kurtvd19

Thanks for the Klean Klay reference Kurt, I have never heard of it before. Apparently much nicer than my kids clay. But then I was "multi tasking" my kids toys.

I found that the wire tools similar to what is shown here are finer but also a bit deeper/longer even this type makes a pretty smooth copy of the contour.  A simple "fairing" of the points marked onto the piecec being made to fit will make a very close fit.  The one drawback to this type of tool is the limited depth.  They can also be laid into the hull at an angle making the relative depth workable.  I have used these mostly to check symmetry.
Have also used Klean Klay modeling clay to precisely match the contour but have found that some sort of support for the clay is needed - an undersized bulkhead like piece of heavy card or polystyrene with the clay on the outer edge so that it's not distorted when removing it to transfer the contour.  Klean Klay is a non-drying clay that doesn't leave oil behind when removed and is often used to dam up areas when filling with expoxy or resin for reinforcements or making molds.

I found that the wire tools similar to what is shown here are finer but also a bit deeper/longer even this type makes a pretty smooth copy of the contour.  A simple "fairing" of the points marked onto the piecec being made to fit will make a very close fit.  The one drawback to this type of tool is the limited depth.  They can also be laid into the hull at an angle making the relative depth workable.  I have used these mostly to check symmetry.
Have also used Klean Klay modeling clay to precisely match the contour but have found that some sort of support for the clay is needed - an undersized bulkhead like piece of heavy card or polystyrene with the clay on the outer edge so that it's not distorted when removing it to transfer the contour.  Klean Klay is a non-drying clay that doesn't leave oil behind when removed and is often used to dam up areas when filling with expoxy or resin for reinforcements or making molds.

I found that the wire tools similar to what is shown here are finer but also a bit deeper/longer even this type makes a pretty smooth copy of the contour.  A simple "fairing" of the points marked onto the piecec being made to fit will make a very close fit.  The one drawback to this type of tool is the limited depth.  They can also be laid into the hull at an angle making the relative depth workable.  I have used these mostly to check symmetry.
Have also used Klean Klay modeling clay to precisely match the contour but have found that some sort of support for the clay is needed - an undersized bulkhead like piece of heavy card or polystyrene with the clay on the outer edge so that it's not distorted when removing it to transfer the contour.  Klean Klay is a non-drying clay that doesn't leave oil behind when removed and is often used to dam up areas when filling with expoxy or resin for reinforcements or making molds.

I found that the wire tools similar to what is shown here are finer but also a bit deeper/longer even this type makes a pretty smooth copy of the contour.  A simple "fairing" of the points marked onto the piecec being made to fit will make a very close fit.  The one drawback to this type of tool is the limited depth.  They can also be laid into the hull at an angle making the relative depth workable.  I have used these mostly to check symmetry.
Have also used Klean Klay modeling clay to precisely match the contour but have found that some sort of support for the clay is needed - an undersized bulkhead like piece of heavy card or polystyrene with the clay on the outer edge so that it's not distorted when removing it to transfer the contour.  Klean Klay is a non-drying clay that doesn't leave oil behind when removed and is often used to dam up areas when filling with expoxy or resin for reinforcements or making molds.

Beaders/Jewelers use a piece called a "crimp" with special pliers to attach the crimp and lock the wires in place.  Small diameter tube - various finishes - put the end of the wire through the crimp, thread on the eyebolt, hook or turnbuckle and put the end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp the tube with the pliers and cut the excess wire off.
 
The photo shows a crimp at the top of the turnbuckle on the wire rigging line.  This is a 1:12 scale model with 7 strand SS wire about 0.015 diameter. 

Use the rubber bands over the molds and transoms - no need for in between - no distortion.

Use the rubber bands over the molds and transoms - no need for in between - no distortion.

I reckon that I owe the group a comeback on what I did with the information posted here. I'm a little shy about posting my work since I can see that I am in the presence of master craftsmen. Please keep in mind that I am just a beginner. 
 
I marked the video from @P_Budzik as "the solution", since I thought that was the single most helpful post. 
 
I purchased the UMM SCR-01 as recommended by @kurtvd19

I love using this tool. I like the way it pulls a chip out of the groove it is cutting. 
 
