KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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A very interesting subject Brian. It will be a pleasure to see your progress. Good luck with the build. -
All looking very neat. Yes very hot today, fortunately my workshop ( former garage) is north facing and on days like today is the coolest place in the house. Bad in winter but good in summer.
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Hello Shipman - sometimes I take the easy way out. In this instance trying to inset them seemed a step too far. I console myself that different designs exist and in some instances the band is on the surface:- Thank you Keith, Kevin, Boris, Eberhard - but as Shipman righty points out - plenty of room for improvement.
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Pat, Roger, Richard - thank you for the comments. Also thanks to everyone the likes and visits. I gave the various deck houses a coat of Poly (the first of a number of coats). Then proceeded to the deck benches and table. The deck benches have hinged backs (trolley bus style) so they can face either out or in. Mine wont be operable and will face inwards. The most distinctive feature is the pivot bars and I will try to do a reasonable reproduction of these. The sketch was pretty basic - predominantly focusing on the major dimensions. The bench seats are 2.1" long x .650" wide x .430" high to the seat and .860" hight to the top of the back. The hinge bars will be .055" wide x .03" thick. The bench seats were built on oak cores. All the cladding mahogany panel pieces were cut and the oak cores were drilled to take 1/8" location pegs The bench sides were clad. I used a card template to locate the benches in their correct position and then drilled through the location holes. The bench tops and backs were then made out of .060" thick planks. I now need to get on with the hinge bars which will be a bit more of a fiddle.
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Well Javier that seemed to take a little under 2 weeks. Amazing.
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I should have remembered that. But it does beg the question how she coped when one engine was being maintained. Short circular trips probably. Rigging looking like it will make for some interesting posts - looking forward to watching it develop.
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Jon - yes we are all getting more time to perfect our skills. Keep safe.
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Yes it worked very well, another idea to tuck away for later. She is looking very good. On a different point - I assume these vessels needed to be reasonably manoeuvrable. But with a fairly shallow draught (and rudder) I wonder how they achieved it. Could the paddle wheels turn at different speeds?
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Rob - great idea for ready use tool storage - I assume magnetic strips - must copy that. Rigging looking great also.
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So on to the life rings - the real ones come in two standard sizes 30" and 24" outside diameter. Scaling the photographs confirmed that the ones I needed were of the 24" type or 0.66" diameter at model scale. I picked one that looked about right from the web. I made the ring from .040" thick plasticard. I cut 6 pieces but in the end only needed 4. The rings were cut to shape and profiled while attached to the end of a piece of aluminium bar. The shaping was done with a needle file while the rings were on the lathe. Four rings were made and then joined. A piece of dowel was then turned to be a push fit in the bore and this was mounted in a square collet block to allow the 4 scallops to be cut out with a .080" diameter end mill before being drilled with a .024" hole. The rings were painted and thin plastic strips were glued to form the 4 reflective strips. Finally nylon string was attached to the 4 holes. A wooden template was then used to drill the deck to take the crutch. Wooden plinths were attached above the holes. And then the two life rings were glued in place. The masking is to protect the deck from the poly applied to the plinths.
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Mark, the very obvious "waist" in the bulwarks is really quite an interesting feature. It will be really interesting to see it planked. Do you have any idea why they did it like that?
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You certainly seem to be cracking on. Are you planning to add sails, what I find is that it is really difficult to get sufficient tension in the forestay to counteract the pull of the jib sheet. The forestay tends to bow more than it would on a full sized vessel. I will be interested to see how you solve the problem (if you do have sails).
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I spent some time completing the crutch. The diagonals were fitted to the pre-assembled crutch. Initially pinned in place with sewing pins while the end fittings were glued in place. Once the length was set the braces were removed and the wires were filed half through at the intersection position. The diagonals were then permanently installed with a dab of CA fixing the intersection. I then needed to make the circular plates that hold the life rings. They are 0.66" diameter and I started by making these form 1/32" ply. I turned them pressure clamped between the tailstock and lathe chuck. I started by putting a 1" dowel in the chuck and turning it down to 0.7". A section was then parted off and sandpaper was glued to the 2 flat surfaces, thus creating 2 pressure pads. Two 1" square 1/32" ply sheets were then clamped between the pressure pads using the tailstock to apply the clamping pressure. The pressure pads and the ply sheets were then turned down to the required 0.66" diameter. Having got to this stage i then changed tack and decided to make the discs out of plasticard (basically to avoid painting) The discs were turned by a similar process to that described with the exception that I used a piece of aluminium in the chuck. I also glued on and turned a central boss to form a spacer. The "v" block provided the alignment while the 2 discs were glued together. At his stage I also drilled .025" holes in the starboard column of the crutch to take the life buoy lights. Finally I glued in place the lifebuoy mounting plates.
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Mark - I had also wondered whether they were used as vents - but had no idea what for. You may be correct in your suggestion of use.
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love your attention to detail. working under water isn't something I have tried out but must give it a go. My guess is that the hole in the base is for a tripping line. When an anchor gets snagged it can sometimes be released by pulling it from the opposite end. During my sailing days we often rigged tripping lines particularly when anchoring over a rocky bottom.
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Just catching up Phil, so much detail, you must be very dedicated to your task.
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Jon, at this tare you should finish it before the next millennium. do you have a target timescale?
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I know what you mean, the more light I put in the more I need, I think the main problem is my eyes. The blocks and shackles look really nice - worth the effort.
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I like this option best, but of course it all comes down to the choice of the household. When I get stuck I ask the eventual owner ( my daughter ) what she thinks and go with that.
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Beautifully accurate work and so very quick. Impressive.
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Pat, you are correct. The saw is in the mill spindle. The workpiece is in a chuck that is mounted on a rotary table, with the rotary table mounted vertically on the milling table. I should have explained better. Thank you for the feedback. druxey, thank you.
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