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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. Welcome aboard, Mark! Some of my forebears were Dutchmen from Gelderland. They emigrated to Nieuw Amsterdam around 1650, before the redcoats took over the place. I look forward to seeing your projects!
  2. Welcome! You have to define "Northern California". I was raised in Humboldt County, and we referred to anything south of the Mendocino-Sonoma county line as "Southern California". 😉
  3. @wefalck: Thanks, I'll have to see if I can scrounge up a copy of that. @Adrie: The problem is primarily one of scale. The blocks are only about 1.5 mm in diameter. Each needs to have two lines going upward to connect to a davit, and another line coming down to attach to the boat. I haven't yet found a material for the lines that is suitably thin, durable, and preferably rigid. I'm sure such a material exists -- I just haven't found it yet! In many card kits, a simplified version of the davit and block assembly is usually provided; it normally has the lines between block and davit printed. The modeler then has to decide whether to leave in the white space between the lines or (shudder!) try to cut it out. This model does not include that option, and not all of the boats have chocks, so some of them have to be hung from their davits or else omitted from the model entirely.
  4. Here's a shot of the original kit davits with a scale bar drawn for reference. The tiny dots are the blocks. The laser-cut replacement davits have the same construction, only they don't need to be cut out or laminated.
  5. Thanks for the nice comments, everyone. @Reg: The canopy is a vacuformed after-market part from Halinski for their B239 kit. Such parts don't always fit on another manufacturer's model, but in this instance it worked out. The kit comes with both interior and exterior canopy framing, but since it is nearly impossible to get a good look at the interior framing, I settled for painting the back side of the exterior framing before gluing it to the canopy. It produced a satisfactory illusion of interior framing. I also used the optional laser-cut formers available for the kit. As Lou explained, the parts are pre-printed. KK printing is a step down from Halinski, as KK generally does a minimal amount of weathering on their models, but it is still pretty good. The thing I like about the KK kits I have built so far is that I have actually been able to complete them, whereas I am one for two on attempts at Halinski kits due to their much greater level of detail resulting in much higher parts counts.
  6. Okay, I have a problem. Several problems, actually, but I'll take them one at a time. I'm working on a 1/250 scale card model that has a bunch of ship's boats. The davits are laser cut, as are the blocks, but of course they're not all in one piece along with the lines. I have tried and failed several times to complete the davit assemblies (from which I'll eventually have to hang the boats, too) using wire or EZ Line. I'm out of ideas. Anybody have any new ones??
  7. The Buff is a personal favorite of mine because of its tough-luck story. It's true that the Buff was inferior to its primary opponents in the Pacific theater, but part of its poor track record there was due to inadequate pilot training, poor command and logistics, and a lack of intelligence on Japanese equipment and tactics. However, and this is the part I really like, the Buff racked up a 26:1 kill ratio with the Finns against the Soviets, and that is one of the highest ratios of any combat aircraft in history. That's why I originally wanted to build the Halinski kit, but good ol' cumulative error was the downfall of that build attempt.
  8. @Jack: No airbrushing -- it's a card model. I forgot to put that in the original title. @Lou: You're too kind, but trust me -- it looks better at stand-off viewing distances. 😉
  9. Hello, all! FINALLY, after four long, long years, I actually completed a model! After bungling my attempt at Halinski's Brewster B239, a Buffalo in Finnish colors and a very complex model, I set my sights on the more intermediate-level F2A offered by another Polish firm, Kartonowa Kolekcja. Having earlier completed KK's Polikarpov Po-2, I had a good idea of what to expect with this kit. It had a few tricky parts to navigate, but I was able to forge ahead. The kit includes optional parts to build either a simplified version or a more detailed one; I went with a mix of the two. I included the options for a full cockpit build (which is FAR simpler than the Halinski version) and complete engine, but left out the movable control surfaces and a few other minor details. The end result is what some would call a good "ten-foot model", i.e. it looks good from ten feet away, but don't get too much closer. I think I will be going back to a ship project after this. Enjoy the photos!
  10. It's possible that they may even have plan sets that you could use, for a price of course. If you do contact them, you might have to be a little patient in awaiting a response. As you said, such museums do often get a lot of requests for information, and they may be staffed largely by volunteers, so it may take them a while to process a request. As an alternative, I know that this ship has been offered in kit form by several companies. I can't tell you which version, if any, is more historically accurate than the others, but it's an avenue you could research. You might find that buying a plan set from one of those manufacturers is a more economical option. Cheers!
  11. Have you tried contacting the Viking Ship Museum itself? https://www.khm.uio.no/english/visit-us/viking-ship-museum/
  12. They just released a kit of their Skerry double-ender as well. You could be the first to do a build log of it. 🙂
  13. Hello and welcome. Have a read through the pdf sent to you earlier. Chuck will mention all the tools you'll need to complete the model. Cheers!
  14. A man has got to know his limitations -- but based on your previous work, I'm inclined to believe that it will be at least slightly classier than you envision!
  15. Ugh .. in card modeling we call this "error creep". I have suffered its dreaded effects on more than one occasion.
  16. Whaat?? I can't hit the "like" button for that! But then again, people have been waiting for 12 years for me to finish Fly, so I guess I can't complain.
  17. Take care with those red-carpet photos, as I have a sneaking suspicion that certain persons are drooling over the prospect of featuring this model on the MSW Facebook page!
  18. Yes, as you have learned, HMV does not include English instructions in all of their models, but usually clearly states whether they do or not in the product description. There should, however, be some sort of assembly sheets or booklet. Personally, I have never found written instructions for card models terribly helpful as they usually consist of language like "stick part 1 to part 2, etc., etc.", which is information one can easily glean from the diagrams. What can and sometimes is problematic is when a particular sub-assembly is not shown in a diagram or when a part is misnumbered. For that reason, card models always require a certain amount of puzzle-solving ability. BTW, I read German, and even the native-language instructions are not all that helpful. 😉
  19. Love me some Shipyard kit! Haven't built one myself, but I know that they are considered top-shelf products. Wishing you every success on this project!
  20. I built many Tamiya 1/35 scale armor kits back in the halcyon days of my youth. They all disappeared many, many moves ago.
  21. Glen, the only real preparation for doing a POB kit is to do a POB kit. Doing solid hulls builds up your skills for doing solid hulls, which is great, but POB is a different kettle of fish. A great way to find out what other beginners have actually successfully completed is to use our search function. Search for build log titles that have both "finished" and "first" (as in, "first build" or "first wooden ship model") in them. Certain kits show up more than others. Two examples are Model Shipways' longboat and Artesania Latina's Swift. Basically what you're looking for is a relatively simple subject (not simple kit, but simple subject) like a small schooner. The Corel kit that you mentioned is considered such a subject, but Corel is not known for either great materials or great instructions in their low-end kits. Take your time while shopping on-line and make sure to visit the manufacturer's website -- nowadays they often post some portion of their kit instructions on-line as a kind of preview. There's plenty of suitable beginner kits out there to choose from. Be sure to also consider the subject's aesthetic appeal for you personally -- it's hard to persevere with a kit of a subject that doesn't really interest you. Cheers!
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