KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Lovely work on the wheel and linkage Richard. -
Schooners - I all use a sanding drum in my mill. The drum has 120 grit paper and is 1.375 diameter. I run it at 1000 rpm and it removes the frame edges really quite quickly.
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Hubert - yes I think we are all going to be impacted for many months. Thank you for the compliment.
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Thank you for your comments Eberhard. I agree small bits do take a disproportionate amount of time and eyestrain is a limiting factor. I must get more practiced in wearing a magnifying visor, to date i have always failed to master the technique. Yes Richard modelling can become a bit obsessive. Pat - actually no filing involved - the following should explain:- I first turned the diameters "A" on the rod to the upper right. I then soldered on the elbow at point "B". I then cut off the the upper right rod at point "C". I then held the elbow in the lathe chuck using the shaft at "D". Then I turned a diameter at "E" using a parting tool. This formed the spigot diameter "F". I then parted off the elbow from the shaft. The flange was then turned and fitted on the spigot.
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A lovely model Geert. It has been a pleasure following your progress. It may be some time before we see the gallery pictures so keep safe until then.
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Hello Schooners, For the outside of the frame I always find it best to cut as near the line as possible with a scroll saw and then finish to size with a disc sander for convex curves and a spindle sander for concave curves. For the inside of the frames I just take care and use the scroll saw. I cut the edges square and then fair the frames with a sanding block once they are built up. Like you I attach the patterns with glue stick.
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Nothing much to do in the UK anymore - all entertainment closed down and restaurants and pubs shut. The only relief is shipbuilding, which isn't a bad thing. I continued with the anchor winch. The brackets for the hand wheels were finished by soldering on a mounting spigot. The anchor chain comes off the Gypsy and then passes through a 90 degree elbow before disappearing below deck. The elbows had been on my mind some time as to the best way to make them. In the end I decided to make them out of .125" brass rod that was drilled to form a bore. I purposely left the wall section thick to prevent collapse of the tube. From the sketch you can see the bend is tight given the rod diameter. I made a bending jig to assist with the forming of the bend and annealed the rod a couple of times during bending. It looked better after polishing. I then cut the elbow to height before turning a flange and spigot on another piece of .125" rod snd then joining the two parts with soft solder. The open end of the elbow has a flange. The elbow was turned to form a register for the flange. The flange was also turned. The flange was glued in place. The elbow was then mounted on to the winch base plate. I then mounted the hand wheel brackets and sorted out the hand wheel shaft. The .040" drill is providing temporory alignment. The chain was also installed.
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Greg - you can get smallish versions but the mechanism means they do tend to be quite tall and possibly a bit too tall for a Sherline mill. The solution shown by Eberhard is probably the way to go. Mark, I agree with Steve. On smaller yachts I tend to use my sea boot as a break but it is not very sensible on heavier chains. In general the answer is yes. In my mind eye bits are alway much bigger than they turn out. In consequence I find myself forced into details that are a bit more challenging than I envisaged at the outset. Hi John. Unfortunately as Keith says we all have to practice social distancing. Good think too as the bump might transfer some of my neurosis. Druxey, Michael, Richard thank you for your comments.
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Thank you Eberhard, Pat, Keith, Michael, Gary and Richard. Strange times in which we live - today I had a conversation with a neighbour when we were both on opposite sides of the road, people pass in the park while maintaining a significant distance. Apparently dog food is in short supply - even the dogs seem to have caught the hoarding bug. Anyway - on with the winches:- The chain sprockets were made in two halves. The outer diameter was calculated based on measurements of the chain. Six scallops were cut out on the mill using the hex collet block. The halves were then parted off. I then made sure the sprocket sizing was correct by fitting the chain. The cable drum was then turned and a spigot was made on which to mount the components. The winch was glued together with CA. Small pins were then turned and glued in the holes of the break lugs. You can just about see the treads on the .040" rod passing through the lugs. The right hand one is fitted in the next photo. The break hand wheel bracket was made having done a rudimentary sketch. The compound vice came in handy for cutting the angles. The brackets were formed in tandem. Before being slit off.
