Chuck

Very nice progress…Its interesting to see a copper plated Winnie.

Yes indeed....so still lots of choices to be made. The Cheerful hull is 18" long at 1/4" scale. So those who are familiar with it.....it will be only a couple of inches longer. But the Cheerful is also much wider at mid ship. Speedwell is a long narrow hull which is quite beautiful.

Yes I hear you....its tough for me as well. I have a lot of planning to do on it. Its just in the very very early stages. I havent even really decided on the scale yet to be honest. At 1/4" scale the Speedwell hull is about 20" long. Quite tiny by comparison to Winnie. I have even been considering enlarging it more to 3/8 scale...thats how early the planning stages are. When the time comes I will start another topic for it to get everyone thoughts. At 3/8" scale it would be just over 30" long and at 1/2" scale a bit over 41"..... After building large for the Winnie I am very aware that it may be the first POF for many, and larger would be easier. But how large....OR is it important to keep it at the traditional 1/4" scale although it may make building it a bit more difficult for some. Space considerations aside. Honestly I havent even measured it fully rigged yet. Maybe Greg can tell us what those measurements are. In the end I will probably be 1/4" scale. But my brain does seem to go where it wants to with this stuff. This is indeed the first attempt at the buildboard for Speedwell. I have some tweaks to it but it will be an upright build. Without all of that retched scaffolding you typically see on some POF kits. We will build it in a more traditional way using laser cut parts and learning the tried and true step by step methods. I believe its the easier way to go actually....than building those crazy boxes. We shall see...time will tell. If you start off POF building with all of those crutches and jigs and scaffolding, it will be that much harder to just pick up a set of plans which is not a kit and build it POF. You will become too reliant and conditioned to look for the "ugly-box". So learning the ropes so-to-speak is something this project will be all about. But its very much on my mind too. I also posted a picture below...from Greg of the Speedwell hawse timbers vs the Pegasus hawse timebrs. Keep in mind that the Pegasus is much smaller than the Winnie as well and would dwarf the Pegasus hawse timbers. So that should give you an idea of how large the Speedwell will be at 1/4" scale. At the dead flat mid ship the hull is 4.75" wide. Compared to the Winnie at almost 8". Chuck

Scroll up….see the other tabs above. Click on the tab for “general project discussion….etc” Thats where they are in the topic with the monograph chapter downloads. Speedwell is a long way off. You will know when it gets close because I will start a build log of the prototype. Until you see that…I wouldnt even think about. Stay focused on the Winnie which is what I am trying to do.

Binnacle friezes....and plan. binnacle.pdf

Nice progress Ben.

Nicely done. You are making some beautiful progress.

Binnacle test on the model. This was fun to build. I have plenty of construction photos which I will soon upload as well. A big Thank You to David Antscherl who was kind enough to paint the friezes for the binnacle. More to follow soon. But breaking for dinner now.

Back to the Winnie...prep for Binnacle

This is the Speedwell. The model on the bottom is Greg Herbert's model. There is a lot of info available mainly because David Antscherl and Greg have already documented it in their two book series. In addition there are plenty of original drafts and the Contemporary model. Making a kit with laser cut pieces and CNC carvings is a logical next step in my opinion. I cant think of a better suited "learning" subject for a POF model. Mainly because of its size and decorative appearance. Plus the not to burdensome number of guns and two masted rig. I figured why not do this one before it gets pirated so a legit version could be made available of it. See here for Greg's beautiful scratch -built version. and here I am hoping because of the support and available resources that there will be a great deal of interest in such a project. Especially if many have the books but not the tools or experience or confidence to build it entirely from scratch. Not to gunk up this build log too much but please feel free let me know if this is a subject that could be of interest.

Currently under consideration....fully rigged. Planked above the wales with frames exposed below.

Yes absolutely 1/4” Scale.

Thats good news. But alas the Winnie must be completed first. But we are getting really close. it wont be a huge two or 3 decker. It will be a smaller model fully rigged. It will be a great first time exercise in framing. Nothing to terribly difficult. I am hoping Jack will be able to do all carvings as well. Chuck

No rigging on the wheel for me. But you can do that if you like. I would guess a .025 or .030 rope size. No blocks needed because the rope goes through the gun deck. i did bot prime the brass tube. I did however run some steel wool over it. But you guys could also use styrene tube or even turn the drum from wood. A 1/4 dowel would work as well. Lots of options there for you guys. And yes I am getting excited about a pof kit. I hope there is some interest out there. I would hate to start making one and have no interest from the builders at large. Unless of course only having the option to buy pof kits from china is ok with most of you. Please share your level of interest!!!!

I would think about omitting the pieces of the qgallery frame that sit against the transom and the hull. Why would you need it? Just use the front outside curved timber. Once the planking is added to the counter it should make it very strong. It certainly makes cutting it out easier and gives you more room inside gallery. Just a thought. Similar to this.

