ccoyle
-
Posts
8,762 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by ccoyle
-
You're in luck -- we have a number of Dutch members on this forum, and some of them are bound to be knowledgeable on this type of vessel. Cheers! -
That 4th frame forward looks like it is riding too high -- hope that won't be a problem?
-
A couple more hours of work in the books. This substructure is built like a flippin' tank (are you listening, Corel?). Not only that, but a lot of thought went into the design -- some of the parts that have definite left/right or front/back sides are designed so that they can only fit into the assembly in the direction they are supposed to go. I used Birchwood Casey bluing to blacken the metal parts. I'm now ready to start the final fairing of the hull prior to planking.
- 116 replies
-
- 15
-
-
Welcome,Andrea! As you are probably aware, very good practicums exist for both of those models, so you can't go wrong in choosing whichever one has the most visceral appeal for you and going for it. Cheers!
-
Hello, all! Welcome to my to-be-much-abbreviated build log for the Master Korabel "cannon jolle" (gunboat) kit. I say "abbreviated" because Jim Rogers already did a fine build log for this kit, which you can see here. You can also read my initial review of the kit in the reviews section of the forum. Part of my reason for choosing this kit is to show members that yes, I do actually build ship models on occasion! Here's a couple of shots of the very early stages of construction, only a few hours' worth really. So far I have not had any issues apart from being a little confused by the instructions once or twice. This is only to be expected in instructions that are translated from Russian, so no big deal. Having patience and thinking thoroughly through the process has spared me any missteps to this point. As you can see, the hull substructure has A LOT of pieces. It all fits together very nicely but snugly and locks up tightly once glued. The finished model will really be quite small, as the hull is only about as long as my hand. That's all for now!
- 116 replies
-
- 21
-
-
Hello, David. Be aware that Danny added a significant amount of after-market photo-etched (PE) detail parts to his model. This is really quite an advanced-level model by itself, and working with PE is another tricky skill to acquire. I think you would be doing yourself a huge favor by postponing your Bismarck build for a few weeks and having a crack at the card modeling tutorial we have posted here, based on a free downloadable model of the German V108 torpedo boat. It's a good way to get some card skills under your belt before tackling what is a very demanding project. Kind regards, Chris
-
New member from the cornfields of Illinois
ccoyle replied to Steve63's topic in New member Introductions
Hello and welcome, Steve. For your missing materials, try sending a PM to our member Daniel Dusek. His company, Dusek Ship Kits, took over the Mamoli product line. Regards, -
Not a bad idea, Adrie, and I do something similar for making thread railings. But I think that thread may actually be too thick for this purpose. I'll have a look at it, though.
-
I know -- I'm just looking for some I might be able to pick up on the way home instead of having to wait several days for it. Call it impatience (a sad trait in a modeler, I know).
-
Jan, I'm looking into some local cell phone repair shops. Apparently they use the molybdenum stuff.
-
Possibly, but most of the ones I am familiar with moved west either to Ohio or Ontario. Some of the ones that went to Ontario, presumably loyalists, eventually wound up back in the States. Couldn't handle the Canadian winters maybe?
-
Kind of off-topic question here, Nic, but now that Midwest has gotten out of the boat kit market, do you know if anyone has designs on acquiring that part of their product line?
- 64 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- laughing whale
- trawler
- (and 2 more)
-
Welcome aboard, Mark! Some of my forebears were Dutchmen from Gelderland. They emigrated to Nieuw Amsterdam around 1650, before the redcoats took over the place. I look forward to seeing your projects!
-
Welcome! You have to define "Northern California". I was raised in Humboldt County, and we referred to anything south of the Mendocino-Sonoma county line as "Southern California". 😉
-
@wefalck: Thanks, I'll have to see if I can scrounge up a copy of that. @Adrie: The problem is primarily one of scale. The blocks are only about 1.5 mm in diameter. Each needs to have two lines going upward to connect to a davit, and another line coming down to attach to the boat. I haven't yet found a material for the lines that is suitably thin, durable, and preferably rigid. I'm sure such a material exists -- I just haven't found it yet! In many card kits, a simplified version of the davit and block assembly is usually provided; it normally has the lines between block and davit printed. The modeler then has to decide whether to leave in the white space between the lines or (shudder!) try to cut it out. This model does not include that option, and not all of the boats have chocks, so some of them have to be hung from their davits or else omitted from the model entirely.
-
Here's a shot of the original kit davits with a scale bar drawn for reference. The tiny dots are the blocks. The laser-cut replacement davits have the same construction, only they don't need to be cut out or laminated.
-
Thanks for the nice comments, everyone. @Reg: The canopy is a vacuformed after-market part from Halinski for their B239 kit. Such parts don't always fit on another manufacturer's model, but in this instance it worked out. The kit comes with both interior and exterior canopy framing, but since it is nearly impossible to get a good look at the interior framing, I settled for painting the back side of the exterior framing before gluing it to the canopy. It produced a satisfactory illusion of interior framing. I also used the optional laser-cut formers available for the kit. As Lou explained, the parts are pre-printed. KK printing is a step down from Halinski, as KK generally does a minimal amount of weathering on their models, but it is still pretty good. The thing I like about the KK kits I have built so far is that I have actually been able to complete them, whereas I am one for two on attempts at Halinski kits due to their much greater level of detail resulting in much higher parts counts.
-
Okay, I have a problem. Several problems, actually, but I'll take them one at a time. I'm working on a 1/250 scale card model that has a bunch of ship's boats. The davits are laser cut, as are the blocks, but of course they're not all in one piece along with the lines. I have tried and failed several times to complete the davit assemblies (from which I'll eventually have to hang the boats, too) using wire or EZ Line. I'm out of ideas. Anybody have any new ones??
-
The Buff is a personal favorite of mine because of its tough-luck story. It's true that the Buff was inferior to its primary opponents in the Pacific theater, but part of its poor track record there was due to inadequate pilot training, poor command and logistics, and a lack of intelligence on Japanese equipment and tactics. However, and this is the part I really like, the Buff racked up a 26:1 kill ratio with the Finns against the Soviets, and that is one of the highest ratios of any combat aircraft in history. That's why I originally wanted to build the Halinski kit, but good ol' cumulative error was the downfall of that build attempt.
-
@Jack: No airbrushing -- it's a card model. I forgot to put that in the original title. @Lou: You're too kind, but trust me -- it looks better at stand-off viewing distances. 😉
-
Hello, all! FINALLY, after four long, long years, I actually completed a model! After bungling my attempt at Halinski's Brewster B239, a Buffalo in Finnish colors and a very complex model, I set my sights on the more intermediate-level F2A offered by another Polish firm, Kartonowa Kolekcja. Having earlier completed KK's Polikarpov Po-2, I had a good idea of what to expect with this kit. It had a few tricky parts to navigate, but I was able to forge ahead. The kit includes optional parts to build either a simplified version or a more detailed one; I went with a mix of the two. I included the options for a full cockpit build (which is FAR simpler than the Halinski version) and complete engine, but left out the movable control surfaces and a few other minor details. The end result is what some would call a good "ten-foot model", i.e. it looks good from ten feet away, but don't get too much closer. I think I will be going back to a ship project after this. Enjoy the photos!
- 15 replies
-
- 15
-
Our Emblem ®
