Chuck

No solder-easy-brass working gun port hinges..... So I like to get the port lids done early before I put the cannons in. The main reason is that I build the lids within their respective openings. This would be impossible after the cannon are in place. This is something you guys can do at anytime and you dont have to wait for chapter 5. You guys probably have all the materials to get these lids done. So first the lids... I think someone may have asked this question a while ago. But you know how you see a port lid on a contemporary model and it isnt just a flat square but actually is conformed to the shape of the hull. A port lid can be curved which is something you rarely see on a kit model. Fortunately for us the lids arent that extremely shaped. But the one at the bow will need to have each layer or strake of the lid pre-bent just like the hull planking. To explain....you must keep the run of the hull planking in each port lid. Thus it is best to use 1/4" x 3/64" strips to build the lid up. In the photo below you can see how I cut the first two strakes and trimmed them so they fit tight in the port opening. Then I glue them together edgewise right in the port opening. I do simulate the seam between each segment with a pencil just like we did when planking. The last piece for this lid is sitting on top of the sheer rail. With the lid glued up I remove it and sand the outside and inside surface smooth. Dont do this while its in position because you will screw up the finish on the hull planking. It will be hard to get the finish to match in the area you recently sanded. Then there is the matter of the second inboard layer or the lid lining. This is done with strips too....or you could just cut one piece that fits. In the case of the lining it is 1/32" thick. Its cut to shape so a rabbet is left on the bottom and the sides. To finish it up paint the inboard side red along with the edges of the port lid. Then put it back in position on the model....make sure it still fits nice. Apply a finish of wipe on poly to the outboard side. In some cases the frieze will need to be added as well. Just like hanging wallpaper, you must match the pattern. Making the port lid hinges... There are many advantages to making brass hinges from scratch. Mostly because the photoetch ones available are either shaped funny or two wide. They just never look right to my eye. So here is how I make them. You will need a brass strip 1/16" wide and 1/64" thick. K&S used to sell these. These wont be supplied by me so this is something you have to get. You can cut strips from a brass sheet if needed as well. Looking at the photo from top to bottom....some finished hinges on top Then step one....on the top of the lineup... The first thing I do is drill a hole through the end of the brass strip. Use a #74 drill bit. Then I round off the end around that hole which will become the bottom of the hinge. Step 2...Using a flat file, I file a tapered angle into the strap just above the drilled hole. You dont have to file too deep. Just enough to make a gradual taper in the hinge. Then I round off the end so it looks like a small circle on the bottom of the hinge around the hole. This step is also optional. You can go with a straight hinge that just has the bottom rounded. Its up to you. But I think these look nicer. Step 3...Measure the length of the hinge by using the plans. Mark this on the brass strip. Now its time to file a little tail into the top end of the hinge. This is easy enough. Using a flat needle file just file half of the width of the brass strip away. This resulting tail should be about 5/32" long. Step 4...Use a needle nose to roll up the tail to make a loop. Just like you do when you are making an eye bolt. Make the resulting hole in this pretty small so a 24 gauge wire can snugly fit into it....more on that later. But here is the real trick to this. Before you bend that tail into a loop, file the tail down even thinner. Just the tail. This makes it easier to get a nice small loop on the top of the hinge. It also keeps the finished hinge from looking to too bulky and chunky. Hope that makes sense. Thats it......repeat to make 20 hinges. But remember to make left and right pairs. Each lid gets a left and a right as you will see in the photos. It just means make the loop in the tail in the other direction on the top of the hinge. Blacken all of the hinges when you are done. Now in the photo above...with the port lid in position, You can glue the hinges to the lid. Try and keep them even. Try and keep them the same height etc. Then remove the lid as shown below. This is where you will drill a hole into the lid through the hole you made in each hinge. I had made the very tiny eyebolts with 28 gauge black wire. On these I added split rings that I made from 24 gauge black wire. I made the split rings by wrapping the wire around the shank of a #50 drill bit. Then I sawed them down the shank to part off nice split rings all to a very uniform size. These split rings were carefully inserted into the tiny eyebolts I made and were ready to glue into the holes in the bottom ends of the hinges. I was careful not to drill through the lid or push the tail of the eyebolts through the lids. I didnt want them breaking through to the inboard side. Lastly....create some tiny "L" shapes from 24 gauge wire which will be used to secure the lids in position. But before you place them into the hinge straps.....place the lid back in the port opening so you can drill the holes where those little "L's" will go. Drill the holes close to the hinge straps. Note the left and right hinge straps on the lid. This is done so the little "L's" are both on the inside. Then you lid will never fall off after you glue it on the hull. Here is a photo of the lids done on the starboard side. I will keep them closed until I am ready to add the cannon to avoid damaging them. Now to repeat this on the other side. Any questions....I dont think I forgot anything. That was a lot to write in one post!!!

