beforehand, I gave it two layers of WOP. By sticking them on a piece of tape, the bottom was somewhat protected from oil so that the glue can adhere well. Plus it is also easier to handle when they are stuck on a piece of tape. The reason I gave them a WOP layer beforehand is so that the blue and red paint do not get under the varnish. I checked on a test piece beforehand whether I would like this... and I did not think it was really right. I thought the paint color became too shiny and the WOP did not absorb well into the acrylic paint (logical I think). That is why I varnished the rails beforehand. I noticed that the top rails didn't quite fit the counter, so I glued a small piece of scrapwood to the rails, sanded it, re-scored the lines with a knife and applied two layers of WOP. The end result is still not perfect haha, but these are fun little challenges in between (that take way too much time lol) The middle rails required me to make two small recesses in the upper wale. First marked with a small knife and then with a small knife carefully scored the lines on the side and then with a small chisel (I ground a small screwdriver down to a fine chisel) very carefully removed the middle wood. From this point on I also finally got a better camera, so hopefully the pictures will be a bit better. Here I clamp the middle rail piece. I glue it with diluted PVA. I diluted it so I have more time to apply it with a brush (otherwise it is already dry before I have spread all the glue on). And at this point I am now...kind of halfway through all the rails Sidenote: the little holes Chris put in the rails to get them in exactly the right place... genius!
  5. I had the same problem with my Sphinx, only the big difference was that it was my first planking layer and not the 2nd one. That is the disadvantage if you only have 1 layer...it has to be right straight away! But...it is nice that you are tackling it now, instead of looking at it later and not being satisfied.
  6. There are already some very good tips given above. What strikes me (at least it seems so in the pictures) is that the fairing of the bulkheads looks very minimal. In addition of course the tapering of the planks and side bending will help really well with the clinkering effect. The easiest way of side bending for was like the video below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atXqH0GWLL8
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