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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Canute
    Frank, your machining work is a thing of beauty.
  2. Canute
    Ouch, what hit that?
  3. Canute
    Yeah, I like those radial engine fighters from WWII. But my fave is the Spitfire, all Marks. Sorry to kinda steal your log, Greyhawk.
  4. Canute
    We're our own worst critics. I think your shading looks good, helping to bring out the details. Keep it up!
  5. Canute
    Ditto for me. You can still make out the planks and tree nails.
  6. Canute
    Piet, thank you for relating a bit of your history. I salute you. And I salute the crews of the ships of the ABDA command who went willingly to fight the Japanese, despite such long odds. It's like the Spartans at Thermopylae.
  7. Canute
    Sorry about your loss, Jesse. We lost our Abby about a year ago. Lovely Golden. Take it slow and easy; get your strength back.
  8. Canute
    Piet, I'll be following, too. It is an obscure portion of history. I read Cox's book to get an even-keeled approach to this chapter of WWII history. I, too, look forward to your construction.
  9. Canute
    Welcome aboard. Quality tools.
  10. Canute
    You may want to look at this site. It's for HO and N scale railroad equipment and may be too coarse. But it's brass and stainless parts: http://www.planomodelproducts.com/
  11. Canute
    I definitely like the color of your staining. Good job!
  12. Canute
    Yeah, the aftermarket products available are superb. That AK-130 main gun looks like it could actually fire. And your use of these parts is outstanding, Greg.
  13. Canute
    Mark is right. Roughing up the spots where you apply the CA helps a lot. Wood can be problematic for CA, especially when applying on end grain. Tends to wick into the wood. Apply a first coat and let dry. This seals the wood for the CA. Then glue your parts together with a second drop of CA. I'm not a fan of CA glue for wood to wood applications; carpenter's yellow glue set up fast enough for me. CA is great for dissimilar materials gluing, like Britannia metal to wood. I'd still rough up the smooth surface and seal the wood, though. But, that's just me.
  14. Canute
    Find a good woodworking ship like Woodcraft. They carry beeswax, too.
  15. Canute
    Samuel, I'll follow your build, too!
  16. Canute
    I'm in too. Quality kit and workmanship.
  17. Canute
    With Floquil, if you can't smell the paint, it's dry enough to paint over. That is usually a few days; any sooner and the paint tends to retain brush strokes.
  18. Canute
    That makes sense. When you look at pre-dreadnoughts, the decks have a number of coal scuttles for filling the bunkers.
  19. Canute
    Yes, the white glues dry to a clear translucency. The yellow carpenter's glues will definitely leave a yellow/tan coloration.
  20. Canute
    Nicely done. Like your map base, too.
  21. Canute
    Jan, I checked my Profile Morskie and Warship Profile booklets and both show the protuberance on the bow in the few post commissioning photos they have of the bow. The drawings also show it. I also have the STM version of De Ruyter, for a someday build.
  22. Canute
    To add to what Druxey says, reds and yellows are usually the most translucent/transparent colors. I'd use a white or light gray primer if applying onto a dark surface.
  23. Canute
    Go for the wood glue. It has some working time to allow you to reposition parts. Super glues set up quick, so you have to have parts set where they need to be. I presume you don't have a home products type store with things for do it yourself kinds of projects near your home?
  24. Canute
    Go Speed Racer, go! Well done, Grant. Love it.
  25. Canute
    Doc, I'm signing on, too. This is in my stash, soI'm interested in modifying the kit. Build on!.

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