ccoyle

I have completed five models without any of those tools. Now, if you're thinking about going the scratch-building route, some of them are no doubt handy.

A member of my local built one, but this was years ago. I can only dimly recall that he had some issues with the kit, but he did finish it, and it looked very nice when completed.

Thank you for reading this! I'd like everyone to take a moment and have a glance at the index page for the build logs (kit or scratch, either one). Please notice how pretty much every build log title starts like this: (Name of ship) by (exact username of builder) This is no coincidence! MSW has guidelines for standardized build log titles pinned in each build log section. Those guidelines are intended to make the build logs more easily searchable with our site's search function, but having a standard title format also makes it much easier to tell WHAT is being built and by WHOM for those that choose to browse the index. Trust me, I know from being a member on other forums that such a standardized format makes for a much nicer browsing experience than the hodge-podge of titles I've seen elsewhere. For those of you who have been diligently following the titling guidelines, THANK YOU! You make our moderating duties much easier. Over the last several weeks, though, I have edited approximately 60-80 build log titles to conform them to our guidelines. Some were admittedly very minor edits, and some were edits to titles written long ago before things were streamlined. But many were edits to recent titles that didn't follow the guidelines at all, including three so far today. This isn't just a newbie thing, either - some of these non-standard titles were written by long-tenured members (who should know better, *ahem*). So, before posting your next build log, have a look at the existing titles - there are now lots of examples of how to do it right! Thank you, and model on!

Well, that makes one, then. Seriously, though, if someone likes using the nails, then I would be the last to stop them. More than one way to skin a cat.

If you are using the nails to hold planks while gluing, the best advice is: don't. There are better ways of doing that job.

48 hours, eh? Well, I for one am impressed.

Have heard of this kit, but that's about all I know of it. It's a solid-hull kit, so it will require a slightly different skill set than a plank-on-bulkhead (POB) kit. My advice is, if it doesn't thrill you, skip it - you will not feel motivated to complete it. OTOH, there is some merit in starting with a simpler kit, especially if you do not have any prior experience with wood. I started by building two beginner kits from Midwest Products (they just dropped this product line this spring), and I don't regret the time spent on those kits. They were very good kits, too. On the other other hand (I guess that would be OTOOH), everyone who builds a POB kit has to tackle a first one sometime, and it's going to be a challenge, to be sure. Having a kit you really, really like goes a long way in the motivation department. Not every POB kit that gets started gets finished, but there are modelers here at MSW who have attempted Syren as their first build and succeeded. You kinda have to decide for yourself how much challenge you feel up to. As for scale, I personally do not find 1/64 difficult to work with, because I am used to working with card models in 1/250. 1/64 is a cakewalk in comparison. Seriously, though, 1/64 is a very doable scale for a beginner. Good luck!

Welcome! Your destroyer model looks great. Each of the kits you listed has merits, but first I would suggest that you do a search on the topic of the LSS practicums. Opinion varies widely on them. Bluenose will, in one sense, be easier than the others, in that it has an easier hull shape to build and a relatively simple rig. Pride of Baltimore shares these features, but includes some square rigging, which will add an extra bit of complexity. LSS does not offer a practicum based on Syren, but what that kit does have is an exceedingly detailed set of instructions, which are, for all intents and purposes, a practicum unto themselves. Plus, the kit's designer, Chuck Passaro, is right here at MSW. Personally, I would avoid Rattlesnake as a first kit, simply because as a three-masted man o' war it will have the most of everything to work on, i.e. masts, guns, rigging. Syren and Fair American both have the man o' war appeal in a two-masted package. Any of those kits will build into a very nice model, but since you said Syren scores well with you on personal appeal, that's what I'd go with. Plus, the prices you quoted are MSRP. Get yourself on Model Shipways' email list and wait for one of their on-line deals. You'll get your dream kit for much less moola. Regards

Gerald, You can add the word 'metal' after a dash, in the same fashion that 'plastic' or 'card' is added to a title.

Jason, have you thought about making them yourself? It's not particularly difficult, especially for a small suit of fore-and-aft sails.

Got some pix, grsjax? I know there were kits that fell out of the Laughing Whale/Bluejacket/Midwest lineup, but I don't think I've heard of that particular one.

