KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Keith / sailor. The mast is of composite construction and clearly the power and instrument cables are routed through trunking on the inside of the mast. This being the case I am unsure why they don't enter the mast below deck level as this would leave the cables less prone to damage and deterioration. The cables in question seem to enter the mast via a pair of junction boxes on both the main and fore masts. Now you have drawn attention to this detail I am going to have to reproduce it ------- Aren't I.
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How are you doing Richard. I hope your distractions from model making are all pleasant ones?
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All progress is painful.
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Keith, things do get difficult at this size and compromises do have to be made, My best suggestion would be to glue up a laminate of various discs - possibly 3 discs of black plastic separated by two discs of wood, then turn the bucket from this. by making the thicknesses to scale the result should look pretty convincing. But then again what do I know and no-one will notice the compromise you have made once the model is finished.
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That's a possibility Pat although I think the original design would also have allowed for removal. I did quite well with the list, knocking off about 70% without accumulating many additions. I have parked the list for the last month or so. My guess I will restart in the spring by which time I should be supercharged by the Covid vaccine.
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Yes I have been following the market developments. I think a high quality inexpensive machine is several years away.
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Thank you Eberhard. I had been thinking of trying for the very reason you identify. However I don't think that I will use it a lot and newer technologies might come to my rescue first. I am waiting for good quality 3D printing to become more affordable.
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Plenty of scope for your imagination Tom, should be fun.
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A fascinating project, I bet few vessel match her for lack of aesthetic appeal. I will watch with interest.
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Keith - I particularly like the way the crew have dug into the coal but feel they will need to repaint he deck white when they get a chance.
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Druxey - My wife has a long list. Allan, I just used the bynes saw with a fine toothed slitting saw blade (108 teeth x 3" diameter). I have blades that I reserve for cutting metal and ones which I only use on wood. As for cooking I can do most things to a modest standard but I am the go to member of the household when it comes to curry's with all the trimmings.
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A very good point Eberhard and I suspect the designer agreed with you. The picture below is one of the later pictures I have of Germania which clearly shows the hex nut albeit with a domed end. You will also notice the brass rubbing strip on then rail edge. However here is an earlier shot with the rail in the "as built" state with no nut and with no rubbing strip. I suspect that at some stage the original design proved a bit fragile and this led to the modifications. I made the nut too large so I may lop it off and revert to the original design. No one is ever going to notice the cheat. Sometimes life needs to be a bit easier.
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Thank you Keith. Dinner is delayed so I will finish the post. I machined flats on a 3/32" rod to form a hexagon and then parted off 8 retaining nuts. These were glued in place and then the pins were inserted into the rail.
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Time for another update. I hope you are all well and that your Christmas won't be too disrupted by the pandemic. Pat - thank you for your comments. So I moved on to something different. On each side of the fore and main masts are a pair of pin rails - 4 in all, and all identical. I have fairly decent photos. I was able to scale the dimensions from a combination of photos and a little plan detail. As usual I made a sketch. Each rail has 8 holes - 6 for pins and 2 for the legs. The rail height is 0.6" and they are 1.25" long. I started with a block of mahogany which I cut to size and then I drilled the 8 holes. The pins will fit in brass collars .04" internal diameter and .092" outside diameter. I pressed and glued 6 pieces of brass tube into the mahogany to create the collars. I then sliced off the 4 rails. The legs were turned from brass rod 1/8" diameter. The legs were bored to take spigots ( at both ends) for mounting to the deck and attaching the rail. I also turned up some small mahogany plinths before assembling the various bits. I also turned the brass washers which fit over the upper spigots and below the retaining nuts. I ground a piece of 1/4" tool steel into the profile of the belaying pin handled then started manufacturing the 24 pins. They were turned from 3/32" rod. I am on cooking duty tonight so I must stop here. More to follow shortly.
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Dan, I fear this build will be over much too quickly.
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- James B Colgate
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I have wondered about that tool for a while, but never taken the plunge. I’ll be interested to see how it works out.
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Allan, your experience with silkspan (paper) will be quite informative when I come to make sails for Germania. I am watching with interest but as you progress I would welcome your view on how applicable it is for much larger sails.
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Tim - Yes, your attention to detail is better than mine. I will now have to rectify matters.
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On retirement I promised myself that I wasn't going to embark on any project that would become a chore. I am now in retirement year 8 and despite a number of close shaves to date i have not failed.
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Tim - I don't believe so. I'm pretty sure that the ventilators are turned individually and manually by the crew.
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Allan, so did I. I remember converting to silk after the frustration of tissue which seemed to puncture on every landing. I’m assuming silkspan lies somewhere between the two in terms of robustness.
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