Chuck

I finished the second keel assembly today. You can see the differences. You will note that before gluing the transom into position I added the bolts for the lap joints on the keel. There are once again several way to do this depending on your tastes. The bolts would have been copper but I dont like the look of shiny copper on a model. So I am using 20lb black fishing line. It works very well. You could substitute 22 gauge copper wire if you wish. The bolts are only simulated in that they dont go all the way through. You can of course do that as well. But rather than risk the drill bit wandering, I decided to just drill shallow holes that were filled with the black mono-filament. Then I used a straight razon to shave the excess away flush with the surface. I sanded it with 320 grit sandpaper. Then applied some wipe on poly. Feel free to ask any questions. Next I will glue the keel onto the frames and start fairing the frames for planking.

I also find that companies who make parts for robotics are a great source. Not commercial robotics. I am referring to the hobby stuff. There are quite a few companies that make parts of all kinds for educational purposes and developing robotics for the hobby. www.vexrobotics.com and my favorite servocity.com for example...and not just for the gears, they have lots of cool stuff.

Its the same but there isnt any finish on it yet. Its all cedar which will appear different once a finish is applied. The model is all cedar so far. It could also just be my bad camera work!!! Chuck

I think she will be a pretty longboat. If you recall, there will be two options for assembly of the three keel parts. The simpler version has the parts simply butt together and that is fine. But for those who want to try a bit more ambitious joint, there will be some laser cut parts prepared with the beginnings of some lap joints. I Have not removed any laser char from these pieces before "carving" and completing the lap joints. In the photo below you can two of each part. One shows the lap joint as prepared by the laser cutter. The laser can not etch deep enough to complete the lap joint. But you have the area laid out with precision so you only need to make it deeper. You can remove the material until it is half the thickness on each side of the lap joint. There are multiple ways you can do this depending on your skill level and what tools you have. You could use a sherline mill for example. In my case however, I opted for the cheap yet effective sharp #11 blade. I slowly sliced off little shavings until it was close to the correct depth. Then I used a sanding stick to clean it up. Periodically, I stopped shaving and slicing to check how the lap joints fit together. The two photos below show the two lap joints test fit together. Just a little more to do and clean up and I have it. One thing I would caution you on is not to rush it. Dont get "close enough" and then think you can sand the outsides flush after you glue them together. This would be very bad. You would see the weird twisted shape that would develop and the other slotted keel parts wouldnt fit onto it properly and that error of impatience would snowball as your project moves forward. Keep in mind that these are extreme close-ups.....you can really see the wood grain. But once the finish is applied....that will disappear. I will take photos again once the remaining pieces are added and the bolts are added. ut after the glue dries on these three parts, I will sand the laser char from the edges and clean it up. and once again, here is a comparison of the two options for assembling the three keel sections. The slotted parts will be added as soon as I clean it all up. You might also notice my change to the stern post so the model will use the more historically accurate method to attach the rudder. The older photo is below and those changes arent shown.

Great looking stuff. I feel compelled to also mention that my very simple ropewalk and serving machine are very very easy to make on your own. I have no issue what-so-ever with anyone using my design or anything even close to it for non-commercial purposes. If you are making one for yourself that is perfectly fine by me. These machines in concept are very very simple. Most will be similar because the concept behind making rope or serving rope is so simple. I am just happy to see more folks trying their hand at making their own rope....and even going through the trouble of adding the detail of rope serving to their models. That is very well done.....I wish you many years of good use from them.

A bit of a milestone. All of the frames are completed and assembled. I have not applied any wipe on poly yet, but will do so before gluing the keel into position. I am holding off because I want to build the second version of the keel assembly with the actual lap joints. That is the one I will actually use. So I should have an update soon with those details. But for now...I have tested all of the frames and all fits well. The photo below shows the simpler keel assembly dry fit. Hopefully you can get a sense of the hull shape now and the graceful sheer. Because this is an early longboat it has a much more pleasing shape than the other Long boat model I made. I have gently flipped it "right-side-up" in the build board so you can hopefully see the sheer and shape better. Once I complete the other keel and glue it to the frames....fairing and planking can begin. Its coming together quickly. In fact, other than the plans, this will constitute the starter package as seen in the photos. Everything you need to get this far. If you have any questions let me know.