Materials List for Chapter 8 and 9. I am cutting chapter 9 parts as I write this!! Before anyone asks. Materials List for Winnie Eight.pdf Materials List for Winnie Nine.pdf

The 1 1/4" ship's wheel already exists as a mini kit as I mentioned. So I wont bother going through those instructions again. They are on my website as a download. But the other parts of the wheels assembly will be in the chapter parts. You can see the wheel and the other parts below. Note How the discs for the drum have two layers. You can glue the smaller disc to the larger ones as shown. The other parts had their char removed. The forward wheel support is longer than the aft support. This is done because of the camber of the deck forward to aft. So after cleaning the char dont glue the feet onto them yet. Those are the flat pieces or strips shown in the photo above. Once you test assemble all the parts on the 1/16" brass bar, you should position it on deck to see how it fits. Adjust the bottom of the two supports (probably the forward longer support) so the wheel is nice and vertical. You dont want it to lean forward because of the slope of the deck. Once you get those adjusted you can glue the feet into position. To complete the drum...take the 1/4" brass tube and it will fit onto the two layer disc. Then add the other side to finish it up. Paint it red. I also painted the supports red and the rim of the wheel. You can see in the photo below that the feet have been glued onto the bottom of the supports before painting them. Treat every fitting like it is a model all its own Treat every fitting as if it is the only project you have to work on….just smaller. As if it will be displayed on its own. Dont rush these. Cut the brass rod to length and glue the elements in position. Remember to face those supports in the right direction. The longer one on the forward end. Then you can glue it on the model. And the obligatory overall shot of the progress below. Next up will be the binnacle... Any questions? Or comments.

Well er about that.....The prospect another huge undertaking is a worry of mine. BUT, I may be taking the plunge into a Fully-Framed design for my next subject, whatever it will be. I think there needs to be some more choices for model builders rather than just those POF kits from the east that are emerging. If anybody wants to build a POF kit they are forced to only buy the stuff that comes out of China. So I may be the first to develop a full kit done in a style that is different from those being made in China at the moment. I think I can do better. We shall see how it goes over the next few months. I can tell you that tests are already underway. But its still 50-50 which way I will end up going. Not just a cross section either...but a full hull. You have seen my other tests into this type of POF development by now. There are more on the drawing table at the moment. I think I should do this only because I am not getting any younger, LOL. So I may as well get this out of my system before I get too old to consider it.

More paint color choices on the wheel as well. Here are some photos. For the contemp. model as you can see, the supports, drum and rim of the wheel are red. The spokes are ivory. I may be doing the same except leaving the spokes natural boxwood. and some winnie parts for the wheel being tested and contemplating color choices as well. This just taken with my Phone. For other cont. models its similar but there is some variation. Minerva...which has a double wheel. Winnie does not have a double wheel. But you can see how the supports are black in this case. And Amazon...all read with ivory spokes again. Again a double wheel. The ships wheel for the Winnie is sold separately and is already available. Sold one per package. For those guys waiting for the next chapter this is something that could be bought and made in advance. Its just the wheel as the other parts will be part of chapter 10. Buy the larger 1 1/4” wheel for Winnie. The wheel kit is built just like other master model builders build them. There are lots of small parts but it makes a beautiful boxwood wheel as you can see. You just need to go really slow and take your time. If you rush through the wheel mini kit …it will look a mess. So take your time and practice.

Thank You.... Just a reference for next fitting.

That is looking really good. Nice planking job. That will be a fabulous model.

Chapter 9 isnt out yet. I am working on it....The stove is chapter 8 and is already out. That has been out for a while. Chuck

Thank You for posting. Today chapter ten was started. You saw that I had already planked the qdeck along the bulwarks after adding the margin planks. So before I could plank down the center I had to get the coamings all made. The coamings are build exactly like the others we built. They are laser cut for you. Just build them using the 3/64" thick right angle template as before. Round off the corners......yada....yada....and add the cambered gratings. Two packages were enough to do these three. But dont glue all three down yet. Only glue the forward most grating and coaming in first. This is very important. As you can see above, the first coaming was positioned and then it could be used to help position the capstan partners. These are also laser cut for you. But because so much depends on where you placed you beams.....where you placed your lower capstan, etc.... I laser cut the three parts for the capstan partners a bit longer on both ends (forward and aft). This will allow you to adjust to suit you model and get the round opening directly centered over the lower capstan. Then trim the aft side so it falls on the deck beam nicely. The aft end of the partners should cover half the beam it sits on. Then the other coamings can be glued in position. Make sure to center them down the qdeck of course. In that same photo above you can also see the mizzen bitts. These must be glued to the forward side of the beam before you start planking. So these were made up next. They are laser cut but you must finish the top timberhead shape as is usually the case. There is a hole laser cut through these as well. They will accept a 1/16 dia. rod. Use either brass, or even styrene or wood. It doesnt matter. You will have to clean out the holes with a 1/16" drill bit first as the laser doesnt cut a perfect right angle. So I made this hole slightly smaller as a pilot hole. Drill them again with a 1/16" bitt and insert the rod. Use the plans to get their length. Above you can see the bitts pretty good. But you can also see a modeler's convention for adding the slots for the ships wheel rigging. This is laser cut in two layers 3/64" thick. The lower layer is glued between the deck beams first. It has a laser etched reference for the second final layer. Just glue it on top like in the photo. We will plank around this. Finally the planking can commence down the center of the qdeck. Use your template as a guide like when you planked the fcastle. This will complete the planking or most of it. We still have the gangways to do but that will be done much later. You can see I also test fit the upper capstan. I still have to paint it red and add the metal band. But its all coming together. That will be done next along with the pawls....and also the mizzen mast coat. With each update she is getting less naked. Its is starting to fill out nicely with details. Any questions. On the workbench…

Looks very good to me. Slow and steady.

Beautiful work Mike!!