KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Thank you Dirk - I hope you don't mean it put you to sleep. Actually I prefer Gin - Bombay Sapphire. -
Mark - My plan is to model the boat with her sails up. The owner may be wealthy but he doesn't like to bounce his best crystal, silverware and Bollinger on to the deck as she heals. He doesn't mind the financial loss but the additional skivvies necessary to clean the deck take up too much room. Eberhard, Druxey, Keith, Pat, John, Steve, Richard - thank you.
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Thank you Richard. Unfortunately not a very productive week. Really quite hot and a lot of garden jobs to get on top of. I got on with the deck dining table. This has a flanged support leg - quite unattractive in brown paint but much better in brass. .8 1.1 2.1 I turned the 0.80" long leg as a cone. This was then transferred this to the mill to cut away the excess metal to create the triangular flanged leg. The leg was then parted off to length and a 1/8" diameter spigot was soldered on to the lower end to allow it to be mounted on the deck. I cut the base bracket from a piece of bar and drilled a 1/8" hole for the spigot and 4off .025" holes for the mounting bolts. The base plates were then slit to thickness and then cut off and polished. The table top is 1.1' x 2.1' with the two leaves extended. This was made from .060" planks with scribed lines to simulate the leaves. Wooden plinths were mounted on the deck and given a couple of coats of poly before the brass plates were added. The legs were then added followed by the table top. While I was at it I mounted the base plates for the crutch. 4 eyes are located at each corner of the plate - very small and made from .020" diameter brass wire. I know I said that I was going to get on with the vents - but I got diverted.
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John, Keith, Pat, Gary, Phil. Thank you for the feedback and the good advice re photo stacking - I will need to do a bit of reading up on the technique - I feel an internet search coming on.
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Eberhard - no I have not but I can see that it would work. The basic problem I have is that I keep an old camera in the workshop and not withstanding the good level of artificial light it isn't anywhere near as bight as outdoor natural light. The less than ideal light coupled with a hand held 15 year old bridge camera means that I create the problem. What I need to do is move the model outside, mount my new camera on a tripod and shoot with a small aperture That should give me a greater depth of field. But failing that I'll have a look at your suggestion.
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Eberhard - yes I agree. I can see that the Germania pivot arrangement will keep the back more upright than a simpler arrangement of a single pivot point with a fixed position back. Presumably they felt that a more upright seating position was beneficial, particularly when dining. Keith, I find the camera does not cope well with getting the the whole deck in focus. I want to get all the vents made and fitted over the next few weeks and then I'll have a go at a few overall shots. Thank you for the feedback
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Thank you Keith. I finished off the benches starting with the hinge bars. I judged the size on these from photos and made them of .055" x .031" cross section brass. Strips were slit off from .031" brass sheet and then drilled with .025" holes. The 8 longer pieces were then cut down to length and slipped over a pair of sewing pins. Aligned in this way the bars were filed to length and the ends were rounded. I slit a series of slots in a piece of ply to create a rudimentary jig. I cut a number of slots until I was happy with the geometry. Brass pins were inserted at the intersections and then then junctions were soldered. The hinge bars were then cleaned up. The bench seats were drilled to take the lower ends of hinge bars. A piece of poly card was cut to position the back of the seat and attached with double sided tape. With this in place the backs were located in place and drilled to tape the upper pin. The backs were then glued in place.
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A very interesting subject Brian. It will be a pleasure to see your progress. Good luck with the build.
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All looking very neat. Yes very hot today, fortunately my workshop ( former garage) is north facing and on days like today is the coolest place in the house. Bad in winter but good in summer.
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Hello Shipman - sometimes I take the easy way out. In this instance trying to inset them seemed a step too far. I console myself that different designs exist and in some instances the band is on the surface:- Thank you Keith, Kevin, Boris, Eberhard - but as Shipman righty points out - plenty of room for improvement.
