KeithAug
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Thank you all for the likes and comments. The leather preparation advice is noted and will be put to good use when I get round to finishing the saddles. I decided it was about time for a bit of rigging. Learning from my last build I plan to change my approach. The fore and aft rigging will be done first, then the sails will be mounted and finally the shrouds will be fitted. The fore and aft rigging will be done with Beadalon multi-stand steel plastic coated wire. Before starting I needed to make a number of spreaders. Four of these are needed and their purpose is to prevent the stays from the main and fore masts binding on the upper masts. The sketch below shows their form and their position on the fore mast. The frame part of the spreaders was made form .016" brass sheet. This was marked out and then glued to a piece of scrap !/8" ply. Strips of the correct thickness were then cut on the table saw. 1mm holes were then drilled to locate the spreader bar and attach the 3 shackles. To get the symmetry correct I bent the strips in pairs. To ease handling I stuck each pair to a piece of masking tape before bending. I kept the matched pairs together with a piece of wire. The spreader bar was turned from 1/16" brass rod and the sides / spreader bar were soldered together to form the spreader. I only think I need 4 but made 6 just in case. I then bent up shackles form .020" wire and made strops from the beading wire, wire guards and heat shrink tube. And that is as far as i got.
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Keith - you came out the other side of Hell. Well done - they look pretty good to me.
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Eberhard There seems to be a buoyant market in self build CNC router parts which include shafts, bearings, structural members, lead screws, gear and toothed belt drives etc, etc. they are all fairly cheap. You might be able to knock something together which would be both quick to build and functional.
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Oh dear Keith. My wife has a saying "To be frustrated is to revenge the sins of others upon oneself" unfortunately in this case it doesn't apply as the source of your frustration is yourself. I think the more appropriate quote might be "If at first you don't succeed try, try and try again" or alternatively a Churchill quote "if you are going through hell, KEEP GOING". It might be worth sharing your attempts to show the difficulties - my guess is someone will come up with something.
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Eberhard I see a lot of Meccano at our local auction house. It generally goes for a song as kids these days don't seem to have any enthusiasm for nuts and bolts. I think lego put an end to the Meccano era. I used to have a number 9 set (the second largest) but many years ago my father took it away to play with it. He has been dead for 10 years and I'm not sure what happened to it However I like the idea of making a serving machine from Meccano. You might be able to source more bits for you Marklin set at your local auction.
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Brett - She turned out very well. I enjoyed following
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Thank you Richard. Soon i am going to need a lot of blocks. Repetition isn't one of my favourite activities so I though I would start the block production line and then do a few at a time as needed. I always read the block making posts of other MSW members with interest, but in the end I come back to what I know. I am therefor repeating the method that I used for Altair with a few slight improvements. I need 3 sizes of .2" .24" and .28" (5mm 6mm 7mm) overall height. I start with a strip of mahogany and glue on to this a further strip which I accurately slot cut on the table saw. I then glue on a closing strip. I need 3 of these for the 3 sizes required. I then slit off strips with the width being equal to the width of the finished block. I then need to drill an axial hole. For this I made a holding jig with slots accurately cut to take the strips pictured above. This was fixed with double sided tape to the moveable jaw of the machine vice. This arrangement allowed me to accurately and repeatably drill the axial hole. I then made a fixture to hold the strips for sanding. This was just a slot in a piece of wood with 1 mm pins to locate the strips. With the strips mounted the edges of the blocks were rounded using emery paper glued into a circular slot. At this stage the strips were moved back to the mill and the 2 ends were drilled in various configurations to take attachment fittings. From the strips single double or triple blocks can be cut off as required
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MAKING EYE'S AND HOOKS
KeithAug replied to Peter6172's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you Mark. I find it difficult to ascertain from the web any specific reference to the minimum diameter and I see many references to mal alignment and other quality issues. I was just wondering whether anyone could recommend a specific make that met the criteria. -
MAKING EYE'S AND HOOKS
