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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. The fillers for the bow and stern can be gotten from the lines drawing. Everything you need would be in the three view lines. Russ
  2. The number 11 blade is the very basic triangular shaped blade with the point on the end. Russ
  3. If you have the frames where the planking will lay flat in all areas, then I say go for it. Good work. Russ
  4. The lines drawing is where I would start to do a POB conversion. No sense sawing up the hull if you have the hull lines. Russ
  5. Andy: The braces look good. Everything appears to be suitably taut without anything pulled out of line. Russ
  6. Bob: That is indeed fast. I think you are ready to begin fairing. However, you will need to do this by eye now because I do not see any references on the frames themselves. So long as you get everything so that the planking and ceiling will lay on the frames, you should be okay. Russ
  7. Sam: The stain job looks very good. I like the color contrast. Couple of pieces of deck furniture, some sticks, some string, and you will have a finished model. Russ
  8. I have been fortunate to have been given access to some photos in private collections, some of which have not been seen by the general public. It has made reconstruction of some details much easier. Russ
  9. The stern timbers look great. That seems to be just how Hahn showed them in his book. Russ
  10. Fortunately, I have it sorted out based on some good photos and related contemporary sources. Russ
  11. Dave: Thanks. I have Underhill's work and unfortunately, it does not apply to our local schooners down here. The windlass I am making is muuuuucccchhh simpler than what Underhill shows. I thank you for taking the time to post it though. Russ
  12. I would not use CA on wood, but some folks do. It is just super glue. It can be used if you want to get a much quicker bond or you cannot get a clamp on a joint where youa re using wood glue. Personally, I like Elmer's carpenter's glue, but others have their favorites as well. If you use wood glue, make sure to have a damp rag close at hand to wipe away any squeeze out. This will make finishing a lot easier. CA needs to be applied carefully because if it soaks into the wood, you will have a tough time with any stain or clear finishes. There could blotches where the CA has dried into the wood. This is a general statement and there may be exceptions depending on what finish you choose. If you are painting over the surface, then it will not matter as much. Russ
  13. Bill: Thanks. I am hoping to get some more time in shop later this week to finish it. Maybe, maybe not. Russ
  14. Paddy: One or two treenails at the end of each futtock is good. If using two, space them side by side. One will be enougn through. They should go right through both layers of the frame. Nice work on the treenails. Russ
  15. Bob: My only thought is that you left A LOT of wood on that frame. I was thinking about maybe an extra 1/32" on both inside and outside. That will be enough for fairing purposes and it will make it easier on you doing it by hand. The frame looks good though. Nice work. I envy you doing this by hand. Russ
  16. Michael: When the assembly is a little further along, I think the questions will be answered. Russ
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