baskerbosse

Hi all, and welcome 

 

the cannon (probably the 3 or 1 pounder) 

 

IMG_0263.jpg

 

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I think the quality is quite good. There are also 3 handles(or whatever it's called) to attach. Instructions say it should be painted bronze. 

 

 

This looks like rather impressive gun casting. (My Corel kit came with some generic guns, not anything like the actual Vasa guns)

I don't think it would be a 1 pounder or 3 pounder though.

They would be a lot more slender.

Looks like a 'Stormstycke' that goes on the forecastle.

Also, red for the Vasa carriages is probably not historically correct.

The accounts book states black paint purchased specifically for the gun carriages.

Seems to be a great kit so far.

/Peter

Looking great, I'll be following if you don't mind (wait, -there's popcorn! :-) -any left? :-) )

DeAgostini kits seem to be getting more and more common.
They seem to be pretty good quality.

/Peter

Looks interesting.

By the look of the first parts anyway, looks like better accuracy than Corel.
The bow section is looking promising.

/Peter

Looking great!

Amazing as usual. -Just make sure you don't leave rigging the deadeyes until too late.

Can be quite tricky to run the lanyards for the mizzen deadeyes in my experience..

Keep on with the great work!

Cheers!

Peter

Epoxy and microballoons is an excellent filler and should not shrink much.
It's also lightweight.
Hobby shops that sell RC planes might have microballoons.

Back in the 80s when I used to build windsufingboards, you used to be able to by them in the surf shop in larger amounts, as well as epoxy resin.
Probably not likely these days, I don't know.
If you use microballoons, wear a mask. They are actually made of glass, and can fly around like dust. You do not want to breathe glass balloons..

/Peter

Hi Nenad,

Probably best to be careful with the glue type.
Is a large percentage of the filling glue? How much does it shrink when it dries?
As Patrick said above, perhaps resin would be better.

It doesn't shrink much and does not need evaporation to harden.
If the hull is to a large percentage filled with water based glue (the rest being wood, leaving no air), it will dry very slowly, and shrink as it does.

If air cannot come in to replace the lost volume, the hull might come under strong (imploding) stress!
Might deform the planking inwards, perhaps not straight away, but if the glue takes a very long time to dry, perhaps in a year or more.

Please be careful.

/Peter

Ornamentation looks really good!

I see you made a new figurehead.

That was the main part I was unhappy with when I first opened the box.
It's so bad that they didn't even use it on the model in their catalogue! :-)

/Peter

 

 

 

Peter Jenssen  Jeg skulle vel ikke kunne skrive til Dig på dansk ?

 

 

Absolut! :-)

Jag är Svensk med Norska förfäder, men förstår dansk!  ;-D

/Peter

That looks excellent!

/Peter

Hi Wim,

It's looking awesome!

My wife advises that it looks like you have the name plate on upside down (not that I would know).

You might want to double check..

Keep up the great work,

Peter

The lower small port is what is known as a 'mail port' or 'messaging port'.

/Peter

Hi Rob,

If you look at the hull and the main cabin at this point, there is a window here.

I suspect the 'door' was mere conjecture, and it makes more sense that it was only a cutout in the quarter galleries, made to let light in through the window into the main cabin.

/Peter

 

 

Thanks Peter for nice comment. I am carefully watching and learning from your rigging. Do you need some ants or have some to send to us ?

Thanks Nenad,

(I don't know what's up with the ants!?

They have not been doing any work for two weeks now!)

Looking excellent!

Very nice work on the tops!
I'm taking notes for when I get to that point (hopefully sometime in the next decade! ;-) )

/Peter

Thanks!

Now for the tacks;

Drilled a hole at the end of the block to attach a rope.

Ready to install, approximately where Campbell's plans have them.

Looking at pictures of the real ship, the tacks, sheets, clewlines and reef tackles are all rigged up together.

Most models omit the reef tackles, Billing's rigging plan does not have tack lines either.
(I may leave out the reef tackles as well, not sure yet)

Cheers!

/Peter

Have not had much time to work on this.

Current state:

Now adjusting lines to straighten up the yards.
Once it looks good enough, trim the lines and add coils of rope.
First area for finalising the belaying like this is the area around the mizzen and the main mast.


The cleaned up mizzen belaying rail.

Thanks,

In the early 80's, the parts were just printed on different sheets of wood and you had to cut them out yourself (I was using my dad's bandsaw which made my mum a bit nervous).

The deck was on one sheet of wood (1.5mm veneer I think), and if I remember correctly; the deck houses were marked, and the masts as well as the deck plank pattern was also printed, -but no markings for the fife rails..

Anyway, once I had cut out the deck and drilled the mast holes, I scribed the planking with a knife and sanded off the printing.
The deck was then finished with a coat of varnish, a dark wash followed by a second coat of varnish. Not very realistic, but looks nice enough..

The main reason the holes were still not drilled for the fife rails is probably the same as for the rest of the missing rigging around the fore mast.
I had just quick-rigged the foremast (not finishing it) and left the model at my parents house when I was going off to university. It then remained there until about ten years ago when the whole rigging was taken down for ease of transport.

 

Fore mast fife rails were never installed:

 

First holes:

Fits alright! :-) :

Next! (careful.. not much elbow room here..:

All done:

And the braces boom too:

Some of the little bits that were missing: (for whatever reason never made initially)

Making attachment point for the fore braces and fore fife rails.

Painted..

I think when it comes to the gammoning, usually they are indeed rope, however, I believe Campbell has this one right and for the Cutty Sark, the gammoning is actually chain.

Thanks,

Peter

Looks great!
You mentioned you are adjusting deck camber when installing them,  -just don't forget the roof camber! :-)

Are you doing both deck houses at the same time?
(Looking at mine, it's pretty obvious that they were made at different times as the work finish and the colour hues don't quite match! :-( )

/Peter

Really nice detail work. 

That's a really tiny door.
Deck houses are coming along very nicely!

/Peter

Working on some details:

Thanks Nenad,

There are several simplifications though.
I have skipped a couple of brace pendant blocks, omitted the upper topsail sheets and most of the running rigging to do with sails.

I may install reef tackles for the lower yards, but have not decided yet.

Cheers!

/Peter