Anyway. I haven't started on the actual deck piece yet, but here is my test piece:
after sanding with 80 grit and scribing the plank lines. 
 

after priming with airbrush. Then I brushed some Raw Umber acrylic into the scribe lines and wiped the piece with paper towels. 
 
 
after painting with airbrush. Much to my suprise, the plank lines were not obscured by the tan color. But I wanted more "texture". I had planned to wash the piece with more Raw Umber thinned way down. I was a bit afraid that the wash would mix with the paint layer and muddy the colors, so I got the idea of using a lacquer barrier layer between the paint and the wash.  
 
The section on the left just the airbrush tan over the primer and fill. The section on the right was airbrushed with Testor's Dull coat. Then the right and middle sections were washed with more Raw Umber thinned way down, then dry brushed. 
 
My technique could be better, but i'm reasonably happy with the section on the right. That is the process I plan to use on the spar deck. When I get that far I will post a picture of the finished project. 
 
Thanks again for the useful information and the interesting discussion. 

I finally got it mounted! Couple of screws in the plate and it's ready for display!
 

I just noticed how long it had been since I had updated the log.  The basement work got finished in a few weeks- my wife would be an excellent contractor and got the floor people in the day the asbestos people finished.  I got side tracked by finishing a Wingnut Wings Ninak that had been on the bench for months, then built the new Tamiya 1/48 Spitfire Mark I to try to fix some of my airbrush skill deficiencies.  I kept picking away at the Sharpie a few minutes at a time a few times a week, which eventually turned into some progress.  I finished the centerboard and centerboard housing and thwarts.
 
    
 
I installed the deck clamps and framing.  I decided to use swiss pear to have a little contrast to the boxwood.  Most of the framing and clamps will be invisible when the deck is installed.  I also completed the curved stern.
 

 

 

 
For anyone trying to build from the instructions, there are a couple areas to be careful of.  Dimensions of the wood in the text is different than the plans.  If you are building using stock wood, use the dimensions in the text.  If you are milling your own, use the dimensions in the plans, which are  more to scale.  The instructions say to fit the upper frame after the stern planks have been glued in place. They have two planking options, one of which uses a bent strip to guide the outer surface, the other which installed the planks without a form. Building this way worked for the authors, but looked  harder than it needed to be.  I installed the upper framing and planked over it.  It made planking really easy, and made sure that the stern followed the same shape as the plans.
 
 
 

Using information provided by John Fryant, I was able to create a set of plans for the 115' towboats from Hillman Barge Co., five sisters built between 1949 and 1959. More discussion of all that in the Plans area:
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/10027-diesel-towboats-from-hillman-barge-construction/
 
I'm attracted to these boats because of the unusually graceful styling. Several still operate today, and rivermen still acknowledge their attractiveness.
The design, I suspect, results from the pent-up yearnings of a 1940's designer, Elmer Easter, who still recalled the "streamline moderne" styling of the 1930's.
 
Now it's time to build a model! Which will be R/C in 1:32, making for a nice sized model that should operate stably. 
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The frames are designed with tabs reaching "up" (down?) to the build board datum surface. The board is marked out, and the frames are simply hot-glued in place.
The hull has a "model bow", as opposed to the simpler scow bow used on many towboats. Looks nice, but it's debatable if it's of any use behind a raft of deeply loaded barges.

 
 
Hull is sheeted in 1/16" basswood. The real boats weren't planked, and there's no reason to use planking on a model.

 
 
3d-printed nozzle set attached to the frames and sheeting blended in.

 
 
After a bit of filling and sanding, the hull is cut free, and the tabs are cleaned off the frames. Ready to deck and for installation of prop shaft tubes.

Yes, I found that approach very successful, too. I planed long shavings from the edge of a clear plank. I then took a dowel of the desired diameter to use as a mandrel, wrapped it in plastic wrap to prevent glue from sticking to it, applied PVA to one side of the shaving and wrapped it around the dowel a few times, fastening with a rubber band to dry. There was no need to wet the shavings, as they were already tightly curled as they came off the plane blade. I did this with several shavings next to each other on the dowel. When the glue was set, I mounted the mandrel on my lathe and then sanded the faces of the wrapped shavings until I achieved the thickness of the mast hoops I wanted, and then parted the mast hoops with a fine razor saw. I then removed all the finished mast hoops from the mandrel and hand-sanded them to round off the edges. (A "block sander" for rounding off block edges would probably do a good job rounding the edges, too.) The result were very realistic looking laminated mast hoops. They were also very strong. None broke in later handling, the "grain" running in a concentric circle, as it were.
 
