Chuck

Nicely done Tom

Looking really good

Very nice.

That looks very good. Nice right joints. Remember to protect it from dirt and keep your hands clean. This cedar can get dirty fast unless you really try hard to keep it clean and crisp.

Looks great. The taper is gradual so line 2 is better. Avery gradual taper. Not an obvious one that goes quickly from thin to 1/4” thick if that makes sense.

I have sanded and poly’d and sanded and poly’d many times over. It will be fine. But to protect the stem at this point. You might consider covering it with protective painters tape. Something low tack to stop it from getting dirty and dented and scratched.

Really nice.....😀

Its the part of the two cheeks that are on the stem. They have the scrolls on the forward end.

Its somewhat important as it will establish your plank run and port position. Just draw a straight line to the other side along the BH edge. And use that for placement.

Unfortunately I would need to have a model hull without any headrails made yet .....and built really well to test any parts. It would impossible for me to create headrail mini-kits for any other project other than those I am working on at the moment.....and it takes weeks and weeks to get it right. The uprights for any headrails take forever to get right. I wont even be starting those yet for the Winnie. Chuck

Thanks Greg, I cant tell you how many test versions of those were needed. 20 failed ideas for every successful idea. But each failed attempt leads to some fresh new concepts to try. The hair brackets and scrolls are each made in four parts and the cheeks in three parts. Its just a matter of removing the char and shaping them as instructed for assembly. The builder wont have to carve any beaded details or create any profile scrapers to make them. Same is true for the headrails which I will show next. Although I did find it easier to scrape away the char on these with a sharp edge of my scalpel or #11 blade. When I do the other side I will document each and every step in the process. At which time I imagine other MFGs will try and replicate this. Most headrails and cheeks are pretty sub standard on kits which I am desperately trying to rectify. Even the newest companies cant seem to figure it out. No "glue-on-photo etched-kit-like" details for me. They look too fake. Unless of course folks are satisfied with a furniture grade ship model. I dont think folks are though. So its worth spending hours and hours trying to make them better. Chuck

Thanks guys. Before I do the cheeks on the other side I will build another main headrail. I have built about a dozen so far and this next one should be the winner. Chuck

Chapter five.....fun!!! This chapter begins with the cheeks/hair brackets at the bow so we can eventually drill those hawse holes. We need to do that before we can continue working inboard. Then we will shape the hole in the lower counter for the rudder installation. So I began by trying to prototype some cheeks and even the headrails. We wont need the head rails until much later but I might as well get the production and mfg methods developed. I have done so and now I will assemble the one side of the cheeks. Pictures are below. When I add them to the starboard side I will take more step by step photos. I just wanted to do the first go around entirely on the port side first. It all went pretty smooth. These pieces for the cheeks and hair brackets are composed of many separate laser cut elements. I havent added the wash cant yet or drilled the hawse holes. Many of these pieces are not even glued on yet. Its basically a test run. But here you can see the fruits of my labor. Many iterations of cheeks and head rails have been made over the last two weeks. All of these laser cut pieces have been made from boxwood. And of course more printed friezes for these thin details. I believe it will set this project apart from other very simplified kits on the market. Most look overly simplified and kit-like. I am satisfied that these do not look like a kit even though all of the pieces are laser cut. Oh and of course I had to paint the stem areas black as shown, although you could go with blue between the hair brackets.....behind the carving.

Its fine as is. But yes slow down and read it a few times before picking up the glue. That will work out just fine. Chuck

That is looking great Rich. Cant wait to see it in person. You are almost done!!! 😀

Really nice. Planking looks great.

Really nice. Once sanded it will really look terrific.

Its an exact replica......beautiful to see side by side. And straight out of the box....no bashing needed.

Nicely done Ryland.

Nicely done Rusty. It will be so nice to finally cover up those bulkheads.

That is looking really good Ron. All ply is different. The thicknesses vary quite a bit. Those slot widths were made for the ply that I am using. Thats why they may be just a hair off. But either way it looking really good. Chuck

Thats looking real good. A fine job. You are almost to the fun bits!!!!

It looks good. Its hard to say with your planking. The planking wont align with the top of the ports and thats ok. Check the run of where your molding will be to check that you plank runs are ok. Better yet copy the plan and place it against the hull to check your planking run and port placement.

I use a small toaster oven. Mostly because every time I want to cook some rope, somebody is using the oven. No smell unless you burn/melt it. What a running oozing mess. So dont over do it. Chuck

No resin this time around. So far so good. I am just laser cutting them out of boxwood. Should have some pics shortly. Chuck