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toms10

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Posts posted by toms10

  1. If you are going for how she was in 1941 then you should go with the full mizzenmast rigging and fake gun ports. the black with white stripe is similar to the scheme used on the Constitution and Constellation I believe. 
     

    Honestly, one of the things that made me think I might not want to build the CWM was the solid black painting of the hull and the white masts. I then to like the natural wood look. But then again that is all I ever built and I have only built 1 and 3/4 models. After seeing your model in black and white I didn’t mind the color scheme as she sits today. 
     

    My thoughts on the gun ports are that they are going to be really difficult to paint on at this point in your build. It is going to be difficult to get them to come out looking crisp just painting them. They would most likely have to be built up from tiny mouldings that were painted first then attached. 
     

    My thoughts so far on my build are to build her as she sits today but I am not convinced yet. I have only built warships so far so that is where cannons belong. This is a whaling ship so it shouldn’t look like a frigate. On the other hand it was painted as one in the period you are modeling. Is it more important to you to be historically accurate or just pleasing to the eye. I think that question comes up often with many modelers other than the pros. 
     

    sorry for the “definite maybe” answer but in the end it boils down to your value of historical accuracy or what you would like it to look like. These boats go through so many changes unless you are an expert or building for a museum who would really know?

     

    Tom
     

  2. Hi John

    You should like the way it looks! It looks great!  You are creating quite an itch for me to start on my Morgan. Not going to scratch it until I finish my Leopard and then my 9000 piece puzzle of Trafalgar. One project at a time. I am hoping for the beginning of the summer. I will then hop on over to Mystic with my video and regular camera and go wild. Lucky for me she is only an hour away. 

    Your build log will be a great reference. Thanks for sharing. 
    Tom

  3. Hi Allan,

    Thanks for your input.  The copy paper was to draw light lines with a #2 pencil then a quick spray coat of matte sealant to keep the lines from smudging.  I would then put a light coating of spray adhesive on the paper to adhere the silkspan on each side.  The silkspan is lightly spray painted with Liquitex unbleached titanium as you mentioned.  Now when the pencil lines show through they will be muted and less noticeable.  I was also thinking of white tissue paper between the silk span or maybe just draw the pencil lines on the back side of one sheet of silkspan and then cover that side with another piece of painted silkspan.

     

    I like your idea of the Liquitex marker pen.  What color did you end up using to contrast the unbleached titanium for the seams?  Sounds like some experimenting is in my immediate future.

     

    Tom

     

     

  4. Hi George

    thank you for your response. This is exactly the information I was looking for.  I was also curious about the actual thickness of the cloth used for the sails. I only found reference to a number that was designated for a particular thickness in my reference books but was unable to correspond that to an actual inch measurement.
     

    I am going to be using a silkspan  on both sides of a sheet of paper. The total thickness is .008” which might be a bit heavy at the 1:85 scale I am using. I may substitute the center paper ply with tissue. This technique was developed by a fellow member of my local club, Ron Neilson and looked excellent on his model

     

    thanks again for your valuable insight. 
     

    Tom

  5. Got a little farther. In the words of a fellow member, “Taking baby steps”. 😁. Added the stuns’l booms to the main and fore course and top yards. Just need to add the foot rope and then they will be ready to have the sails attached. Of course I still need to make the sails but that’s a minor detail. 😁😁😁

     

    When I do get to attaching the yards to the masts I think it would be easiest to start with the bow sprit and work my way back to the mizzenmast. I also think starting with the royals and working my way dow would probably be the easiest since the lower sails will make it more difficult to work around. I’m not sure what the best way to go is right now.  I’m just learning as I go. 
     

    In hind sight I probably should have waited to put the backstays on. Now I need to work around them to tie the running rigging off. Oh well next time. 
     

    CAC81D04-ED4F-4FD7-9BDD-E10B2612905C.thumb.jpeg.0119a6d333416b3cca5b6b8d9a36fa28.jpeg

     


    Tom

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  6. Hi MSW,

    I have a question regarding the running rigging lines when a sail is furled, specifically lines that are secured to the kringles on the sail itself such as bow, leech and reef lines.  I am assuming these lines are loosened from their belyaing pins but stay attached to their kringles and "rolled up" into the sail so the lines come out near the yard arms and then reattached to their belaying pins.  I just want to make sure as I am going to furl or at least partially, the fore and main course sails on my Leopard as not to obstruct the details on the the decks below them.

