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Canute

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Matt, love the patterning and choice of wood colors. Good work. My compliments to Woodie and his crew(s). Dare you Splice the Mainbrace?
  2. Hope you didn't feed Tiny one of you "manly" cupcakes. Chocolate is bad for pups. Why not stain your wales black? Stain can be a good option vice playing with ebony wood. What's wrong with baking? I brew a little beer and bake bread occasionally.
  3. Ken, pretty much standard issue back then. We USAF aircrews had several other less "PC" names for them, too. I salute all veterans who served any time and any where. And to all my Viet Nam brothers and sisters, Welcome Home!
  4. Jim, Thanks for the mini-practicum.So many things to learn here.
  5. Grant, your little tutorial is excellent. The dimly lit light bulb in my brain just got lit up like a fireworks display. Thanks for that explanation for doing the beams.
  6. Very nice job on both the Bomb Vessel and the Pirate Pig. Hope the Pig floated upright!
  7. Yer last photo had some good looking pieces there, Cap'n. But don't ye be leavin' any o' yer blud on the scantlings, unless yer meaning to paint them bulwarks in Claret.
  8. Great catch on the plan profile. And a nice start on your build.
  9. Hi Jesse, your work is excellent. Syren will be a beauty.
  10. Bill, that's one handsome ship. And your detailing is excellent. Thanks for sharing.
  11. John, check a well stocked model RR shop. Preiser makes unpainted figures in HO scale, which is 1/87 scale. You may be able to adapt some. There are around 10-15 brands listed in the Walters HO Reference Book - their catalog. Check them out.
  12. Richard, take a look at this topic. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9150-readingdecoding-mamoli-rigging-charts/?hl=%2Bmamoli+%2Brigging+%2Bplans Bill is translating Mamoli's Italian instructions for rigging USS Constitution. But it looks like a good sequence. It may be TMI; however, it has some decent pictures.
  13. Harvey, you suffer from a case of TMB; that is, Too Many Birthdays!
  14. Matt, really like the distressing you did to the deck under the carriage wheels. Looks good.
  15. Matt, those cannon look great. Guess the Nutz Brother will have some alterations to the ports. Keep 'em working and out of the grog.
  16. Mike, you'll get plenty of help. Just ask in your build log. Folks around here are very helpful.
  17. John, I'd only prime if I was painting a yellow or red color. These are more translucent than the other shades we use. White or light gray primers under the yellow. You may also want to get some sanding papers with adhesive backing. And get some wood popsicle sticks or coffee stirrers. Make yourself some small, narrow sanding sticks. Cut the stick ends to shapes you need.
  18. OC, was the hull surface clean? If casting oils, release agents or dust are on the plastic, the paint won't stick. Get some dishwashing liquid and warm water and wash your hull. Let it dry and then paint. A good brand I like here in the US is "Dawn". No scents, cuts grease.
  19. John, I'd definitely seal the wood first. I've used Scalecoat(a model RR paint brand), that stuff model airplane builders use (clear dope and talc) and stuff from local craft stores (Michael's, etc.). Lately, I've used the craft store stuff; more sealer for less bucks! Apply and then steel wool it smooth. Should knock down your "furrys". Airbrush the Floquil: thin it to the consistency of skim milk. I think a 60% paint/40% thinner will do. Mix up a small batch and use the little cup to hold some of your mix.Test shoot it on some cardboard to see how it sprays. Do not pour the mix back into the original bottle! I haven't used retarder with solvent paints before so I've no clue. I use rattle cans for my primer so I can't tell you the correct mix. I have cans of white, light gray and red oxide (excellent hull bottom and brick color for structures)
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