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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. The deck planking and treenails came out very well. Nice work. The hatch coamings look good, especially after the planking is laid. Russ
  2. Aldo: Thanks. This restoration will always be one of my favorite projects. It was a good subject, a great client, and the finished model has gotten more than a few ooos and aahhs. Russ
  3. Charlie: I think it was quite prevalent in real shipbuilding. Certainly in the last two centuries in Britain and the US. Go to any shipyard along the US coast over the last 200 years, and they did a lot of spiling and tapering of hull planking. Russ
  4. Anja: Thank you. It was an enjoyable project. The term "white winged queen" was very likely coined by a local journalist, Walter Fountain. He wrote many newspaper stories about the annual schooner races. Russ
  5. Bob: In all of the photos I have seen of Biloxi schooners, they had the boom on the forestaysail as I have shown. The jib does not. Thanks for the kind words. Russ
  6. I see he is talking about early 18th century ships in the article. It was interesting, though. Russ
  7. I agree with Gary. I do not think there is a "right" color for blocks. I have seen them lighter and darker. In working boats, I have seen them painted. I think for 18th century blocks it would be some shade of "natural". Russ
  8. Here are some detail photos. Please feel free to ask any questions. Thanks for looking in. Russ
  9. New gaffs and booms were made and the sails were sewn out of japara cotton. Rigging was created from Egyptian cotton. I can heartily recommend Egyptian cotton for rigging. It is some of the best stuff I have used. Here are some photographs of the completed model. More to come. Russ
  10. There were several photos of detail in the original build log that I no longer have. So, descriptions will have to suffice for the most part. After fitting the deadeyes and chainplates, I had to work on the masts. The original mainmast was one long stick, but it had been broken about two thirds the way up, so it made sense to cut the mast off and then add a proper masthead. Here you can see what I did. The white area is a separate piece of wood shaped and fitted to the lower mast. A dowel was used to connect the two pieces, using the dowel as a spline. This same procedure was done on both mastheads. Russ
  11. I would think Longridge's book on the Cutty Sark would have the coppering layout for that ship. It should be mighty close to yours. I know that Underhill discussed coppering and there is a sample layout in his Plank on Frame Models volume 1. Russ
  12. I have looked over your build log this afternoon. This is making into a very good looking model so far. I especially like the window treatment on the quarter gallery. That is a great idea. Russ
  13. The deck framing looks very good. So long as the paper you use is not too thick, the caulking lines should be okay. Russ
  14. The tub would be for water to use when sponging out the gun. That battlestation model is generic in nature. I am not sure what time period or country it represents. Russ
  15. Apprentice: I am not sure what time period or nationality you are talking about, but I have always read that planks were spiled and tapered, at least in British and American shipyards. For framing they would look for timbers that had naturally curved grain, but in planks, that would be very difficult to find in most cases. It is far more likely that they would use what they had an spile the mating edge and taper the other edge from a wider plank. If it was just a minor bit of edge bending, they would do it, especially on the ceiling plank, but for any significant curve, that almost certainly had to come out of a wider plank. Certainly in the mid to late 19th century in American merchant shipyards, they were spiling and tapering. There is plenty of evidence for that and the same is known of British merchant shipyards of the period. Maybe you are referring to an earlier period or larger ships? Russ
  16. Adam: The pear and boxwood look good together. Will you be doing a half lap joint at the corners of the hatch coamings? Russ
  17. Those barrels look pretty good. Did you add the staves on the outside of the barrel? The bands look very good. Russ
  18. Mark: I would go for the hand tool solution. Make up a jig to hold the piece and plane down the corners, one at a time, to get the shape you want. So long as the plane is headed away from your body, you should be okay. Russ
  19. So far it looks pretty good. I think you will like the look of those nice timbers. Russ
  20. In that photo, they used four strakes between the drop planks and the butt joints as I recall, so that would fit. I think they had to work within the rules as best they could. So long as they did not violate the rules, they were okay. Russ
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