     

    Thanks for the help,

    Tom

  7. Happy new year John. Glad to hear you have the sail layout figured out. I am looking forward to seeing her with full sails. I know the feeling about the research thing. That is basically all I have been doing the past month. The Vikings had the right idea, one sail in the middle of the boat! Keeps it very simple. 😃 LOL

     

    Tom

  8. Hello all

    I haven’t posted anything in a while but I have been busy. A great deal of reading and studying various rigging books and chipping away on the yards. Seems I am putting in time but not seeing much progress right now but I am gaining more knowledge on running rigging! 👍 I am in the process of tying the various blocks to the yards. Will most likely need to put an order in with Chuck as I don’t have enough to complete the job. No rush though, I still need to make all the sails. I plan on trying Ron Neilson’s method that he outlined in the 2018 winter NRG Journal (vol #63) Here is where I stand today with the yards. 
    E9CD4274-3FA5-4681-83E0-C60D5DB6BFE3.thumb.jpeg.86d1c7c98746339b5afde1234fcb8f74.jpeg

     

    Tom

  9. Hi Jeff,

    Post #279 of my Leopard build log has a picture of what Wefalk is describing.  I used this method with good success.  Just click the link in my signature to find the log.

     

    16 hours ago, Jim Lad said:

    Jeff, spending the rest of your life tying little knots is one of the joys of rigging a large sailing ship! :D

     

    Actually, clove hitches are very quick and easy to tie and will help your model to look really authentic.  Tension on the shrouds shouldn't be a problem as the ratlines are slightly slack and don't pull on the shrouds.

     

    John

    With some quick math, I figure I ended up with 2,918 clove hitches... but who's counting!🤪

    Good luck,

    Tom

  10. Time for an update. I reached another milestone today in that the standing rigging is complete.  At least I think so. 😁

    75332D6D-6DF8-4ECE-9106-B35B3B00D508.thumb.jpeg.9295adaf734ba5fcd7e2d6c5a86b26f7.jpeg

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    5C7B370F-CB78-4FDC-9C1D-25850166D854.thumb.jpeg.352eb1b2098db17e49931924e99c96e4.jpeg
     

    5DA2002C-CB01-4329-ABE0-B45FCAD6A756.thumb.jpeg.f76d171741146409b22934fc59690b72.jpeg

     

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    and one view from the seagull. 

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    Now I need to finish up the yards that I started a while back then on to the running rigging. 
     

    Stay safe everyone.  It gets harder and harder every day. 

     

    Tom

     

     

  11. Hi moderators,

    Are the posts in each thread still numbered?  I believe they used to be in the upper right hand corner of each post. This is handy to have when someone references a post number in a reply.  Is there a setting somewhere that I am missing?  I am currently viewing this forum on my IPhone if that matters. 

     

    Tom

  12. Hi everyone,

    I “had” to take a two week hiatus from modeling to build a mirrored wall shelf  (33 x 53 inches!) for my daughter (just can’t say no when they ask 😉)

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    I am back at it. I reviewed my pin layouts I made a while back. I sketched out a schematic for each mast area and developed a key as to where all the lines will be tied off. 
    20838D48-4493-47C4-A6EA-03B29FF0CB8F.jpeg.d875ea62fb3da1f92eca67f5a851345c.jpeg

     

    D6484D2D-F7FA-4912-891A-C43E6627EB74.jpeg.70f43023b0735760866dbbcc60409f37.jpeg

     

    I also have been working on the yards. I have them rough cut to length and finished the octagon area on all of them. 
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    Finishing up some of the odds and ends to finish the standing rigging and get them installed as the masts are being assembled. 
     

    6467829B-624D-451A-8381-BA7045F475F9.jpeg.1bf8e328883983c048aad1687e496e19.jpeg

     

    There are quite a few things to think about when trying to anticipate what is coming up. I am working very hard to understand the rigging and when it will be the easiest to install. I am probably overthinking the whole thing but that is the engineering in me. 😜

     

    Comments and suggestions are always welcome. 
     

    Tom

  13. Hi Roger

    The AL Constellation was my introduction into model ship building. I was able to get the kit for $120 on EBay. A small price to pay to try something I have always wanted to do but never really had the time. I also assumed the kit would be somewhat realistic and would be something I could be proud of. As it turns out it was a nothing more than practice for my current scratch build which is not a bad thing in itself. 
     

    Knowing what I know now (scratch building is certainly an eye opener and learning opportunity), it is just disappointing finding out iwhat you worked so hard on is nothing more than a trinket that looks great but only to people who don’t know what they are looking at. For the prices charged for some kits versus the quality and the disappointment I now feel, it was enough for me to give up on kits and try scratch. I know there are some great kits that are done well (Syren, Watton) but the big name mass produced ones left a sour taste for now. 
     

    Sorry for venting but sometimes it just feels good!  I am sure I will build kits in the future but will do more research before building and be prepared to do some kit-bashing. 
     

    Tom

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