Scale 3/4'=1':
 
 
 

Beaders/Jewelers use a piece called a "crimp" with special pliers to attach the crimp and lock the wires in place.  Small diameter tube - various finishes - put the end of the wire through the crimp, thread on the eyebolt, hook or turnbuckle and put the end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp the tube with the pliers and cut the excess wire off.
 
The photo shows a crimp at the top of the turnbuckle on the wire rigging line.  This is a 1:12 scale model with 7 strand SS wire about 0.015 diameter. 

Here are some photos of a PBR that is at a "military museum" on the IL/WI boarder.  Might be some details that help.  The last 2 photos show the Tamiya PBR front gun tub so you get an idea of the detail in the kit.
Kurt

It appears to be a much brighter green than I have seen used on thes boats.  Here are two, much weathered, that I know have not been repainted since coming back stateside.
Kurt

The article Chatter Grooves is 5 pages and was in Issue 19 on Pages 81-85 and was written by John Harland a recognized authority.  A bit more than should be considered fair use.  It is not yet available on the NRG store but I will extract it and make it available by contacting the office and telling Mary the name of the article.  The cost is $2.50 payable by card or PayPal.  She will have it by Monday morning.  It is a PDF and will be emailed.
The citation from Vol 16 - page 238 will also be included - it is a single paragraph question that appears to have been answered by Harland's article.
Kurt

Look at the Badger Airbrush paints.  The Modelflex Marine Color line has 52 colors.  Their RR Colors have a lot more.  They are the exact same formula regardless of Marine or RR.  These are all ready to use in the airbrush.
USS Airbrush Supply is a sponsor here on MSW and note there is a discount for NRG/MSW (hoover the pointer over the banner to see discount code).  Discount applies to all products.  You will not beat the regular price from USS ABS - before discounts.
Kurt

Look at the Badger Airbrush paints.  The Modelflex Marine Color line has 52 colors.  Their RR Colors have a lot more.  They are the exact same formula regardless of Marine or RR.  These are all ready to use in the airbrush.
USS Airbrush Supply is a sponsor here on MSW and note there is a discount for NRG/MSW (hoover the pointer over the banner to see discount code).  Discount applies to all products.  You will not beat the regular price from USS ABS - before discounts.
Kurt

Look at the Badger Airbrush paints.  The Modelflex Marine Color line has 52 colors.  Their RR Colors have a lot more.  They are the exact same formula regardless of Marine or RR.  These are all ready to use in the airbrush.
USS Airbrush Supply is a sponsor here on MSW and note there is a discount for NRG/MSW (hoover the pointer over the banner to see discount code).  Discount applies to all products.  You will not beat the regular price from USS ABS - before discounts.
Kurt

I think you will be disappointed as these are meant to compress wire rather than removing material.   The wire get longer as it is reduced in diameter.  Search for this topic as draw plates have been discussed.
Byrnes Model Machines makes a very good draw plate that works great for wood. 

I have had three draw plates and still have one from MicroMark which is OK for the most part.  One of the holes is actually larger than the preceding one so a miscue on their production floor, and I still have the Byrnes.  BYRNES IS THE WAY TO GO.  I have made many many thousands of treenail strips from bamboo and pear with this plate and it never disappoints.  One trick I learned some years ago (I think from Druxey) is to pull the piece through the same hole at least two or three times at slightly different angles before moving to the next smaller hole.  Takes an extra few seconds, but well worth it.
Allan

Beaders/Jewelers use a piece called a "crimp" with special pliers to attach the crimp and lock the wires in place.  Small diameter tube - various finishes - put the end of the wire through the crimp, thread on the eyebolt, hook or turnbuckle and put the end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp the tube with the pliers and cut the excess wire off.
 
The photo shows a crimp at the top of the turnbuckle on the wire rigging line.  This is a 1:12 scale model with 7 strand SS wire about 0.015 diameter. 

I think you will be disappointed as these are meant to compress wire rather than removing material.   The wire get longer as it is reduced in diameter.  Search for this topic as draw plates have been discussed.
Byrnes Model Machines makes a very good draw plate that works great for wood.