JSC models are a mixed bag. My first attempt at a card ship was JSC's 1/400 Mikasa. Bad choice - scale too small, model crudely hand-drawn. Many of their kits are still of the older, hand-drawn variety and not particularly good. I can't speak to the quality of their newer releases. Quality English instructions are still a rarity among Eastern European publishers, so experience is still the best predictor of success with such kits. Starting a build log with pics could help us get you around some of the sticky parts.

"Not that bad"? Greg, at a normal viewing distance, I know this looks totally amazing!

Welcome, Scott. Completing a model like the Wasa, even if it is only the rigging left to do, will be a challenge for a beginner. To begin with, there is quite a bit of archaic language to get a handle on, followed by acquiring a new skill set specific to rigging period ship models. I suggest starting off with reading up on the subject. A good book aimed at beginners is Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini. It won't tell you how to rig a Wasa, but it will give you an idea of what you are getting into. Also, check out some of the Wasa build logs here at MSW. They won't all be Billing Boats kits, but the rigging will be similar. You might also want to think about building your own, simpler model to start off with - something you can cut your teeth on without making your beginner mistakes on your opa's model. Lots to think about. Cheers!

I think he already has the kit and is looking for help with the French instructions.

This is a pretty inaccurate generalization. There are many exceptionally nice kits coming out of Europe these days from manufacturers like Victory Models, Caldercraft, Dusek, MariStella, Master Korabel, and others. To be sure, some of the older manufacturers did churn out historically inaccurate kits, and the materials could be a mixed bag, but the newer manufacturers are setting the bar ever higher.

This is why the hobby, on the whole, is taken up by only a Relative Few - it leaves a vast remnant of of the Uninitiated who are still impressed by those of us with pedestrian skills.

And that's why many builders will advise you to hold off on this or that tool. A tool that one guy finds invaluable, another guy might never use at all. A lot of it is personal preference. Treenailing is another matter of personal preference (there are actually lots of personal preference matters in model building!). Done correctly, treenailing on a model can look spectacular. Personally, I don't do it. The reason why is because, as Ulises pointed out, treenails are made of wood, and on real ships they are scarcely noticeable even when seen close-up. But, you decide. Now, as to 'entry level' and instructions. Such things should always be balanced against the question of what do you actually want to build? All, or at least most, modelers run into tedious tasks during a model's construction that test our will to move forward. Whether you really like your model subject will go a long way towards ensuring that you actually finish your model. So if you really like Convulsion, don't hesitate to get it. Probably the most daunting task for a first-time builder is planking a hull, and though the Caldercraft instructions will not go into that in detail, we have the tutorials here to get you through it. Have fun getting started!

Forgot one thing - the Convulsion kit is one of Caldercraft's early releases. Those kits had very spartan instructions. Fortunately, you can find all the advice you need here at MSW.

I read over your list, and here's a few observations: 1) I have no experience with Admiralty brushes, but brushes really are one of those tools where you get what you pay for. I use white sable brushes from an art supply store. 2) Skip the chisels for now. I've never used them on a plank-on-bulkhead kit. 3) As David said, skip the Gorilla glue - it expands as it sets. You will use mostly PVA glue for the early stages of construction. Other types of glues will come in handy later. 4) I second the proportional dividers. Very handy for planking and also for taking measurements off of plans. 5) You already have a Dremel tool - good! I use mine all the time. Make sure you have plenty of sanding drums, sanding discs, cutoff wheels, and wire-size drill bits. Sounds like you are well on your way!

Lieber Ivan, Beachten Sie bitte Ihre Privatnachrichten.

Here ya go. Royal Caroline by Doris.

Scientific is a brand that has long since gone out of business. Their kits were not up to the standards set by the newer releases from Model Shipways, Amati/Victory Models, Caldercraft, and others. As Mark suggested, the answer to your questions depends in part on what ship you actually decide to model, as there may be multiple offerings of that subject that vary substantially from one to the next. Even within the same company's offerings, there is usually some variation in quality. Sometimes it is significant variation. Make sure to do all your homework before whipping out your debit card!

Amazing work, Greg!

Actually, it's the flat transoms that are usually incorrect. I'm not familiar with Endeavour's stern, but I suspect the rounded form is correct.