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KeithAug

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Everything posted by KeithAug

  1. Veszett, yes that is what I assumed. This is how the jib is rigged but the staysail and the flying jib both have single sheets on either beam. Thanks Brian i'll give it a try. Thank you Eberhard, Ken and Phil for your supportive comments. also thanks to everyone for the likes.
  2. I am in that final stage of building where it is a case of bouncing randomly from one area to another finishing off bits of detail. I apologise that this post may be a bit disjointed. The jib has an unusual arrangement of twin jib sheets on each side. These sheets slide in thimbles. The sheets are variously rigged on the photos i have but in general they are run outboard of the bulwark before retuning to the deck via various apertures. I am rigging the boat on a starboard tack and so I have rigged preventers to hold the fore and main booms to port. I then moved on to rigging the main mast shrouds. The two lower shrouds have been attached to the turnbuckles in the next photo. The upper two were then rigged completing all 4. I worked on both sides simultaneously to keep the tension equal and the mast vertical. I then repeated the process for the main mast The plywood in the next shot is protecting the lines from the heat applied to strink the heat shrink tubes on to the shrouds. The heat gun is quite capable of melting the line and undoing previous work. The rail above the turnbuckles is lashed in place and will support the various halyard lines.
  3. The advantage of the Byrnes saw is that the amputation is much cleaner, which facilitates the process of surgical re-attachment. The more aggressive blades on full size saws produce quite a ragged cut and this complicates surgery and can even lead to mistakes when deciding which finger to attach to which stump.😁
  4. That is interesting, could you provide more information on the diamond blade and perhaps where you purchased it from.
  5. Nice work Roger. How fine a blade do you have. My finest blade is a 108 tooth x 80mm x O.6mm kerf but even this is a bit “choppy” on thin brass. I frequently revert to gluing brass sheet to 1/8” ply and filling circular and square sections will wood to get smooth cuts. It would be good to hear how you do it?
  6. Tom. Brass cylinders .075” diameter by .080” long. thank you for your comments Gary and Brian.
  7. Pat, Brian, Todd, Eberhard, Tom, Mark, Druxey, CPDDET - trank you all for commenting. Not a lot done in the last couple of days - so small update. I lashed the dinghy in place, I don't know why but it seemed more appropriate to fasten it down with line (probably because almost every yacht i have been on takes this approach). All the deck eyes had been installed some time ago so it was just a case of deciding on how the lines would run. The chosen arrangement seemed particularly secure. The masts at this stage weren't actually glued in place and I wanted to get the alignment of the cross trees spot on so I used a pair of improvised plumb lines. These were dropped from the ends of the cross trees and aligned against the turnbuckle attachment points on the rail. A spot of glue was then applied to the base of the fore and main masts to lock them in place. Then came quite a laborious task of installing the remaining eyes and blanking plugs in the deck rigging attachment points. There were about 50 such holes left to fill. As I said - somewhat of a low productivity weekend.
  8. Hakan, yes I get those days. I find the trick is to recognise them early and go off and do something else. I sometimes get the balance right but more frequently kick myself for not quitting sooner.
  9. Brian - alignment Print the flag on a piece of paper. Tape the "tissue" paper over the printed flag and reprint the flag on to the tissue. Remove the tissue and flip it over and carefully align the printed tissue paper image with the image on the paper. Tape it in position. Re print the image on the reverse side of the tissue paper. Hopefully the images on the two sides match. Having said that your chosen flag looks great.
  10. Eberhard, I didn't have a lot to go on so I looked up retains straps for boat tenders and this is what I found:-
  11. Brian - yep that looks pretty good, have you considered trying the same process but with a single layer of paper printed on both sides?
  12. Brian I'm looking forward to seeing and learning from your flag experiments. I think it is time you stopped pretending this is your first scratch model, you are fooling no one😁.
  13. This week I continued working on the deck mounted items. I had mounted the anchors but not attached the chains so this was the next job. The chains were attached to the anchors with a shackle and then they were lashed to the tripod frames bracing the jib martingales. Next it was time to mount the tender on the deck. I needed webbing straps to hold the tender to the deck and these were made from ripstop tape. Simple attachment brackets were made and these were attached to the straps. The webbing straps were stained black with a permanent marker. I then needed to simulate tightening ratchets. The straps / brackets had to be assembled once the tender was in place. I added the (cotton) painter to the tender before attaching the strap. The close up photos remind me that a good dusting is required. A second strap holds down the stern of the tender. Stern mooring lines were required. Finally the boat davits were completed and mounted.
  14. What are they made from Pat? I cant work out whether they are wooden or printed.
  15. Cort - I did wonder if you planned to live in it. Are you going to paint a wrap around mural for viewing through the windows? I am not sure about the lap top. I don't remember seeing one in the film
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