Nice start Dave. That is a crazy way to hold that model steady.

Those were fun to make.....just take your time.....step by step!!!

Really nicely done....

Very nicely done. That will certainly pay off.

No lights except for small lanterns. But I honestly dont know much about it. see this topic about the ships barge

Boy that looks huge. Its looking really great.

More pics? You should be getting so close close now. I think you will miss working on it.

So how goes the research on the rigging details. Getting close to resuming work on her. Hope to see more of the model soon Pat.

Oh almost forgot to mention......once you start making those port lid hinges you will be grateful there werent lids for every port!!! 😀

Thats the way they did it on these frigates. In reality they only had a few on the gun deck. Never did they have port lids along the waist on the weather decks or for all the ports. What would be the point. Just a few of them aft and one or two at the bow. Although there are rare exceptions. Just look at all of those photos of the contemporary models I posted....include those for other frigates and larger rates in our gallery. The gun deck always had the port lids omitted mid ship. Although some larger ships had a few more than just four aft because they were longer. For 32's they mostly had about four lids aft and just the one or maybe two forward including the bridal port . With all of the others left open. For Winnie specifically.....its just the five. Here is yet another prime example. In this case two ports up front.....and three aft. A slightly older example in the 1750's. But a shorter smaller 32. Chuck

Nicely done!!

You do have to look extra hard for contemporary hull models that show guns. But they are out there. Here is my favorite. Its Amazon....not one instance of rope on this model. Again this isnt meant to discourage any of you guys from adding those details but I do want to explain why I am doing what I am with my model. Its really my best attempt at a homage to the old time builders. It was a widely accepted practice to not show a lick of rope unless the model was fully masted and rigged. Not even on the bumpkins shown at the bow or hammock cranes or ship's wheel.

Its really hard for me to tell with certainty. Best to wait for the parts to arrive and do a comparison to see if the printout is correct. Chuck.

You can do that of course but they will stay open without them. Another interesting discussion is the fact that many or even most contemporary models that are not fully rigged, are completely without any rigging at all. Not a single rope of any kind on any of them. Most dont even show the cannon not to mention that the guns are rarely rigged. But in present times, builders have a kitchen sink approach which is fine and I fully expect most to show fully rigged cannon...ships wheel...and even port lids. Having said that, I will not be showing the lids rigged. Its too much for my tastes. I am still on the fence with regard to rigging the cannon etc. I will post a few pictures that will show contemporary practice. Its also good to leave some small details up to each builder so they can make their own models more unique...so builders choice! But I am still on the fence if I want to follow the common contemporary practice......to me it just looks so nice and less cluttered. Although I will at least fully rig one cannon to show folks how its done and then if I decide otherwise....remove it all. I know it seems crazy. But as many of you are aware, for me....my Winnie model will be my best attempt to build a POB version "or homage" to the most beautiful Contemporary hull models. With the end goal being if set side by side any of them my model might hold up beside some of them shown below. The first examples are of Winnie.