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Yes Keith. My son and his wife departed with our granddaughter (age 5 months) earlier today. Both parents are doctors in major London hospitals. It’s going to be a long time before we see any of them again. May you and your loved ones keep safe.
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I enjoyed the cargo and ship fuel solutions. All looking rather good, well done.
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Michael - loco's is good....... I find myself washing my hands even when I haven't been out - such is my paranoia. It does seem that Corvid 19 has an age prejudice.
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Best wishes Eberhard - within 2 weeks we will be in the same position. We are currently resisting the urge to join in the panic buying sweeping the UK supermarkets.
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I moved on to the anchor winches starting with the design sketches. The winches sit on a wooden plinths surmounted by a metal plates. The winches and the pipe feeding the chain to the chain locker are mounted on the plates. The plates were made from .031" thick brass sheet - accurately drilled for the winch and the chain pipe and then filed to shape using buttons. Once shaped the brass plates were finished with 5000 grit wet and dry paper. The wooden plinths were then formed from .031" mahogany sheet. The deckhouse was given 3 coats of poly (but I think I will do more). I then made a sketch of the winches using the photographs from the earlier post. The winch has 3 main parts - the lowest being the break, the middle being the chain sprocket and the top being a cable winch. I started with the brake which is 0.1" thick. The first part of the brake was the lugs for the friction strap. These were milled from .025" rod and then rounded (using buttons) with a file. The 2 drums were turned on the lathe (but not parted off). Slots were then milled in the drums to take the 2 lugs. The lugs were then soft soldered in place. The rod (with lugs attached) was then retuned to the lathe and the lugs were machined to form the upper and lower brackets. The drums were then parted off. Finally .040" rod was treaded to form the clamping screw and circular bosses were turned to make the clamping pins. The thread can be felt but it is virtually invisible to the eye or on the camera. Next the anchor sprockets.........
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Very nice work Eberhard. I noted with interest your use of sewing needles, a good idea which I will copy.
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Steve - thank you - I will certainly try it. Noel - thank you for the technical description - much appreciated.
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Yes Richard - a 3 inch hinge would be .083" at scale size. I will put a piece of wire in place to simulate the spine of the hinge - but that will be it. Druxey - Good idea - I will try it - thank you.
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Eberhard - or alternatively make a scraper of the required radius. The turning method is quite wasteful as the side of the cutter has to be on the centreline and hence because of the kerf only one of the quadrants is usable.
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She turned out very nicely Kevin.
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The rear face of the deckhouse has bifold doors - at scale size these are quite small and I won't be making hinges. The 4 door are made as a strip. Together with associated panels they were glued on to the core. The side panels were left over long and were cut back to size on the mill. The top plank was glued in place where the panels had been cut back and then a piece of mahogany was turned and slit to form the corner pieces. The top was constructed from 0.1" wide by .060" thick planks separated by .006" card to simulate the caulking. The hatch top cover was similarly made. The tape is protecting the front corners that were made from turned brass rod. This reinforcement is included because of the proximity of the anchor chain. 2 holes were drilled to take the vents. Mahogany inserts were turned to simulate the plinths on which the vents sit.
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Eberhard, that is some way off yet. I have a lot to make and I will make them as a batch. I do have a plan of sorts. Seems the most sensible interpretation Mark - thank you to both of you.
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Thank you for the comments Paul, Druxey, Richard and Pat. Also thanks for all the likes. I am continuing working on the foredeck specifically I am moving on to the foremost deckhouse and the anchor winches on either side of it. I am able to get basic sizing data for the deckhouse from the small plans downloaded from the web. I also have good photographic information:- With this information I was able to create sketch plans. I don't have any detail of the inside of the hatch so I am modelling it with the hatch doors closed. I am building the mahogany panelling on a solid oak core. The core was shaped on the mill. Planks were cut and glued in place at the deck level. Then individual panels and frames were cut to clad each side. The panel definition isn't good in this shot - it is actually much better in the flesh and even better when painted with poly on a test piece that I made. The next post will show this.
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