Very nice!!! I want to see this model completed and sitting next to an expertly weathered WWII Era Armored Tank. Just for giggles...yu should place one of your other models next to it for comparison. Chuck

I am not sure yet if I will. But yes at this scale it is certainly a possibility. On a fully planked hull they would be very hard to see however. So I may hold off and just give it a try on the partially planked version. One thing I forgot to mention in my previous post which is very important, is not to forget to sand off the laser char on the two piece frames. But not the whole thing.... Just remove the char from the tips of the floors and the top timbers as shown below. This will be difficult to do later. Doing it before you assemble the frames is best. Just be careful not to break away the frame center from the top timbers. The remaining char is best removed when fairing the hull as it can be used to help you see certain areas that need more fairing before planking.

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride. I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way. Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together. Anyway, progress continues. One piece frames are pretty straight forward. For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers. The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below. Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting. You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line. Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess. That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting. These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames. This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below. Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only. Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center. Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later. But dont skimp on the glue either. Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece. Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers. Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference. Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!! I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull. I will make a recommendation. Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing. Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another. Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board. I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose. More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit" This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own. You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove. We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed. So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight. I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider. This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds. If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem. Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good. You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far. In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel. I do this as soon as I finish each frame. Here is what the model looks like today. Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days. Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives. But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts. I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge. It describes the process as well. Just in case you cant wait. Here is a link... https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php .

I just gave you access so you should be good to go!!! Enjoy.

It is indeed. We are setting these groups up here specifically for just that reason....because many of you dont live close to a physical group of people in order to have one locally.

Some close up images of rigging details from the replica under sail......

I think I might have mentioned this somewhere but I will repeat here. There will be a starter package containing keel parts, frame parts and build board along with the plans. You scratch everything else. Estimate $100 Then there will be a full kit version no rigging materials...just the hull. Estimate $180ish but this could be way off because I m not close to knowing yet Lastly...a separate rigging/sail package with everything to add masts/sails to your model. Containing mast material, rope, blocks, whatever else including sail material. Estimate $45ish Thats it. Otherwise it gets to crazy. This should make it economically feasible for most folks who may only want the starter package and scratch everything else. Otherwise they can buy one of the other options. But I cant itemize it out into smaller packages because that would be insane to keep track of. Starter packages will only be available for those taking part in the MSW group project and bought through this site. Once I add it to my store....there will only be the full hull kit and rigging packages available.

Thanks The Queen Anne Barge kit uses pre spiled planks as well. Its not a big deal to make them. I basically spile and create the shape for the plank like I normally do on a scratch project. Once I am satisfied that my plank fits on my prototype I trace it and make a laser cut version. This laser cut version is then tested on the model. I will tweak it as needed and when I get it perfect, I glue it into position and move on to the next one. It takes a while but the results are very good.

Its not a physical group....to clarify....if you dont join this online group (similar to TRiton Group) then you must wait to buy them. But if you join the online group....LIke TRiton, which is just a group of build logs of the longboat all in the same area. The group we are referring to is just the online group put together here on MSW. Not a physical group in your geographical location.

I am shooting for September guys....

I have been speaking to Peter Rindlisbacher who is an artist and model maker. He is the builder and owner of the longboat replica in the photos I posted. He has already given me some great insight about the rig. He actually sails this thing and is very knowledgeable. I believe he is also going to be the dinner speaker this year at the conference. I have invited him to join our little group project as well. Here are some additional photos of his longboat replica.

Very nicely done.....almost time to start putting some skin on those bones!!!

Joe I will make probably six kits at a time because that is all I can really make with my capacity. I wont place them in my storefront until after everyone who has signed up for the group has one. My guess is around 15 or 20 people. But remember....no line cutting. If you sign up for the group you must start a build log. No short-cutting to get an early kit. As soon as most have a kit I will place it in my store for anyone to buy and enjoy. Unfortunately a 1/4" scale version is not going to happen. Just the 1/2" scale version.

It depends on the sheet actually.....but a few weeks. It doesnt ever entirely go away. It will stay yellowish as opposed to tan. The finish you use is important. Sanding sealer keeps it the lightest and less intense. Then wipe-on-poly makes it a bit deeper. Oil based finishes really bring out the deepest color. I have not tried any waxes however.

I have been talking with the other guys and they want to keep it at this scale also....So I will. Since the Barge is 1/2" scale it just makes more sense. My new wood guy said it wont be a problem to cut and thickness the cedar on wider sheets either which I was worried about. I need cedar sheets that are 5 1/2" wide to fit these these frames on. So I am good to go.

