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Chuck
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Everything posted by Chuck
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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by JpR62 - 1:48 scale
Chuck replied to JpR62's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
You could also use the actual interior for Cheerful.....rather than use one from the much older Alert.
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Just glue it together. Dont remove any char because that will shorten the keel and affect the joint fitting. Any space created can be filled with yellow glue to strengthen the joint.
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Real nice
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Looking good Jeff!!!
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Why do some manufacturers make single plank kits?
Chuck replied to Meriadoc Brandybuck's topic in Wood ship model kits
For me personally.....its a matter of why plank it twice if you could do it properly with the first layer. As a MFG and designer it has nothing to do with cost. At least for me. It has more to do with the usual audience of folks who buy my kits. Single planked kits are targeted to more experienced builders who know how to plank. Once you learn how to properly plank a hull, why in the world would any builder want to be forced by the design of a kit to plank it a second time. So I would say that neither single or double planked POB kits are better than the other. I would instead say that they are directed toward different groups within the hobby. One is for those more experienced with planking. BUT... depending on the design....any single planked kit can be planked a second time if that is what the builder wants to do. I would however state that they should think about the thickness of those planks or even possibly sanding more off the bulkheads to compensate for the additional layer. But again...if you are comfortable with your planking as a more skilled builder there is no reason to do it. Any POF kit of course would never be double planked and the same is true for smaller open boats like the Medway Longboat which just wouldnt work. Chuck- 24 replies
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You would need a bandsaw to rip those pieces into sheets. Then thickness sander to make those sheets accurate......the Byrnes saw could then be used to mill strips from your finished sheets for sale. In addition you would absolutely need good dust control and possibly a jointer to help make life easier for you. I cant see those wood pieces to tell what they are. They dont look like the more sought after types that ship builders want. They look like the more common Cherry, Poplar and or maple which can already be bought in sheet form pretty regularly. Chuck
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I would give it a try....its probably basswood and not balsa.
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I think you need to slow down just a bit .......I see a few things that may give you issues. Your planked upper counter will certainly give you fits later.
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Very nice start. And a very interesting approach.
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Nice job on that framing.....nicely done Vlad
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Beautiful model of the Cheerful Bill, Well done. Cant wait to see that next model come to life. Chuck
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I actually developed a mini-kit for the winch. But then I made a conscious decision to not offer them. I wanted to leave at least one item that wasnt overly difficult to make as a scratch-only item. I wanted to encourage everyone building this model to at least try and build one fitting on their own......I am so glad I did that. Well Done. If you can make the winch you certainly could have made every other fitting which is the message I was trying to encourage. Well Done. Chuck
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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by JpR62 - 1:48 scale
Chuck replied to JpR62's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Beautiful start...looking forward to your procgress. -
They were before....from 1779 - 1780....everything happened around the same time though which also makes it very hard. One log book was from 1782. I cant remember from which came what info however. This was researched so long ago. About 5 or six years ago. So I am just trusting my findings from that time. I actually hired a researcher who dug deep into the archives over in England. He sent me his findings as he went because he couldnt take any documents from the buildings etc. I do have some photos taken on his phone though if I can find them. You can hire folks to do the research for you which is great. I forget the guys name...he did work for many people. He was like 100 back then though so I am not sure he is even alive today. I think his last name was Salt if I remember correctly. Its very expensive to to a deep dive into the research this way. Which is why it angers me so much when folks takes such a care-free approach to piracy. I spent big money on researching Winnie when I started. Including having the original building contract photo-copied and sent to me. Chuck
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I read through the ships logs to find that info...so I think it may be reliable. What is interesting is that there were numerous notations of poor pump performance and they had them moved in the Americas. In addition.....the stove was moved also. As far as Carronades...I had seen someting about two 18 pounder Carronades on the f'castle but could not confirm this. My mistake earlier yes you are correct that there were 12 swivels. That is in my notes. Rather than muddy the waters I am going with what they had when the did some work on her in the north atlantic. Chuck
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Its hard to say for sure but We are building her to a later appearance. After much research and even reading the logbooks for winnie, our plans reflect her appearance during the American Revolution. Such things found in the logs indicate the moving of pumps up to the gundeck as well as the stove. There are other minor changes as well. The winnie was certainly copper plated but this is a personal preference thing. This was in fact the first class of frigate ever copper plated. Based on log info 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders were used at this time. Also 10 swivel guns. Beyond that there are many inconsistencies in the source documentation but my plan shows her either during the revolution or shortly after. Chuck
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Have you ever considered trying rowmark black acrylic......the solid black comes in .020 thickness. Its what I used to make my hooks from. https://www.jpplus.com/rowmark-fibergrave-black-engraving-plastic Its a flexible plastic but not too flexible. Great for small parts that wont require tensile strength. Anchors in particular. But this is the thinnest available. Its expensive but what isnt these days. Chuck
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Low low power and low speed is my mantra. Every laser is different but I use just 8 power and maybe 18-20 speed for the Ivory stuff. I use a 65 watt laser. Very little to no laser burning at all. For example these monograms are super tiny and I use the black thin laserboard. No charring and a very thin kerf. Can hardly see the cut line. Otherwise these small items would not be possible. I know some guys that wont vector cut laserboard and they will raster cut or engrave through the board entirely. I prefer to do the line cuts however. Chuck
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Yes...that is the ivory polybak. Each color is a diff thickness. I believe that is .016. there are different brands but this is the only one that wont kill you if you laser cut it. The other stuff is made with harsh chemicals and literally poison. I use three colors or 3 thicknesses. Black is very hard to come by and very thin.
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I am not sure why you bought these as you wont really need them. You can download the materials list for each chapter to find out what size wood sheets you need to buy. I will replace these with the proper sizes of wood you will most likely need but you will need a lot more than just these 8 sheets. See here for the materials lists. Your order will probably ship out in two boxes as they wont fit in just one. Chuck
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I use a hair dryer.
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That is looking fine. Your son did an excellent job.
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Thanks guys.....Trying to find some time today to do those cheeks.... But today is the first day after opening the store. Its been getting nutty. But maybe later tonight if I am not too tired. I forgot how crazy these reopening's get.
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