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Canute

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Smart move. You'd hate to have to dismantle any work you did while you were ill. As many others have said, there is no time limit to complete a build. You're doing great. Keep it up to your standards. And get rest and drink lots of fluids. This flu season is one of the nastier ones.
  2. Oh, boy, a Spru-can. I'm in. And a front row seat, to boot! And the host bought the beer. Bring over the popcorn maker.
  3. Piet, I have a little familiarity with resin castings and acrylic paint, being a model railroader. Acrylic paints may not adhere well to out of the box resin. Make sure the parts are clean, so wash in warm water with Dawn. It'll cut through the release agent from the molds. I've also heard of wiping down the unpainted parts with denatured alcohol. A good primer will help the acrylic adhere better. The blue painters tape could pull color coats off any unprimed resin, so lessen the tackiness by sticking it to your pants and then using it.
  4. Like Dan said, an ingenious way of building the frames. This is going to be a great build.
  5. Yeah, I like those radial engine fighters from WWII. But my fave is the Spitfire, all Marks. Sorry to kinda steal your log, Greyhawk.
  6. Piet, thank you for relating a bit of your history. I salute you. And I salute the crews of the ships of the ABDA command who went willingly to fight the Japanese, despite such long odds. It's like the Spartans at Thermopylae.
  7. Sorry about your loss, Jesse. We lost our Abby about a year ago. Lovely Golden. Take it slow and easy; get your strength back.
  8. Piet, I'll be following, too. It is an obscure portion of history. I read Cox's book to get an even-keeled approach to this chapter of WWII history. I, too, look forward to your construction.
  9. You may want to look at this site. It's for HO and N scale railroad equipment and may be too coarse. But it's brass and stainless parts: http://www.planomodelproducts.com/
  10. Yeah, the aftermarket products available are superb. That AK-130 main gun looks like it could actually fire. And your use of these parts is outstanding, Greg.
  11. Mark is right. Roughing up the spots where you apply the CA helps a lot. Wood can be problematic for CA, especially when applying on end grain. Tends to wick into the wood. Apply a first coat and let dry. This seals the wood for the CA. Then glue your parts together with a second drop of CA. I'm not a fan of CA glue for wood to wood applications; carpenter's yellow glue set up fast enough for me. CA is great for dissimilar materials gluing, like Britannia metal to wood. I'd still rough up the smooth surface and seal the wood, though. But, that's just me.
  12. With Floquil, if you can't smell the paint, it's dry enough to paint over. That is usually a few days; any sooner and the paint tends to retain brush strokes.
  13. That makes sense. When you look at pre-dreadnoughts, the decks have a number of coal scuttles for filling the bunkers.
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