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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Canute
    It is still an active log, Mark.
  2. Canute
    Well done, Jesse.
  3. Canute
    Nicely done, Wolfman. White Ensign has some good PE for ships. And your lighting work looks superb.
  4. Canute
    Mike, back then a lot of the control mechanism was exposed. We got smarter and built the control system on the inside of a metal aircraft. Nowadays, we have fiber optics going to the control cylinders of the flying surfaces.
  5. Canute
    Make sure it says Future on the label. I think in Europe it's called Klir. Like Don says, use the no wax formulas. For some added info, look here: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
  6. Canute
    Put your paint pots in some warm water before loading your brush. And don't let the paint freeze. Shouldn't have much of a odor issue with the acrylics, so store then in your work-space.
  7. Canute
    Pledge is the name of the acrylic floor finish once known as Future. If you read the label on one of the bottles, it may say "with Future". At least here in the US. Our armor and aircraft friends have been using it for years, especially as a clear gloss coat before decaling. Dip clear styrene in it to protect the plastic. It can also be used to seal your decals and then do some weathering using various paints. However, if you weather with powders, spray a dull/matte finish beforehand to hold the powders.
  8. Canute
    Jim, superb! The E model Phantoms are wearing the markings of my first unit in Thailand, the 469th Tac Fighter Squadron, 388 Fighter Wing at Korat RTAFB in Thailand. They're all great! Thanks
  9. Canute
    Jim, got any other Phantom paintings? I spent 20 years flying them for Uncle Sam's Air Force from the 70s to 91. Love the bent wing birds.
  10. Canute
    Jim, you really capture the "feel" of the place and time in your paintings. Like Lou and many others have said, I really enjoy viewing your handiwork. It's a great gift.
  11. Canute
    Greg, another interesting build. I vaguely remember studying this beast because of those missiles, while work for my Uncle Sam. I'm pulling up a chair, too.
  12. Canute
    Maybe a tad dingier on your rafts. Or hit them with an India ink/alcohol wash to bring up some of the detail. All your details look great.
  13. Canute
    Well done, Greg. They look great. Your weathering is superb. Guess we'll sit here with bated breath, waiting your next endeavor.
  14. Canute
    It's by the Lumberyard. The Lumberyard for Model Shipwrights Click the link.
  15. Canute
    Chicory has been used as a coffee substitute. Had it a time or two and it was kind of bitter. Like Greg's Subway wrapper idea.
  16. Canute
    Denis, you may want to try Tamiya Extra Thin plastic cement. I think it has MEK or Methyl-ethyl ketone. Works best on bare plastic, since we're welding the parts.
  17. Canute
    Like Carl says, I'd use a hot iron with a sharp point, unless you have a very small torch. I've only done electrical soldering, so favor rosin core solder. It needs some cleanup. There also acid flux, which requires better cleanups. A big torch might melt away the fine brass PE. I'm sure a lot of guys will fill you in on soldering technique. This is how I'd do it. Tin your soldering iron after cleaning the tip. Put a bit of solder on the tip to tin it. Nice shiny tip means good heat transfer. Clean and flux your joint. Shiny brass, then apply your flux. Apply the heat to the joint, then touch the solder to the joint. Try not to apply the solder to your iron tip. Heat on one side, solder on the other. Move the solder away and check that you get a shiny looking solder joint. If it's not, you made a cold solder joint, which is weak. Reapply heat and have your solder handy. Make sure you get a shiny joint. Clean up the joint; I might dip it in vinegar to remove the rosin and brush clean any excess solder. You may want to practice on some frets before launching into the FuMo 25, 26 and 27.
  18. Canute
    Do you prep the PE in any way before painting? Some brass may have a coating that can chip when the parts get bent.
  19. Canute
    One marketer is Ammo by Mig Jimenez: http://www.migjimenez.com/en/15-acrylic-colors
  20. Canute
    Well done with the new PE there, Carl.
  21. Canute
    Spent some time this past weekend working with some weathering tools. A soft lead pencil, say a 4 or 5, can add some definition, like OC said. Also used some watercolor pencils in various shades. Found out that Faber Castell pencils are a little softer than Prismacolor. Black and Burnt Umber are good for dark on light shading. And you can take it off with white vinegar or water. The vinegar will flash off/dry faster.
  22. Canute
    Eric, being an ACW Brown Water Navy fan, I'm in, too. Will follow with interest.
  23. Canute
    Like Jack says, gloss coat where you want the decals. Cut the decals as close to the color as you can and put it in some water. The decal slides off and you take a fine implement to lift the decal from the water and place it where you need it. Coat it with Microset and leave it alone. The decal may pucker up; don't touch it. After it dries check for silvering (where air gets trapped under the decal). Prick a few holes in the silvering and reapply the MicroSet. After all traces of silvering are gone, clean up any watermarks and apply a gloss coat.
  24. Canute
    Hmm, guess I can start the second tier, Mobbsie. Looks like a fun build.
  25. Canute
    Denis, nice work reviving an old kit. I like the various work arounds you've used to correct deficiencies in the fittings.

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