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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    Experience with it yes - on a model no. Several years ago I used it to do a touch up job on a fire truck fender. It worked fine for that job (the pin striping repair was another issue) and the results are equal to a spray can finish - that is to say, not as good as an airbrush. If you can do a decent job with a spray can you can expect similar results with this item but it's only advantage over a rattle can is the ability to use whatever color you need rather than what might be available in a stock rattle can. I can't recommend this over an airbrush as you have no control over the spray pattern - just like a rattle can. An airbrush is the way to go for model painting. We don't usually paint areas big enough to need a spray bigger than an airbrush delivers and we most often are painting small areas that are better painted with an airbrush with a lot less masking needed. Kurt
  2. kurtvd19
    We were also shocked at their meeting room rental prices compared to their other rates and to other places nearby. The 2006 NRG Conference was held there - under former ownership. We are still pretty darn close to the Museum and the conference hotel is closer to the entertainment and dining area od downtown SD from what Mike tells me. Kurt
  3. kurtvd19
    Yeah they are high - like 10X what we can afford for meeting space! Kurt
  4. kurtvd19
    San Diego on October 6-7-8, 2016. Conference hotel is the Downtown Double Tree right up the hill within easy walking distance from the San Diego Maritime Museum. Kurt
  5. kurtvd19
    Hal: Welcome to the hobby. Don't try to cut through the piece in one cut. Take a light cut and then go over it several times to cut through the piece. If it's a thick piece, cut outside the line and then sand the edge to the line to avoid any tendency to angle your cut. Another thing to watch out for is the wood grain and the tendency of a blade to follow the grain - again light cuts will help to avoid this problem. If you are having a problem with the wood splitting along the grain and taking off a part of the piece you are making, make cuts across the grain first so that the tendency of wood to split along the grain doesn't affect your cut. This is something that will get easier with more experience. But be sure to use only SHARP blades. If the blade dulls either replace it or hone the edge - a sharp blade is a safe blade while a dull blade will not cut the wood well and can and will slip and cut you just fine. Kurt
  6. kurtvd19
    Marcus: The NRG Journals are preserved in their entirety on CD's that we sell - see the NRG Store on the NRG web site. We have every issue up to the last ten years available on the CD's with a new CD to be done next year at the conclusion of the next issue of the Journal that will include the last ten years. We also sell copies of many of the articles on the NRG web site for $2.50 each as PDF's that one can download and save to your hard drive. We are getting more articles up but due to a possible switch to the (internal - nobody will notice the switch) operating system of the NRG web site we are holding off putting more articles up to the web site as the webmaster doesn't want or need to do everything 2X. Once the change is made we will continue to post additional articles. Unfortunately the article you want isn't one of the articles now posted. It is a good article and I used it when I built the WEB several years ago. Send me a PM and I will email a copy of the PDF to you. Kurt
  7. kurtvd19
    Glen: Another great model in the making. I am avidly following your posts. After hearing your presentation at the 2015 NRG Conference in St. Louis on the Heroine I was hoping you would post your work on the model here. Thanks for sharing with us. Kurt
  8. kurtvd19
    I have found that the thinner the blade the better the chance of not breaking any parts and as Keith said, take light cuts rather than doing it in one cut. AN Xacto blade or in my opinion the best is a scalpel blade as they are very thin & very sharp. Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    Ken: It's really looking good. Hooks look great - like how you flattened the hook portion. Kurt
  10. kurtvd19
    NICE work. It is looking great. Kurt
  11. kurtvd19
    Very nice work Ken. Kurt
  12. kurtvd19
    Toni: Great work. Like Greg says, the set up takes the time - but great results are being achieved. Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    I usually have at least two going at a time as far as building goes. The research into future projects is also ongoing with multiple projects. As far as the keeping stuff organized, it helps that I have a 26' x 42' dedicated shop/office space with multiple benches and tables. The project being worked on at the moment is at the main bench with the other(s) on other tables or atop file cabinets. The various pieces that are not with the main part of the project are in plastic storage bins with either movable dividers or permanent dividers. It's easy to stack them as the parts can't get mixed. Keeping the research stuff organized is helped with file cabinets and plastic storage bins with hanging file folders - these too can be stacked. Writing is kept organized in the computer using a great writing program called Scrivener. Much easier to organize data and writing in it than in MS Word as each project has it's own "Notebook" and the dividers within it are sort of like a notebook where you just click on the folder and it's all in front of you. It's a serious writing tool - cheap only $40 but it has a real steep learning curve but once you know what you are doing it is great. Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    Mike: Are you bringing any pickled moose lips to go with the beer? Kurt
  15. kurtvd19
    I just threw out that link as a FYI. I have the Micro Mark variable speed drill press with the extended column and like it a lot. I use it a lot but often just use my Craftsman drill press that sits right along side - but with the UMM micro chuck. Perfectly acceptable results using either. Kurt
  16. kurtvd19
    I just got an email ad from Model Expo and they have a limited number of small drill presses for $69.99 - 57% off - using the offer code SERIOUS. Here is the link to the drill press - showing the regular price. I am not vouching for the quality of the tool - just making everybody aware of the sale - good till 9-21 or stock of 15 is gone as it says in the ad. http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=bd170 Kurt
  17. kurtvd19
    Max: Check out this link for a great mini-chuck - this guy's tools are great - and not expensive at all. I have this chuck and it is very good. I even adapted one for my dental drill. http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_161&products_id=3338 Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    A pin vise or a small drill chuck can be chucked into the larger drill press. Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    Chuck: Actually I am working on two fully framed models. One is a commission for the WI Maritime Museum and the other is a canal boat from the Illinois & Michigan Canal. The first is 75% done and the latter is on the drawing board/CAD/final research stage. Kurt
  20. kurtvd19
    Mick: I am not building the Washington - just following your build with great interest. Too busy shipping plan sets out and all the day to day NRG stuff to tackle this one. I am very interested in seeing the way you are laying out and making up the parts for the whole stern area. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    Mick: Absolutely a great job. Your clear explanations and photos are surely helping a lot. Chuck asked the question before I had a chance and your photos and explanation were very helpful. Thanks, Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    I agree with Chuck's opinion on the line size - the blocks are smaller. I am sure I used the thinner line on the upper spar. Kurt
  23. kurtvd19
    Steve: Yep, they are referring to a permanent pin. The yard isn't all that heavy and pinning it to the mast allows the lifting rigging to be tightened so that it looks like the weight of the yard is pulling down against the rigging. A pin isn't seen and is easy to undo if needed - unlike glue. You can rely on the other rigging lines for downward pull w/o pinning. The nice thing is that you can check how you like it w/o the pin as long as you don't secure the control lines (as it tells you not to do until after the awning structure is complete) and if you are happy - fine. If not then you can pin the yards to the mast. Kurt
  24. kurtvd19
    The stove looks great! Kurt
  25. kurtvd19
    Stay-Brite blackens the same as silver solder in my experience. Have never noticed any difference in the blackening of the Stay-Brite compared to the brass part of the assembly. Bob, will you be showing the blackening of the parts Wednesday night? Or are you leaving them natural until after the meeting so we can see the joints? Kurt

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