KeithAug replied to Peter6172's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Peter, I am wondering how the pliers can be soft enough to file down while being strong enough not to bend when being used? Do you harden them? Perhaps you can explain? Ideally the answer would be to buy hardened conical nosed pliers. However I have not yet found any with very small points to the cones. Most available on the web seem to have cones with a minimum diameter of about 1mm, whereas I would agree that 0.5mm is more useful. Does anyone know of conical nosed pliers with very small tip diameters? -
Eberhard, yes I was aware of that problem, hence my remark about making all the blanks first. The larger piece of stock would be mounted and drilled. The blanks would be inserted into the stock and removed without removing it from the chuck thus retaining concentricity. With your equipment i can see why you favour your method. I was just musing on how I would do it with my equipment. Most of the fun is working out the possibilities - as demonstrated by your thoughts on other options.😊
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Yes I had assumed this but I bow to your superior knowledge of the ability of the .2mm shank to resist the cutting forces. However I have an idea that I might try in an idle moment - 1. Drill a .2 mm hole in a spare piece of larger stock - say 2mm. 2, Turn the .2mm shank to length and turn the handle to nominal diameter and length. Then part off or more probably cut off with a jewellers saw. 3. Either soft solder or glue the .2mm shank into hole bored in the larger stock. 4 Finish turn the handle and then heat to break the bond. If I were doing many I think I would make all the blanks first, followed by shaping all the handles. Just for fun I might give it a go on my rather large lathe. But not soon as I don’t have .2mm drills.
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Eberhard, Very tricky turning. Did you consider making the pins the other way round with the handle end towards the chuck. If you didi why did you decided on the method you used?
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The masts are really attractive and very cleanly made. Excellent work.
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Dove by jlefever - 1:48 - Pinky Schooner
KeithAug replied to jlefever's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
She has quite an attractive rear, do you know if it severed a particular purpose? -
Jon - I find that for jobs like this rip stop tape works really well. Being self adhesive it is easy to work with and it take colour really well - either from acrylic paint or even permanent markers. I find painting before application is easier as it produces really clean edges. Being a fabric tape it retains some texture even when painted giving it a realistic canvas effect.
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Roger - agreed I have never used the Lazy Guy arrangement. For the record Germania will be rigged with the beak facing upward.
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Veszett, I think I am back where I started and that is upward and downward facing both have advantages and disadvantages. This is also on the net under "how to rig a spinnaker" and shows the jaws facing downward.
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I thought i had better look up what the internet says about the orientation of the spinnaker pole beak:- Whisker poles should be flown with the jaws facing down. When taking down a whisker pole, the jib sheet usually wants to drop down-and-out of the end fitting. Spinnaker poles are flown jaws facing up, as the spinnaker sheets usually want to lift up-and-out of the end fitting.
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Roger My recollection of what the French crew did was as follows:- The boat started to broach. A crew member released the spinnaker sheet to recover from the broach. The sheet ran out completely leaving the spinnaker flying like a giant flag. The crew then tried to take the spinnaker down by lowering the spinnaker halyard. With no ability to control the sail it inevitably ended up in the sea and then disintegrated. Veszett, thank you - I'm sure your expertise vastly outweighs mine.
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Thank you Tom I had thought that might be the case. The spinnaker pole will be positioned vertically in front of the fore mast. Ready for use.
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Michael - I could wind one. It would only have to be 1mm OD - that's the size of the wire used to make the latch.
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Roger, Thank you for reminding me Roger. I remember sailing off the north coast of Guernsey . The (French) boat ahead was flying a spinnaker but we though the conditions were a bit too variable and didn't have ours up. One particularly violent gust panicked the French crew who dropped the spinnaker to avoid a broach. Unfortunately the crew weren't quite ready and as we sailed past the spinnaker disappeared below the hull. A few moments later about half of it reappeared on the the other side of the boat still attached to the sheets. The remainder was presumably wrapped around the keel. They looked very crest fallen. On another point do you recall whether the beak on the end of the spinnaker boom generally faces up or down. I can see advantages and disadvantages with both up and down orientation, but i just can't remember how we used to do it? Thank you Keith, But i will need a wide angle lens. Eberhard, thank you. I suspect it will look less blingy in a couple of years time.
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Very nicely done, you must do a build log next time.
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