russ
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Enamle vs Acrylic
russ replied to Timothy Wood's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I try to avoid painting metal. I usually chemically tone metal. However, I know that you can use primers on metal parts, but this also adds to the build up of paint that hide details. Chemical toners will not hide any details. Bluejacket Shipcrafters sells Brass Brown and Brass Black toners and both of them work very well. They also sell a product to tone Britannia metal pieces. I have heard great things about Winsor & Newton. I think Chuck might use that product on his models. The main thing to look at is to get some paint that is finely ground. That makes for a better paint job at scale. Russ -
Enamle vs Acrylic
russ replied to Timothy Wood's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I use acrylics almost exclusively. They are easy to clean up. I get mine from Hobby Lobby. They sell a vast variety of artist's acrylics in tubes for 50 cents or so. They last forever. I thin and/or mix them as needed. I put on very thin coats and build them up, sanding in between as needed. You can get as deep a color as you like. Good paint work takes time and cannot be rushed. The more care you take in the beginning, the better it looks in the end. Russ -
That is a nice set up. So long as it works for you, that is what is most important. Russ
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That looks pretty good. One question. This may be a trick of the camera, but are you sure you have the planks long enough at each edge? It looks like there could be some hull frame showing at each edge of the lowest plank. If I am seeing it right, that could cause you some problems getting the side planking to lay flush against the edges of the counter planking. Of course, if I am wrong, then you are good to go. Russ
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Since you edited your post, I deleted mine so that there would not be any confusion later on. Your spanker boom is looking good. Nice work. Russ
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For historical accuracy, I would bet the Caldercraft Bounty kit is very good. Russ
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Beautiful rigging. It really brings the model to life. Russ
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Andy: Congratulations on a fine effort. This is a beautiful model with some great details. Thanks for sharing it. Russ
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Whenver you get to building it, I will be around. Russ
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That is very common. I have used bamboo from fishing poles and had good luck with it. Still, it all takes patience and persistance. Russ
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Robbyn: If you are talking about the Battlestation plans that are offered here at MSW, I designed it and built it. You might be talking about another project though and that is good too. Good luck with the longboat kit. That is a beautiful model designed by real artist and craftsman. Russ
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Robbyn: I would sand the wood well and make sure you do not have any glue spots etc. That will cause you a problem with both the conditioner and the stain. Apply the conditioner and let it soak in for a bit. They tell you about how long on the label. You can wipe off any excess and then stain shortly thereafter. I would definitely run some tests on some scraps first. That is never a bad idea. I do not think it will chnage the color of the stain. You might test it and see what you think. The depth of the stain will be a function of how long you leave it on before wiping it down. On the Battlestation, let me know if you have any questions. Russ
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Great looking build. I like the detail around the windlass. The sails look good as well. Very good work. Russ
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Plastic model paint and erosion
russ replied to lambsbk's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I think if a part gets handled a bit over time, you will see some wear. I would hit it with some dullcoat as a clear finish. That should cure the problem. Russ -
It is important to note that the Rattlesnake almost certainly did have wales, however her wales were probably planed so that they were flush with the surrounding planking. I think that is what Chapelle was getting at. Most ships have the wales standing a bit proud of the rest of the planking, but Rattlesnake probably had her wales planed off a bit so that they were flush with the planking above and below. A ship like this would certainly have had that thicker belt of planking for the wales. The color scheme would have been fairly typical. Yellow ochre topsides with black wales and a tallow underbody. Somewhere along the quarterdeck there might have been a streak of Prussian blue or red ochre, maybe some black for the trim. Russ
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Nice work on the dredge and net. It looks very authentic. Russ
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Brian: I am not sure what is available down under, but here in the states, I use a prestain conditioner made by Minwax. I have had very good success with it on soft woods like basswood. Russ
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Wood conditioner will help even out the finish of the stain that you subsequently apply. Softer woods like basswood tend to have areas that are softer and others that are more dense. Thus the stain will not soak in evenly and this leads to a blotchy finish. The conditioner will even out the surface so that the stain will go on evenly. I would apply it after sanding and then stain within a few minutes of applying it. The softer the wood, the more you will see the need for it. Also, for open grained woods it will work well. Russ
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It looks good. I am sure the apple will be a nice contrast in color. Russ
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The planking looks very good. If you had not pointed out your problem areas, I would not have known just by a casual viewing, As for the finish, your white wash idea sounds good. The slightly off white of tallow will be just about right on this period of ship. Russ
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I wrap masking tape around the drill bit to act as a depth stop. Russ
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In our original drawings, I see that the smaller knee was used for the lower deck. When we drew these plans about 6-7 years ago, we researched all the major framing members for general scantlings for this size frigate so that must have been where we got the size for that knee. However, if you want to use the larger knee, the shipmodeling police will not arrest you. Russ
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Nice work on the hatch coamings and waterways. The coamings have some very good joinery. Russ
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John: It is great to see the rigging begun. Excellent work. Russ
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Michael: That is a very nice looking thimble. I will take about a dozen. Russ
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