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Posts posted by Canute
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Ben, I have a model railroader buddy back in Jersey who has an N Scale (1/160) resin version of the Edmund Fitzgerald. It's huge! Have fun with the build
- popeye the sailor, GLakie and BenF89
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frolick and Wayne, both sayings were and are true. It is how we react after that first contact that decides who wins or loses. Always have a Plan B and a Plan C and...
Just look at WW II in Europe with, as I think it was Churchill, calls the Battle of the Beams between the RAF and Luftwaffe with the radar/night fighter/night bombing battle. Or in the Pacific, Japanese night optics versus Allied shipborne radar.
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Nice work with the decking and quarterdeck bulkheads.
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That's what friends are for, mate.
- mattsayers148, GLakie and CaptainSteve
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They've been in use in model railroading for several years, automating track control and signaling. We used it to automate a display layout in one of our local museums. It started the train by blowing the whistle twice, ringing the bell and moving out. Did one lap around the room, doing appropriate whistle calls as required by railroad operating rules. I think the scripts these run are written in C++. And we've also used an arduino board.
- CaptainSteve, trippwj and mtaylor
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Jerry, that did. I laughed when I saw Kilroy.
There are some plastic model railroad window parts from Tichy and GrandtLine that might work for you. They're finely cast parts. Since they're plastic, you may be able to skew them a bit to fit your window spaces.
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Matt, very nicely done doors.That companionway looks great.
- mattsayers148 and GLakie
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Nice joinery there. Kudoes to the crew.
- mtaylor, GLakie and mattsayers148
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S.S Atlantus (sp) off the west side of Cape May, NJ off Sunset Beach. It 's a concrete ship. Can't copy photos, but you can see pix on Google Earth, search Sunset Beach, NJ.
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I would put the filler on the bare wood, sand it to your degree of smooth, recheck the filler, then prime the surface. A light sanding with fine grit paper or very fine steel wool and you should be good for your paint.
Your primer color should be white or light gray if you plan on painting yellows. These colors are more translucent and you'd need more coats of paint to get the color right. Not good with some acrylics, especially if you're brush painting.
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The resin plug issues are pretty typical for most resin cast kits. The molds are soft and rubbery, so the dimensions can vary by small fractions. Every rolling stock kit I've ever worked on had a lot of cleanup, truing and squaring. Check against accurate plans, said the novice to the masters.
Request permission to watch one of the masters.
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Matt, I'm sure between your design ideas and the Nuts Bros skills, those carronades will be primo! Keep it up.
- mattsayers148 and GLakie
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Cap'n Steve, that's one of those unwanted thoughts forever seared into my brain. Maybe some rum will wash it away... need a number for the Nutz Brothers.
- GLakie, mattsayers148, thomaslambo and 1 other
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18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Posted · Edited by Canute
Erik, good luck. This gang is very helpful. All you need to do is ask.