russ
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A question on drop planks
russ replied to apprentice's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I am pretty sure this is a hull strength issue. The three strakes rule was probably meant to be a minimum so as not to have too many planks butting on the same frame too close together. If it is meant to be interpreted as a minimum, then you could have more than three strakes between planking butts, but not less than. In any event, I would think that fewer plank butts on a hull would be desirable for that seepage issue. Let us see if someone with first hand knowledge might know better. Also, keep in mind that the ship in the photograph is a modern replica and it has to conform to whatever are the current rules in order to get certification. Russ -
A question on drop planks
russ replied to apprentice's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I think by "outlets" you mean strakes of planking. That is what I saw in that photograph. There were four strakes of planking between the dropped planks. The only rule of which I am aware was the Lloyd's rule that said no butts in the planking to be on the same frame unless there were three strakes in between the butts. I think they wanted at least three strakes between plank butts that ocurred on the same frame. Is that what you are after? Russ -
How to install pedestal stands
russ replied to LMDAVE's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The pedestals and display board look very good. The main thing is it is secure on the pedestals. Russ -
Sam: That is actually the cathead. Poor translation indeed. You did well with it though. Good work. Russ
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Charlie: Welcome aboard. Spiling is not mandatory. It simply follows, to some degree, how ships were actually planked. Ship's planking was actually spiled on one edge and tapered on the other. The extent to which this was done would depend on the kind of hull being planked. Some hull's required different methods depending on its shape. In most kits, the supplied planking strips are not wide enough to allow for proper spiling and tapering so modelers have developed alternative methods for hull planking. It gets the job done and can be made to look very neat. How one planks a model hull is up to the modeler. Some will want to spile and taper their planking and others will prefer to use other methods. Russ
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Okay, I did not understand what you were after. My fault. Russ
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I think you can afford to leave a little slack in the tackle lines on the gundeck. They would not be taut to begin with. Most likely they would have a small amount of slack. Russ
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You were asking for the size of the gun tackle blocks right? That would be about 7 1/2-8" long. 1/16" inch is 6" long. So, you would need something about 5/64" long. Maybe 3/32" would work. That would be 9". However, you will need to make sure there is still room for the tackle line between the blocks. I would think a 9" block might be too large. Russ
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The rope coils are very good. Nice, realistic hang to them. Russ
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The stern knee would most likely go in after the cant frames are in, but it is up to you. Russ
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Dave: I see what you mean about sculpting in full size, but I thought he was talking about scale modeling. Russ
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European manufacturers generally go with lime which is very much like basswood for the their first planking layers, then they use walnut or or some other similar wood in veneers for the outer layer planking. One problem with walnut or mahogony is that these woods have a somewhat coarse and open grain pattern. That makes them some difficult to work with in scale sizes that are found in kits. They also use these woods in veneers rather than the thicker strips. In veneers, the grain does not always run along the length of the strip or sheet. Walnut and mahogony veneers tend to splinter and chip. That is interesting that you use basswood in sculpting and that it does not dull your chisels. I would not have thought that basswood would not be much use in sculpting because it is very soft and does not hold an edge very well. For that same reason it is usually a bit hard on blades. What sort of sculpting do you do? As for scratch builders, you will find as many opinions as colors in the sunset. It just depends on the person. I use some basswood, but I have also used cherry, a bit of walnut, boxwood, birch, alder, dogwood here and there, and a few others. The short answer to your question is "yes." Russ
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CA vs. Wood glue
russ replied to rtropp's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
So long as the CA does not get on the surface that is to be stained you are okay. The same goes with wood glues. Russ -
Bob: It is looking very good. Russ
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The wales look very good. They finish off beautifully at the stern. Very nidce work. Russ
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Richard: I suspect it is mostly a cost issue, but basswood is also much easier to cut and sand and that makes it a little easier to work with if you only have some very basic cutting and sanding tools, such as kit builders are more likely to have. The more dense woods are definitely more expensive and might require a few more tools, depending on how much cutting and sanding you need to do on them. Take any given kit using basswood and upgrade to pear, cherry, etc and the kit cost will be much higher. Thus it is less likely that the kit will sell in volume. Russ
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The 7 1/2" block size for the gun tackles will be okay I think. No more than 9". For scale's sake, I think the smaller size would be better. Actually, the 7 1/2" long blocks work out pretty well compared to what the contemporary sources say for blocks with about 2" circumference gun tackles, which is probably close to what we are looking at for 24 pounders. . Russ
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That is a good looking grating. It looks really good against the red coaming. Nice color contrast. Russ
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One of the aspects that I wanted to address in this restoration was the rigging. I created new chainplates for the model. Originally, they just had screw eyes in the railing. Gabe and I agreed that we wanted more authentic looking chainplates. First was the chain plate itself. Here is the chainplate with the soldered eye in the top. Here is a look at the parts of the chainplate and deadeye assembly. The bolt and nut are from Micromark. The bolt passes through the chainplate loop and through the holes of the deadeye strap. The deadeye strap is just a length of brass strip with holes drilled in either end to take the bolt. The strap is drilled to take small nails to fasten it to the hull. Here is one of the completed assemblies. Note the holes for the nails that will fasten the strap into the hull. Russ
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Are you looking for the ultimate depth of the taper at the deadwood? That will be equal to the thickness of the outer planking. That should be 3 inches. We used 3 inch plank on the cross section. You will need to gradually taper the deadwood down to where there is a 3 inch depth at the keel and the stern post. Russ
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You will need to go through the Triton build logs to find photograph os what others have done in that area. The taper should not be a big problem though. You will begin at the full thickness at the steps of the deadwood and the gradually taper down to the bottom of the deadwood and the aft end of the deadwood. So long as there is a gradual taper with no big humps or bumps, you should be okay. Let your eyes and your fingers tell you when it is right. Always take off less than you think you should. You can always sand a bit more off. Russ
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Thanks for the kind words. I am not sure about the wheel diameter since it has been several years and the model is not handy to take measurements. I am pretty sure the rim was about 7/8" or 1". The handles are about 3/16" or 1/4" long each. I think the total diameter was about 1 1/2" or so. The extra thickness where each spindle goes through the rim was done with pieces of thin wood. Russ
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You are looking for the amount of taper at each section on the deadwood? I am pretty sure that was not drawn. You will need to eyeball it. Russ
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CA vs. Wood glue
russ replied to rtropp's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
J.Pett: Hmmm. If he were talking about CA glue, I would agree that capillary action will work. However, with the rather thick wood glues, it is always best to apply the glue, then join the pieces. I have never seen a wood glue that would run into a seam on its own. With thin CA yes, but not wood glue. To get a good joint, you need an even coat of wood glue for best adhesion. That is a standard of wood working. I have seen a drop of CA used along with wood glue in hard to clamp areas. However, mechanical clamping of some sort should be used wherever possible. Clamping helps make a good joint. Russ -
CA vs. Wood glue
russ replied to rtropp's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
With any wood glue, you want to apply the glue, then join the pieces and clamp as necessary. Russ
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