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amateur

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  1. amateur
    I did use it, but stopped using it. just plain PVA was far easier, and way cheaper..... Jan
  2. amateur
    Hi Hans, This is a topic getting quite a lot of interest in the Vasa forum: Fred Hocker states that the frames are not vertical in that area of the ship, and that the gunport-sides are not coinciding with the frames. Besides: when looked at exactly at 90-degree, the aft gunports of Vasa are indeed not completely square, but it is the angle of the picture that suggests more than there actually s. Most of the gunports of Wasa are (almost perfectly) square and not trapezoid.... see this drawing (issued by the Wasa-museum) http://forum.game-labs.net/index.php?/topic/4220-wasa-1628-swedish-warship-with-plans/ Jan
  3. amateur
    Goldleaf is always used on a red base coat, just for the same reasons. looking good, this coat of arms. jan
  4. amateur
    There are some 17/18th century shipwreck on display in the Netherlands. The surviving hullplanks inthese wrecks show a large range of variation with respect to framing, planking, dropplanks (just ening in a sharp pointy end), placement of butt-joints, use of scarf-jounts etcetera. Almost none of these correspond to the existing witten texts on plaking from that era..... Lesson: shipbuilders tend to be pragmatic, and using their materials as economically as the customer would allow. It is mainly (English) navy that tended to adhere to strict rule (at least: on paper an din the dockyard models, no idea whether or not that extended to real ships as well.....) Jan
  5. amateur
    Ah, well, getting blind, I guess....... Thanks anyhow
  6. amateur
    There used to be a button 'report this post'. Am I overlooking it in the new lay-out, or has it vanished? (I was looking for it, as a Russian guy tries to sell us cannabis-seeds, which - as far as I'm concerned - has nothing to do with the core-business of this site) Jan
  7. amateur
    Thanks for the work! Jan
  8. amateur
    You made it an alternative frame, sounds sensible
  9. amateur
    Looking great (and large ) By the way: how did you solve the number-9 issue? Jan
  10. amateur
    Nice truck! but the wood quality differs quite a lot, yes. I have this cross section on my wishlist, but I am looking for materiales that are to be handled without too many powertools, and that aren't not too expensive (I expect quite a lot redundancy, due tobeginners errors....) Jan
  11. amateur
    I asked, while everyone keeps saying that basswood will never llok crisp. I just started to wonder, as these beams (at least in the pictures) look rather crisp to me jan
  12. amateur
    what wood did you use for the deck-beams: is it basswood? Jan
  13. amateur
    Finally, a proper four-stacker jan
  14. amateur
    Hi Drazen, Looks good. Next the keel, and sternpost, before attaching the last two (or three) planks. Planking almost done (for those who didn't realize: in these Dutch ships, all planks end in the rabbet in the sternpost, apart from the lower two (or three) that are running all the way to the aft end of the sternpost.) Jan
  15. amateur
    It took a lot of hours work, but man, what a result! Jan
  16. amateur
    your hourly wages for this job must be down to sub-zero values..... But the result is stunning: the owner of the model should be pleased: Jan
  17. amateur
    Are you going to do furled sails, or sails that are partially taken in ( like in the original Heller version ) Jan
  18. amateur
    There was no real progress over the last months. There will be none in th coming. As we are going to move over to a ne place, everything will be boxed up for the coming months. And no: the new place has no base,ent that could be turned into a wonderfull workshop Jan
  19. amateur
    Photo's are lying yes, but most of the time I see things in my macro-pictures that aren't visible to the naked eye. So I tend to believe pictures. Still, I think you are doning a great job to the model! Jan
  20. amateur
    Two tips from my own practice: Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank. Jan
  21. amateur
    Two tips from my own practice: Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank. Jan
  22. amateur
    Why only 'relatively happy', why not just unconditionally happy? From the pivctures it looks all fine. Jan
  23. amateur
    Thanks, would never have figured out that one. Jan
  24. amateur
    What is the rightmost part? The other two i recignize (atbleast, more or less) Jan
  25. amateur
    Actually, i dont think this will be a rewarding kit. It looks like a bunch of slightly-out of-scale-put-together-parts. It is not size as such which is the determining factor, it is scale. Anything below1:64 is kind of fiddly. A large scale model of a small ship is easiervin that respect. Plastic is a different terrain, but not necessarily easier. Most plastic models are small scale, and therefore have their problems in painting, and detailing. Mking a convincing model out of a plastic kit is something quite daunting:) With respect to starter: I would choose a model of a relatively snall ship (not a rowing boat;) ), from a fairly known company (so you can find fellow builders) Solid hull or pob? Each their own problems. I did a couple of solid hulls when i was a kid. Problem was that the raw hulls in the kot weren't symmetrical. Took me ages to get them reasonable .... when the basic is OK, it should be easier. Jan

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