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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. ccoyle
    Congratulations, Edward -- well done!
  2. ccoyle
    Dia duit, Brian! I look forward to seeing your work.
  3. ccoyle
    The key to buying direct from Poland is to find where the cutoff is for minimum shipping. I find that I can usually squeeze in 2-3 kits and their laser-cut frames before the shipping goes up to the next tier. You have to really WANT those 2-3 kits in order to justify the cost! 😬 Among Polish publishers, WAK generally has the lowest shipping costs. EDIT: Here's a screen capture of my WAK shopping cart (wish list only -- ain't pulling the trigger!). The cart contains three kits, four sets of laser-cut frames, and a canopy. Note the shipping.
  4. ccoyle
    So, are lionfish good eating? I know they are considered invasive in the Western Atlantic/Caribbean.
  5. ccoyle
    I think the dashed line is just a border to separate the parts from the diagrams.
  6. ccoyle
    You can always test a piece. It's also possible to laminate thicker card from regular card stock using spray adhesive. I find that card laminated in this manner is easier to cut than chipboard. Chipboard dulls #11 blades like nobody's business.
  7. ccoyle
    Yes. This is the gentleman who designed Answer's Fiat CR.42 kit that I built about twelve years ago.
  8. ccoyle
    I learned recently that Lech Kołodziejski has set up shop again under the CardPlane name. You can view his store here. Lech has no fewer than four free models available at his site (available as downloads upon request), including the PWS-10 in Spanish Nationalist markings. His PWS-50 and Bartel BM-6a are relatively simple models and well-suited for beginners. Check them out!
  9. ccoyle
    Super job!
  10. ccoyle
    Already back at work on USS England (link in signature).
  11. ccoyle
    Thought you all might enjoy this little exchange that took place in a Facebook group after I shared some pictures there. Every group of modelers has "that guy" who is nit-picky to the nth degree: The best way to respond to such a character is to beat him to the punch. Here's my reply to him: In case anyone wonders, Mr. Karczewski's comments were the only negative ones posted, and no, I'm not bothered by them -- mainly just amused. 😉
  12. ccoyle
    http://www.answer.pl/en/laser-cut-components-for-aircraft/1955-nakajima-type-ko-3-laser-cut-frames.html?search_query=ko-3&results=255 Most publishers use some variation of the following code for laminating parts: ** = 1.0 mm card * = 0.5 mm card + = plain card stock (i.e. the part gets doubled) You can verify the thickness of your laminated parts by using calipers and comparing that measurement to the width of any slots that the parts must fit into.
  13. ccoyle
    These are quite beautiful, Michele!
  14. ccoyle
    Yep, matte clear. One or two light coats.
  15. ccoyle
    Technically, the word "FINISHED" (all caps) should be added to the build log title right after the subject name and builder's username, set off by <space>hyphen<space>. Titles can only be edited from post #1 in the build log. Here's an example: HMS Pinafore 1878 by Gilbert O'Sullivan - FINISHED - Opera Comique Models - 1/571 scale The word "Finished" (capitalized) should also be added as a tag. You can do this yourself if you feel up to the challenge, or have me do it for you. Cheers!
  16. ccoyle
    Yeah, card model instructions tend not to be much more than "glue part a to part b, etc., etc."
  17. ccoyle
    Okay, the Messerschmitt is done, so it's back to USS England. As you know, I bought some after-market resin parts from Darius Lipinski. Some of these are parts whose card counterparts are already on the model; some would probably be too difficult to remove from the model without damaging it and, in exchange, their resin replacements would probably not be a noticeable upgrade. Other parts are definitely worth an attempt at replacement. The gun directors are one such part. Here's the card director, after careful removal from the model, and its resin counterpart after painting: And the new part in place: More cosmetic surgery to follow . . .
  18. ccoyle
    Now you're doomed -- you're just gonna have to get Oregon to go along with it.
  19. ccoyle
    I've had parts fall into folds of clothing. This past weekend, my tweezers did the "ping fling" thing and sent a finished pitot tube through the portal between dimensions. 🙄
  20. ccoyle
    Good luck, Craig! I'll be following along with interest.
  21. ccoyle
    More like a "journeyman class," but I appreciate the accolade! I think one of the biggest take-aways from this build for me personally is that I now feel less intimidated by Halinski kits, having completed three of them. I have to qualify that statement with the observation that Halinski kits tended to get even more complex after the 2007 publication date of this kit. Some of the newer ones that I have in my stash (e.g. Fw-190D-9, Ki-61) make this one look rather tame. And Card Army, whose chief artist, Marcin Dworzecki, did the artwork on many of the Halinski kits, has ratcheted up the detail on card kits to an even higher degree, if you can believe it. When I look at the Card Army kits and coolly assess my skills against what would be required to build one of them, I have to realistically conclude that they are really only suitable for a very tiny minority of modelers.
  22. ccoyle
    The kits come with templates for cutting the glazing from the modeler's choice of material. In this instance, I used a molded after-market canopy. Such canopies are usually kit-specific, meaning that a canopy for one kit may not fit a kit from another publisher, even if it's the same subject. However, in my experience, even the fit with the intended kit (i.e. a Halinski canopy with a Halinski kit) can be problematic and depends greatly on the skill of the builder in getting the cockpit dimensions just right; get the dimensions off a millimeter here and there and all sorts of fit trouble follows. I have had to 'fudge' the fits on more than one molded canopy.
  23. ccoyle
    Very interesting piece -- well done!
  24. ccoyle
    I think that it's safe to say that a model of a U-boot or other submarine, having a relative paucity of structure compared to a surface combatant, really depends on the painting and weathering skills of a modeler in order to bring it to life. This you have done in spades, Greg!
  25. ccoyle
    Beautiful work, Glenn!

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