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Pat, Roger, Richard - thank you for the comments. Also thanks to everyone the likes and visits. I gave the various deck houses a coat of Poly (the first of a number of coats). Then proceeded to the deck benches and table. The deck benches have hinged backs (trolley bus style) so they can face either out or in. Mine wont be operable and will face inwards. The most distinctive feature is the pivot bars and I will try to do a reasonable reproduction of these. The sketch was pretty basic - predominantly focusing on the major dimensions. The bench seats are 2.1" long x .650" wide x .430" high to the seat and .860" hight to the top of the back. The hinge bars will be .055" wide x .03" thick. The bench seats were built on oak cores. All the cladding mahogany panel pieces were cut and the oak cores were drilled to take 1/8" location pegs The bench sides were clad. I used a card template to locate the benches in their correct position and then drilled through the location holes. The bench tops and backs were then made out of .060" thick planks. I now need to get on with the hinge bars which will be a bit more of a fiddle.
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Well Javier that seemed to take a little under 2 weeks. Amazing.
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I should have remembered that. But it does beg the question how she coped when one engine was being maintained. Short circular trips probably. Rigging looking like it will make for some interesting posts - looking forward to watching it develop.
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Jon - yes we are all getting more time to perfect our skills. Keep safe.
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Yes it worked very well, another idea to tuck away for later. She is looking very good. On a different point - I assume these vessels needed to be reasonably manoeuvrable. But with a fairly shallow draught (and rudder) I wonder how they achieved it. Could the paddle wheels turn at different speeds?
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Rob - great idea for ready use tool storage - I assume magnetic strips - must copy that. Rigging looking great also.
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So on to the life rings - the real ones come in two standard sizes 30" and 24" outside diameter. Scaling the photographs confirmed that the ones I needed were of the 24" type or 0.66" diameter at model scale. I picked one that looked about right from the web. I made the ring from .040" thick plasticard. I cut 6 pieces but in the end only needed 4. The rings were cut to shape and profiled while attached to the end of a piece of aluminium bar. The shaping was done with a needle file while the rings were on the lathe. Four rings were made and then joined. A piece of dowel was then turned to be a push fit in the bore and this was mounted in a square collet block to allow the 4 scallops to be cut out with a .080" diameter end mill before being drilled with a .024" hole. The rings were painted and thin plastic strips were glued to form the 4 reflective strips. Finally nylon string was attached to the 4 holes. A wooden template was then used to drill the deck to take the crutch. Wooden plinths were attached above the holes. And then the two life rings were glued in place. The masking is to protect the deck from the poly applied to the plinths.
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Mark, the very obvious "waist" in the bulwarks is really quite an interesting feature. It will be really interesting to see it planked. Do you have any idea why they did it like that?
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You certainly seem to be cracking on. Are you planning to add sails, what I find is that it is really difficult to get sufficient tension in the forestay to counteract the pull of the jib sheet. The forestay tends to bow more than it would on a full sized vessel. I will be interested to see how you solve the problem (if you do have sails).
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I spent some time completing the crutch. The diagonals were fitted to the pre-assembled crutch. Initially pinned in place with sewing pins while the end fittings were glued in place. Once the length was set the braces were removed and the wires were filed half through at the intersection position. The diagonals were then permanently installed with a dab of CA fixing the intersection. I then needed to make the circular plates that hold the life rings. They are 0.66" diameter and I started by making these form 1/32" ply. I turned them pressure clamped between the tailstock and lathe chuck. I started by putting a 1" dowel in the chuck and turning it down to 0.7". A section was then parted off and sandpaper was glued to the 2 flat surfaces, thus creating 2 pressure pads. Two 1" square 1/32" ply sheets were then clamped between the pressure pads using the tailstock to apply the clamping pressure. The pressure pads and the ply sheets were then turned down to the required 0.66" diameter. Having got to this stage i then changed tack and decided to make the discs out of plasticard (basically to avoid painting) The discs were turned by a similar process to that described with the exception that I used a piece of aluminium in the chuck. I also glued on and turned a central boss to form a spacer. The "v" block provided the alignment while the 2 discs were glued together. At his stage I also drilled .025" holes in the starboard column of the crutch to take the life buoy lights. Finally I glued in place the lifebuoy mounting plates.
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Mark - I had also wondered whether they were used as vents - but had no idea what for. You may be correct in your suggestion of use.
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