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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. Hello, Ab! I belong to the Paper Modelers forum as well, and there are indeed some very fine modelers at that site, including a number of other MSW members. If I build a card ship, I prefer to show it here, because I like to see a diversity of media shown at MSW.
  2. I had a look, too, and your CAD model is indeed amazing -- I shudder to think of the effort that will be needed to replicate all of that in a 1/96 scale model, but I certainly applaud the attempt! The Cleveland-class were good looking ships, both in their all-gun and CG configurations, and of course they contributed greatly to US naval efforts. I wish you every success on your continuing project!
  3. The mark in the first photo looks like a dent. That should probably be filled in with wood filler, which will be hidden if you plan to paint the model. The rebate cut into the hull is where the bulwarks will be attached, so no, don't sand the hull down to that line -- unless you want a slimmer, trimmer, Bounty-Lite. Cheers!
  4. Erik, have you tried making your own? Eye bolts are quite easy to make with blackened annealed wire and a pair of round-nose pliers. Cheers,
  5. Well, don't hit the button if you're expecting to pay only $206 -- that's far too low. Best thing is to do is to contact Cornwall directly and confirm the price with them, which should be in the ~US$1000 range.
  6. Hi, Glenn. Start by taking your time! Read a few books -- you can probably find or get them at your local library. Some good ones to start with include Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini and How to Build First-Rate Ship Models from Kits by Ben Lankford. Browse through some build logs; use the keywords "finished" and "first build" to find completed models by first-time builders. Some of them are solid hull kits, like yours. Here's a link to a recently finished example. The planking chore that stopped you cold is called spiling. It's doable, and we have tutorials here to guide you, but eventually everyone has to just give it a go. Few of us get good at it on the very first try, but we managed. You can, too! Cheers!
  7. Hi, Tomek. I'm a member at papermodelers.com, so I will be sure to check out your work there. I haven't built any models directly from WAK, but I did build Marek's Pacynski's 1/33rd scale PZL.50 from eCardmodels, which was also published by WAK. I look forward to seeing some of your contributions here. Cheers!
  8. Cześć, Tomek! I am curious about which designs you have had published? Regards, Chris
  9. I had to go back to the beginning of this log just to remind myself about the state this model was in when you received it, Michael. Wow, what a difference! The appraiser was right -- your clients got a steal!
  10. I found Kazim's website and looked it over, but I don't see that there is a way for interested persons to order a kit. Are they only sold locally at this time?
  11. You said that this was a group project. Is the kit available to the general public, or was it a limited production run?
  12. That was my first thought, too. But ... if it has to be painted, at least let it be a first-class paint job, which this clearly is! Cheers!
  13. Well, this is very good timing, since I intend to do this as my next project!
  14. Nicely done, Jim! That is really eye-catching. I hope to start work on this kit soon, but I'm forcing myself to finish my current card model first (1/33 scale Brewster Buffalo -- love the plane, kit not so much). Cheers!
  15. Scott, one thing to keep in mind if all you're trying to do is make the plastic 'wood' look more like real wood (as opposed to weathering the model) is that on real sailing ships the wooden decks do have a very uniform color to them, usually a light tan. If I recall correctly (haven't seen one for years), plastic kits sometimes have a simulated grain molded into them. Such a grain wouldn't be visible at scale viewing distances. Does your deck have molded plank seams? If so, I'd probably give the deck a coat of an appropriate tan or beige paint followed by a darker wash to highlight the seams, unless someone with more experience in plastic pipes up and totally contradicts me -- which is not unlikely!
  16. That makes my heart ache to see photos like that. Being a native of California, I'm no stranger to wildfires and have even had to evacuate for one. Watching the forest go up in smoke is always painful to watch, even if the cause may have been natural.
  17. I've managed to complete four models without items #1, #4, and #5. Like Toni, I find my Dremel tool indispensable for wood models, but others have no use for one. There's a lot of personal preference involved in buying and using tools. It's better to start your collection slowly, even if it means waiting a week here or a week there when ordering a new tool, rather than starting right off with a big collection only to find that you never use half of them. Cheers!
  18. Oh, dear, James! You are really setting the bar high on this latest review -- very well written and informative. I believe that every thing a potential buyer might wish to know has been addressed. Except maybe for identifying what the green material is for!
  19. Welcome, LG! I only took one semester of o-chem in college, but I really enjoyed it. Too bad we cannot see some pictures of your Charles P. Notman, as that is a showstopper kit as well as one that doesn't get too much face time here in social media land. Cheers!
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