By the way....this is a big boat....16" longish. Is it too big? Should it be 3/8" scale instead. I cant do both. But this is the time to decide. If I get any further it will be too late and require too much redrafting. Maybe not....I will see what the fellas say when they see it in person Tuesday night at my club meeting. And getting back to the discussion about me having way too much on my plate to do this project. Let me fill you in on the timeline so far. My club met last month in my shop and we discussed a group project. It was decided that the long boat was the best subject. I was super busy working on making parts to restock. But a week ago I started drafting this from the new contemporary draft I had on file. Over the last week I spent only about 12 -15 hours drafting this model electronically and laser cutting the parts. I also built several prototype attempts as I tweaked those designs and also arrived finally at the image you see in my last post. Actually I am a little further along actually. But all included the project has only taken me about 12-15 hours thus far with most of that time being at my computer drafting. Maybe I have about 2-3 hours of actual build time. Thats it. This will be a very quick build....hopefully, if nothing comes up to ruin it.

I thought you would like Kurt.....remember to add it on your barge frames.

I hope this level of detail in the log will be good enough for the group build....please dont hesitate to ask any questions. Yes, I will also write something which will be available in PDF but it will pretty much just be this.....and whatever additions might come up during our conversations.

Continuing along.... For those familiar with this design concept from my Queen Anne Barge kit, you will recognize the two-piece build board. I have however, tried to make some improvements with each new project based on watching others build them. In this case, I have added some slots for bracing blocks. Two for the transom and two for the bow/stem to stabilize them while planking. These pieces can be seen below. But do NOT glue them into the slots. These will need to be removed at some point in the build. It will be easier to remove the boat after planking without these in position. They are a press fit. If they are too snug....sand them a bit thinner because remember you will be removing them after a few planking strakes are completed. So make sure they are loose enough for that. There are two types of frames on contemporary models like this and the barge. One piece frames and two piece frames. Th etwo piece frames have floors and top timbers. We will be doing the one piece frames first and there are 5 of them. Another tip I was given by an individual can be seen below. You can see thin strips of packaging tape along the inner cut line. I used heavy and sticky packaging tape. You can fold over the end to make a tab and place the tape so it spans across the seam. This will give it added (temporary) strength while fairing and planking. The tape is put on both sides. The tabs will make it easier to remove the tape before breaking the inside of each frame free when it comes time to do so. Then once this is finished you must test the frames in their slots on the build board. They will be very snug by design initially. You dont want these loose and falling out of the build board. But you dont want them too tight either. You want to be able to easily remove them at any time. The best way to achieve the best fit is to sand the two tabs that fit into each slot just a little at a time until they are the perfect thickness. You will know when they are good because they will be firmly seated and yet be somewhat easy to remove. Be careful not to break the small tabs that hold the frame centers in the frames. No need to clean any laser char. In addition, test the fit of the bottom of the frame so it fits the same in its notch on the keel. Not too tight and not too loose. The three single piece frames at the stern are shown below being test fit. and the two at the bow should be as well. Dont glue these into the build board. That would be a huge mistake. With this completed, lets test the keel assembly on the build board atop the frames. Carefully place the keel assembly into the stern half of the build board first. This is a bit tricky if you havent done it before but once you do it a couple of times you figure out the little nuances. Slip the stern post between the two braces first as you carefully guide the keel onto each frame. Dont push to hard in each notch of the keel. You have have tested and filed those so they slide into each notch easily but dont fall out because they are too loose. NOTE the two small additional braces waiting to be installed next. The two transom blocks in the slots can be moved forward or aft so you can get a good fit against the transom. Remember that they are not glued in. The slots for them are longer than needed so they can be adjusted to best advantage. But once in a good position, you can add the two smaller brace blocks. These can and should be glued onto the build board. Use a little glue and push them into position against the transom. But DONT glue them to the transom. Just glue them to the build board. These will stabilize the transom even more while planking. Also use the laser etched lines on the build board to help make sure the transom is straight and not askew. This method differs from the one I used on the barge kit but I think its an improvement. Time will tell. Then repeat the test fitting of the keel in the bow half of the build board. Do it the same way except there are no additional stabilizing blocks. These two will do the job and keep the stem from wandering while you add the first few strakes up there. How it all looks at this stage. You will be removing and testing the keel many times before its time to glue the keel in position for good. Now to do the two piece frames. I also want to point out to those interested....look at the laser char edges of the frames. You will see how they are not dark and black. Yellow Cedar is very forgiving thanks to the oil present. It doesnt effect the gluing either and I am using Titebond II for all my joints. The build board is just basswood and you can see how dark that gets when laser cutting. I find it very enjoyable to work in Cedar and removing the char is much easier in my opinion....as Cherry and Basswood burn like crazy.