Thats gonna be a while. I want to concentrate on getting Chapter 5 out first. Chapter 5 will be a shorter chapter so it shouldnt be too bad... Next, It will include finishing the port lids, adding the bulwark details, the cheeks at the bow, the stairs, possibly getting all the deck beams made and temporarily positioned. Then of course all the cannon on the gundeck. I remember what was involved when I made the guns for Cheerful......There are so many more on the Winnie (24 on the gundeck). Thats gonna take a while. There will be so many carriages to build, LOL. So I will prob offer them as a stand alone so as to not hold up getting Chapter 5 parts ready for delivery. Having flashbacks to when I did them on Cheerful. Chuck

Everything is looking really good Ryland. Almost there!!!!

Thank you Bruce... I must say its nice to work on the model with regularity now. I forgot what that feels like.

With the benches all done, its finally time to permanently glue those stern windows in position. This includes the acetate for the simulated glass. Just a tiny drop of glue was used to glue the wooden window frames in permanently. Then the acetate... For these as you might know, you cant use CA glue. It will fog up the acetate awful and look pretty bad. You want to use as little glue as possible or even no glue at all. We will be positioning window sills inboard to finish off the look. They will also hold your acetate in position. With the acetate in position I proceeded to cut lengths of 1/4" x 1/32" strips to fit between each window as a sill. This is tricky slow work but well worth the effort. It gives the whole stern bench area a clean look. You will cut these to shape just like we did for the transom cap. Just notch them out and leave a slight over hang. You can see my final piece yet to be positioned below. To complete this area sand the forward edge after all of these pieces are glued in place to even out the overhang. Then apply some wipe on poly. I am quite happy with the results even though most of this detail will be hard to see at all once the quarter deck is framed and planked. I also thought I would mention that the way I like to work is from the stern forward with all the deck details etc. Next I will start adding the ringbolts, cleats and other features to the bulwarks and get the cannon in position. But first there is something else that can be done and you guys dont even have to wait until chapter 5 comes out. You should be able to gather up all the materials you need. I am referring to the gun port lids. You will need five per side. There are many ways to make these of course. In this case I will be using brass strips blackened. But its easy metalwork. No soldering!!! I made one port lid today just to go through the process. I will detail how I am going to make these so you guys who are waiting, can do these ahead of receiving Chapter 5. They are working port lids. I will show the aft lid closed on my finished model but you guys can do otherwise. I will keep them all closed while I am working on other stuff to protect them. So the port lids are next to be made before I start the bulwark details.

Im not sure what accommodations you are referring to. I am sure there was something however. No I am going to leave the sliders off the model. I preferto just leave those Qgallery entries open.

Well that is a great start. Hopefully you will get those parts soon. Shipping is a mess right now just about everywhere. Welcome to the group.

Thanks Ryland. An O scale sleeping cat would be the perfect addition on top of that rudder trunk. Maybe I can find a decent one out there. Chuck

The benches are pretty simple as well. You just want to follow the curve of your transom. This might be different slightly from model to model. First, you add one of the bench sides to the side of the rudder trunk. See below. Note how the top aft point of the side is even with the break along the inboard counter. At the same time, assemble the front panel for the bench with the other side. Have it ready to glue into position. It will sit on top of the lower counter. But you can see how the front panel is actually up on the lower counter and not actually on deck. This is correct. The benches will not extend all the way to the bulwarks. keep in mind that the bottom of the front panel is beveled so it will fit snug along the forward edge of the bench on top of the curved counter. To finish it off, add the tops of the benches. Bevel the back edge so it fits the counter. It really finishes off the great cabin nicely. The bench tops overhang ever so slightly along the front edge and of course the ends as well.

That is looking fantastic....

It would have but I like to try new stuff. These are also a lot longer than on Cheerful. But in the end when done carefully and cleanly it looks the same. Just another way to do the same thing.