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Everything posted by ccoyle
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Sometimes, when I dying in the sweltering heat and humidity of the Deep South, I look up the weather data for my hometown in Humboldt County and dream longingly of summertime highs in the upper 60s. 🥵
- 54 replies
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- Spray
- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
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All done! I'd tell you what all the extra added doohickeys are, but I don't know what they are myself -- I just followed the reference photo. As a matter of curiosity, there are, of course, multiple variants of the Twin Wasp. I didn't find any sources that could tell me which variant(s) was(were) used in the dash-four, so if you know, don't tell me now, cuz it's too late! 😅
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I don't think the MK kits look bad when finished bright -- they use good-quality wood, and the combination of wood tone and brass is attractive. But you can't go wrong with adding a touch of paint, either. I've seen them both ways and like them equally well.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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Congratulations, David, on a grand achievement!
- 218 replies
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- Victory
- Caldercraft
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Now we're getting down to details that are difficult for a cellphone camera to capture. Cylinders #3 and #13 have hoses that connect to the distribution ring. In addition to these, I did a test run of the spark plug 'wires', which are simply black thread. The hoses and wires have couplings that I believe were probably brass on the original or some other brown-toned metal; these I have simulated with dark tan paint. Overall, I like the effect and think we're good to go for the remaining thirteen sets of wires. BTW, the kit provided a template for making the distribution ring from wire, but since the original is rectangular in cross-section, not round, I chose to make one from scratch from scrap 'beer mat'. This was a good move, because it is infinitely easier to glue the thread ends to card rather than to metal.
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Our friend, Tomek @0Seahorse , has published a new kit. This charming US revenue cutter -- including all of its accessories -- can be had for under US$40 at WAK (the kit by itself is only US$7.16). Tempting!
- 24 replies
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More engine progress. I have added the rear bank of cylinders to the crankcase (BTW, I'm not a mechanic nor mechanically inclined, so my engine terminology is limited). To see what extra detailing I have added so far, you can compare the detailed cylinders to the basic kit cylinder on the left. The front cover on the crankcase and all of the bolt heads are extras, as is the little blue daub of paint, which represents the Pratt & Whitney badge (no, I'm not gonna super-detail the badge -- don't be insane!!). Next step will be adding the push rods to the rear cylinders.
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Brig Niagara 2023 sailing season ending early
ccoyle replied to gak1965's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Oh, the irony! -
Welcome aboard! If you'd care to read about my experience with building a CLC boat, you can find my build log here.
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I have actually crossed the River Lerma numerous times on the way in and out of Temascalcingo.
- 286 replies
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Beautiful! But these should be posted in the gallery.
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To be honest, it's been so long since I did that part of the project that I can't remember exactly what I used. I probably used a water-based stain, and I'm fairly certain, but not 100%, that I used an off-white from Model Shipways, also water-based, for below the waterline. BTW, I hope my next project doesn't take me 17 years, too!
- 69 replies
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- fly
- victory models
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Finished So, first of all, if anyone is interested in why this model is finished without having any masts or rigging, allow me to refer you back to post #25. I ordered resin swivel guns from Chris at Vanguard Models. These are very nicely done and far superior to the off-the-shelf metal ones from Amati. I was surprised, though, to discover that the guns did not come with any mounts. I don't blame Chris for this at all -- I never asked about the mounts and he never said anything about whether they were included. The lesson here is it pays to ask! I tried several methods to create mounts: wire (fail), cobbling something together from leftover PE parts (fail), and finally hit upon yokes made from scrap black construction paper. These look fine as long as one doesn't view them from head-on, otherwise they look impossibly thin. The final shots: So, that brings this seventeen-year-long, on-again off-again journey to a close. I do have another wooden subject waiting in the wings, but I'll divulge that project at the proper time. Cheers!
- 69 replies
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- fly
- victory models
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You are aware the kit is designed to be planked first before installing the keel? It's not a deal-breaker if you don't (I did mine that way by accident), but that was the designers' intent.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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I missed the post that revealed her home port as Sausalito. I grew up in the Bay Area until I was nine, first in Campbell and later in Santa Rosa.
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That'd be the gallery. Welcome aboard!
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Congratulations, you have now 'arrived'! All modelers break something somewhere along the way. Maybe even multiple somethings.
- 177 replies
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- Perseverance
- Modellers Shipyard
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Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑 So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference: I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine. One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this? Cheers!
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